CupCakes and CrabLegs

Parma 8200 - Minneapolis

2012-02-21T19:14:00.001-06:00

Outside of it being the picture perfect night and in check of a great waiter who was nothing less than perfect, my little sister got terribly lost and that set the stage for the entire evening. I’ve never quite laughed so hard between the bites of what I would consider one of the best meals I’ve had in my hometown.

I loved the Osso Bucco special but the true star of the meal was a magnificent butterscotch panna cotta capped with a caramel sauce and a dollop of mascarpone.

This dessert was the best I have ever had anywhere. I savored every bite with my tiny, demitasse spoon while fighting off my family who were all into it for just one more taste.

Me, the ultimate queen of a split, finally found something that I was not into share.

I made this version at home the following Sunday and it was so delicious that I made it again the very next day. What surprised me is that I found two recipes – one easy and one hard. I chose the easy one and much to my surprise, it was almost like Parma’s.

Let set in the refrigerator for a good 8 hours.

BUTTERSCOTCH PANNA COTTA

8 ounces Brach's butterscotch candies, unwrapped, plus extra for garnish if desired

1 quart heavy cream, divided
1 envelope unflavored gelatin (about 1 tablespoon)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
For garnish: almond brittle, butterscotch sauce and/or mascarpone

In the bowl of a food processor, pulverize the candies until they break down into dust.

In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat 2 cups of the cream over medium low-to-medium heat until small bubbles form around the edge of the pot. Add the candy and cook until it melts, 7 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently.

Meanwhile, in a separate saucepan, bring the remaining 2 cups heavy cream to a simmer.

When the candy has completely melted, reduce the heat to low and sprinkle the gelatin over the flavored cream. Stir until the gelatin dissolves.

Slowly add the simmering cream to the candy mixture, whisking constantly. Bring to a simmer, then remove from heat. Let cool slightly.

Pour the mixture into individual serving dishes, cool, cover and refrigerate until firm, at least 4 hours.

Garnish each serving with blueberries and almond brittle, as benjy's does, or berries, whipped cream and a sprinkle of crushed candies.

Bon Appetit!

A Long, Slow Braise:

Since I could not find Veal Shanks at the market this week, I opted for rich, meaty oxtail.

I was fresh off my dinner from Parma 8200 and was in need of a fix for long, slow braised meat. I love cooking this way because once you pop everything in the oven, you’re off the hook. Just set your timer and coast.

Oxtails, a very inexpensive cut, were so delicious that this could become one of my Sunday winter standards.

Bon Appetit!

Oxtails

3 pounds oxtails

House Seasoning (salt, pepper and garlic powder)
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 can beef broth
1 cup red wine
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
6 cloves garlic, large ones cut in 1/2
1 teaspoon dried basil
1 teaspoon dried oregano

2 bay leaves

1 (8-ounce) can tomato suace

1/2 Vidalia onion, cut into 6 wedges
6 small new red potatoes, cut in 1/2
4 medium carrots, cut into 2-inch lengths
1 pot hot buttered rice

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Sprinkle the oxtails liberally with House Seasoning on both sides.

Coat the bottom of a heavy oven-proof Dutch oven with the olive oil. Once heated, add the oxtails and sear on all sides. Remove and set aside. Scrape up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the beef broth, red wine, Worcestershire sauce, and garlic cloves. Stir. Add basil, oregano, bay leaves, hot sauce, tomato sauce, and the reserved oxtails. Stir to combine all ingredients together.

Cover tightly, place in oven, and bake for 2 ½ to 3 hours.

Remove from oven and bring to a simmer on stove top. Add the sweet onion wedges, red potatoes, garlic and carrots to the pot. Cover and simmer until potatoes are almost tender, roughly 15 minutes.

Serve oxtails with the vegetables over hot buttered rice.

Wise Acre - Minneapolis

2012-02-21T19:00:00.001-06:00

Can you can taste the farm freshness? At 5401 Nicollet Ave South, Wise Acre is an adjacent stop from the Minneapolis airport.

Now that I’ve eaten at the restaurant, I want to visit the farm because the photos in their brochure were stunning. How great would it be to raise all of the food that you eat? I am game any time to try it.

An old garage converted to a restaurant, Wise Acre is supported by a 150 acre farm and the quality was apparent. The walls were a vertical garden and most of the plants come from the farm as well.

Owner and chef were super friendly and the menu is small.. it changes up every 6 weeks depending on what is in season. I know one thing for sure - if I lived in Minneapolis, I would be a regular.

Farm fed? I had to order something with an egg on it to really judge and this eye-catching grilled cheese, ham and egg sandwich fit the bill perfectly and was really delicious.

Sausages were home-made and the burger – well the bacon was complimented by a little spoonful of Brie and in this case the Brie made the burger (and I never thought I would ever give bacon a secondary role to anything).

Dessert: Homemade custard with toffee. Good to the last crunch and split it but honesty could have done an entire mini-bowl myself it was so good.

The highlight: Their Tangletown Garden store across the street. An hour in there and even I could get into gardening.

Bon Appetit!

Publican Quality Meats

2012-02-21T18:44:00.001-06:00

House-made sausage, charcuterie, aged prime beef, pork and other cured meats are the focus of this new market at 835 West Fulton Market.

Since I failed to bring my cold bag, there was no giving into the temptation of the lamb shank (the guy in front of me bought the last 4 anyway) and the Serrano Ham sitting on top of the main counter top with a tag reading "Jamon Iberico $200 l/b".

The space will also be used for private parties and cooking classes so I definitely want to check it out as there can never be too many quality cooking classes in Chicago.

I arrive at 10:30 AM to a packed house and by 11:00 (that “magic” hour at which they begin serving lunch and not a minute before) I ordered a “Better Than Gyros “sandwich which was stuffed with delicious pork belly and raita – an Indian yogurt sauce that was every bit as good as tzatziki. The homemade chips were delicious but in desperate need of a dose of salt.

Next time I’ll try their Albacore Muffaletta sandwich which was a wish -I –ordered favorite of just about everyone there.

There was a nice grocery area where I discovered Bill Kim’s Belly Fire hot sauce which is an Urban Belly classic… and the first time I had found it anywhere for sale.

My advice: Go back in a few weeks when they get their act together. I don’t mind crowds but this was half-organized chaos since two doors fed a steady and growing stream of hungry visitors…most of whom had never been there before because it was only open for a week.

Knowledgeable butchers and innovative selections will make this place a foodie favorite.

Bon Appetit!

The Cheesecake Factory

2012-02-21T18:37:00.002-06:00

Into sisters but not chain restaurants… so I thought.

I met my four sisters for brunch in Minneapolis and of the 5 items we tried, every one of them was high-quality and we had a variety.

Even the guacamole egg rolls – which I thought would be typical bar food - were wonderful.

Guacamole Egg Rolls

Dipping sauce:

3-4 t white vinegar
1 t balsamic vinegar
1/2 t tamarind pulp
1/2 c honey
1 pinch powdered saffron
1/2 c chopped cashews
2/3 c fresh cilantro
2 garlic cloves
2 green onions
1 T granulated sugar
1 t ground black pepper
1 t ground cumin
1/4 c olive oil

Egg Rolls:

1 large avocado, peeled, pitted, & diced
1 T minced red onion
2 T sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil, chopped
1/2 t fresh cilantro, chopped
1 pinch salt
3 egg roll wraps
1 egg, beaten

Stir together vinegars, tamarind, honey, and saffron in a microwave safe bowl, and microwave for 1 minute. Stir until tamarind is dissolved. In a blender, puree tamarind mixture, cashews, 2/3 c cilantro, garlic, onions, sugar, pepper, and cumin. Pour mixture into a bowl and stir in oil. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Gently stir together avocado, tomatoes, onion, 1/2 t cilantro, and salt. Distribute filling evenly onto center of each egg roll wrapper. Position a wrapper so that a corner is pointing toward you; fold the bottom corner up, 1/4 of the way over the filling. Brush remaining corners and edges of the wrapper with egg, roll up from side to side, fold top corner over all and press to seal.

Repeat with remaining wrappers. Continue by deep-frying the egg rolls in 375 degree oil for 3-4 minutes, until golden brown.

Conclusion: This is one chain restaurant I would fearlessly try again… if for nothing else a piece of the Cheesecake.

And speaking of desserts…

This little dessert made our Valentine’s dinner. I’m not a mainstream red velet fan but this was worth exploring again.

Authentic English Muffins: A Recipe To Work On

2012-02-21T18:07:00.001-06:00

I have been looking for a good English muffin recipe for a long time.

I love Jim Lahey’s no-knead cookbook, My Bread, where he researched old Italian bread making and developing this sticky dough, overnight rising bread with awesome flavor.

In fact, I’m hooked and will never make anything but overnight bread.

This muffin recipe comes from Sheryl Canter and I made it for brunch. It had the perfect taste but it was also slightly doughy so it needs a little work.

Recipe Challenge: She is on to something here with the overnight proofing though. It just needs a little fine-tuning.

Let me know when you get it perfect and I'll be over for breakfast!

Bon Appetit!

This recipe makes six muffins.

1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp sugar or honey
1 packet (2¼ tsp) dry yeast
2 cups flour
½ tsp salt

Heat the milk to simmering, then drop in the butter and the sugar or honey. Stir so they melt and combine, and let the mixture cool. When it’s lukewarm, sprinkle in the yeast, stir, and let it sit for 10 minutes until bubbly. Don’t use an aluminum bowl because that can interfere with the yeast. Glass is best.

While that’s happening, measure out the flour and salt and mix together well. When the yeast mixture is bubbly, add the flour and beat vigorously for a couple minutes. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it sit on the counter (not in the refrigerator) overnight. It will overproof – rise and collapse. This is what creates the English muffin’s characteristic sourdough taste and large bubbles.

In the morning, scrape the sides of the bowl with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula and remix a little. Then use a spatula and spoon to drop muffin-size globs into a small bowl of cornmeal, as pictured in the previous section. Don’t try to handle the dough – it’s too sticky. Lift each muffin from the cornmeal with a slotted spatula, shake off the excess, and place in an ungreased skillet.

When the skillet is full, cover it (with a glass top, if you have one), and let the muffins rise for 30 minutes. They won’t rise much at this point because all the sugar has been eaten by the yeast, but they’ll puff up a little more when they start to cook. Remove the lid before cooking.

Set your stove’s burner to medium-low. If it’s electric, let the burner preheat. If you have an electric skillet, you’ll have to let the muffins rise somewhere else so you can preheat it. I’ve read that electric skillets should be set to 300°F, but I don’t have one so I can’t verify that. I used a cast iron pan and set the burner to medium-low.

Warning: don’t set the temperature too high. The muffins have to cook slowly or the inside will be doughy while the outside is burned. Don’t crank up the heat because it’s not sizzling. It’s not supposed to sizzle. Just because it’s not making any noise doesn’t mean it’s not doing anything. It’s cooking.

The muffins can take anywhere from 10 to 20 minutes per side, depending on how high you set the skillet temperature. Turn them over when the first side is browned.

When the second side is browned, remove the muffins to a cooling rack and let them cool completely. If you don’t let them cool, they will be doughy inside. Also, they taste best if they are fully cooled and then toasted. Split them for toasting by pulling them apart with your fingers, rather than cutting with a knife. This maximizes the nooks and crannies that are so great for holding butter and jam.

English muffins are a quick and easy breakfast because they were designed to be quick and easy. The batter is made the night before, and no rolling is required. You mix everything together, go to sleep, then cook them up in the morning.

Overproofing is what gives the characteristic taste and texture – no vinegar or baking soda required.

Cooking Ribs Indoors

2012-02-21T17:54:00.001-06:00

My mom cooked the best BBQ ribs and always made them indoors.

Here is yet another way to cook ribs inside - using a slow cooker and the broiler - and look how “outdoor grilled” they look just by putting them under the broiler for a short time to brown.

Bon Appetit!

Easy Winter BBQ Ribs

3 tablespoons sweet paprika (I used a little less)
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper (I used a bit more)
Salt and pepper
6 pounds pork baby back ribs
3 cups barbecue sauce (Homemade if you have time)
Vegetable oil spray

Mix paprika, sugar, cayenne, 1 tablespoon salt and 1 tablespoon pepper together, then rub mixture evenly over ribs. Arrange ribs upright in slow cooker, with meaty sides facing outward. Pour barbecue sauce over ribs, cover, and cook until ribs are tender, 6 to 8 hours on low.

Position oven rack 10 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Place wire rack in aluminum foil-lined rimmed baking sheet and coat with vegetable oil spray. Carefully transfer ribs, meaty side down, to prepared baking sheet and tent with foil. Let braising liquid settle for 5 minutes, then remove fat from surface using large spoon.

Strain braising liquid into medium saucepan and simmer until thickened and measures 2 cups, 15 to 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Brush ribs with some sauce and broil until ribs start to brown, 2 to 4 minutes. Flip ribs over, brush with more sauce, and continue to broil until ribs are well browned and sticky, 9 to 12 minutes longer, brushing with additional sauce every few minutes.

Transfer ribs to cutting board with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. Serve with remaining sauce.

Cajun Chicken

2012-02-21T17:42:00.000-06:00

This Cajun chicken was great and an easy fix for a special meal when you have a houseful of guests.
I’ve used both whole peeled tomatoes and fresh romas and no matter how many times I change this up, I still go back to this basic recipe.

Bon Appetit!

Cajun Chicken Parmesan

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus 3 tablespoons

1 medium onion, chopped
2 or 3 garlic cloves, minced
2 bay leaves
1/2 bunch basil leaves
2 (28 ounce) cans whole peeled tomatoes or fresh roma tomatoes
Pinch of sugar
Salt and black pepper
4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts
1/2 cup all purpose flour
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon water
1/2 cup dried bread crumbs
Mozzarella cheese
Freshly grated parmesan
1 pound pasta, cooked

Coat a saute pan with olive oil and place over medium heat

When oil gets hazy, add the onions, garlic and bay leaves; cook and stir for 5 minutes until fragrant and soft. Add the basil and tomatoes, cook and stir until the liquid is cooked down and the sauce is thick, approximately 20 minutes. Then season with sugar, salt and pepper
Lower the heat, cover and keep warm.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Get the ingredients together for the chicken:

Put the chicken breasts in a zip lock bag and pound the chicken breasts with a flat meat mallet until they are 1/2 inch thick. Put the flour in a shallow platter and season with a fair amount of salt and pepper; mix with a fork to distribute evenly. In a wide bowl, combine the eggs and water, beat until frothy.Put the bread crumbs on a plate, season with salt and pepper. Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil over medium high heat in a large oven proof skillet.
Lightly dredge both sides of the chicken in the seasoned flour, then dip them in eggs to coat completely, letting the excess drip off, then dredge in the bread crumbs. When the oil is hot, add the chicken and fry for 4 minutes on each side until golden and crusty, turning once.

Ladle tomato sauce over the chicken, sprinkle with cheese.

Bake the chicken for 15 minutes or until the cheese is bubbly and serve hot with spaghetti.

Baking Bacon

2012-02-21T17:32:00.001-06:00

My meat market, the Daily Grind makes the best homemade bacon.

I like to bake it as it sheds the grease and with Rick’s special flavoring, it comes out picture perfect every time. It’s so much easier to line a pan with foil and bake it while you are dealing with everything else.

I like it plain with a side of eggs but my all time favorite? No matter what season – a BLT!

Bon Appetit!

Bacon
Cookie sheet – with sides – do not use a flat cookie sheet
Foil

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Line a cookie sheet with foil, you can leave the foil a little crinkled so the grease doing pool under the bacon. Do not use a flat cookie sheet, use a bar pan.

Lay out bacon one strip at a time on the cookie sheet. The bacon should not touch. You can leave about a quarter inch between of space between each slice of bacon.

Place cookie sheet with bacon into the oven and bake for 15-17 minutes.

When the bacon is browned and crisp drain on paper towels.

Chicago's Best Brunch Dishes

2012-02-08T21:14:00.003-06:00

It’s no secret that I am a huge fan of Saturday Brunch. Given my choice of breakfast, lunch or dinner, I will choose breakfast every time.

These 10 restaurants get my vote for a Saturday’s best because there was one item that stuck in my mind and prompts me to come back for Round II.

2 Sparrows – Glazed Doughnuts

These were so good I immediately went home and tried to duplicate the recipe. No such luck. One-of-a-kind excellence.

553 W Diversey

Big Jones – Popovers

Big Jones Benedict had house cured and smoked ham simmered in Kilgus Farmstead cream, poached eggs and Potatoes O'Brien but instead of having it on a biscuit I opted for the popover. The popover made the dish.

5347 N Clark

Chicago Q – Southern Hash browns

I judge a place by the way they cook their hash brown potatoes and these were the best southern fries I’ve ever had. A second nod goes to the smoked chicken in the Egg’s Benedict. And watch out...homemade chips and pickles will fill you up.

1160 N Dearborn

Davanti Enoteca - Pizza della Fattoria

A Farmed Egg+Pork Belly+Potato+Scallions+Asiago+béchamel. Ask anyone who has tried this and they will tell you it’s simply the best pizza in Chicago.

1359 W Taylor

Chicago scores double on this one. Great Hot Chocolate is hard to find and I had a cup at not just one but two celebrated restaurants.

Mindy’s Hot Chocolate – The Black and Tan

1/3 hot fudge and 2/3 medium hot chocolate

A plus for the homemade marshmallows.

1747 North Damen

XOCO – Mexico City Thick Hot Chocolate.

Extra points for bean-to-bar and the amazing aroma of roasting cacao

449 N Clark

Lula – English Muffins

I found out at Lula’s that a super-thin English muffin makes the Eggs Benedict.

2537 N Kenzie

Mercat a la Planxa – Truffle Oil

Another Egg’s Benedict with huge flavor and the secret is all in the truffle oil.

638 South Michigan

Perennial Virant – Homeboy Potatoes

Tiny, crispy and with a topping of Brunkow cheese curds.

1800 N Lincoln Avenue

Sola – Huevos Benedictos

Feeling a little under the weather from the night before? Nothing that eggs, cornbread and a little chorizo wouldn’t cure.

3868 N Lincoln Avenue

Runner Up: The walk up that every one lines up for on Saturday AM - The Doughnut Vault.

401 1/2 N Franklin.

Bon Appetit!

Pasteur...A French Vietnamese Classic

2012-02-08T20:56:00.000-06:00

I love Vietnamese food. In fact it’s my favorite cuisine and Pasteur (5525 N Broadway) has skillfully recreated some of the authentic Vietnamese classics.

Interestingly, they do not do fusion. Instead they happen to have some classic French dishes on the menu too so you can mix your meal like I did.

With fish sauce, soy paste, fresh herbs and vegetables, Vietnamese is one of the healthiest cuisines in the world. The meats and vegetables are briefly cooked and when you throw in a bit of lemongrass, mint, coriander and Thai basil, you’ve got the most aromatic cuisine around. I also love the colorful, spicy and flavorful condiments such as the Nuoc Mam.

Dishes such as phở, bún riêu, bánh cuốn are classic in the Vietnamese kitchen as well as central Vietnam’s bún bò Huế and bánh xèo.

Central Vietnam cooks up some of the spiciest food in the country so I need to find more recipes from this region as I love spice.

Outside influences?

Vietnamese food has a powerful vegetarian tradition influenced by Buddhist ideals. Thus all the veggies floating in my soup today.

The French introduced baguettes which were stuffed with Vietnamese meat and pickled vegetables to become the banh mi, the most profitable French-Vietnamese culinary merger ever and a popular street food in Vietnam.

India’s inspiration lead to the adoption of curry in Vietnamese cuisine and that is one dish that I have yet to wrap my arms around but I am trying.

The service at Pasteur is typically French where they take time to introduce each course and you take the time to appreciate each and every bite.

I had Vegetarian egg rolls served with lettuce, pickled vegetables and Nuoc Mam. followed by Tamarind Shimp soup. The soup was delicious, filled with a ton of fresh vegetables and the pineapple gave it a full and rich flavor. In fact, I think that’s the first time I’ve had pineapple as an ingredient in my soup.

My main course was Confit Duck Legs with cauliflower puree, and a Grand Marnier and orange reduction. The duck was perfectly cooked and to my surprise, the side - the cauliflower -was my favorite dish of the meal.

So who is the French in this interesting equation?

Eric Aubriot was born in Paris, has been twice nominated for the James Beard Rising Star award and I should have guessed is a product of Carlos in Highland Park.

Come to think of it, just about every great French chef has Carlos on his resume somewhere.

Bon Appetit!

Honey Nut Cheerio Infused Rum

2012-02-08T20:41:00.003-06:00

My absolute favorite drink is a Mai Tai.

Blended correctly (no store bought mix) with fresh ingredients, it is a delicious favorite of just about everyone I make them for.

This is not just a summer drink. I make them up year round.

Speaking of Mai Tai’s… my new batch of Honey Nut Cheerio Infused Rum make great Mini Mai Tai’s and I always like to try new recipes.

1 ½ oz Honey Nut Cheerio infused rum
1/2 oz creme de almond
1/2 oz triple sec
sweet and sour mix
pineapple juice

Any way you mix this one up, one sip and you'll be ready to pack your bags and go on a cruise.

Remember the original Trader Vic’s recipes (and they are still the best) have no juice in them and TV swears by no juice.

I’ve tried for years now to decide which one I like the best. You tell me.

Guess I’ll have to try a few more and let you know but don’t anticipate an answer any time soon. I'm on Mai Tai time.

Bon Appetit!

1944 Original Formula

2 ounces of 17-year old J. Wray & Nephew Rum over shaved ice.
Add juice from one fresh lime.
1/2 ounce Holland DeKuyper Orange Curacao.
1/4 ounce Trader Vic's Rock Candy Syrup.
1/2 ounce French Garier Orgeat Syrup
Shake vigorously.
Add a sprig of fresh mint

1997 "Old Way" Mai Tai Formula

1 ounce Fine Jamaican Rum (15 or 8 year old)

1 ounce Martinique Rum (St. James)
1/2 ounce Orange Curacao
1/2 ounce Orgeat Syrup
Juice from one fresh lime (about 3/4 ounce)
Mix and serve as in the Original Formula

My New Addiction?

2012-02-08T19:54:00.001-06:00

World market's Limoncillino.

The unique little glass is from Art Effect at 934 West Armitage. You’ll find so many things here that you don’t find any place else in Chicago.

I had to hold back after purchasing three adorable glasses including this tiny wine glass which is a perfect start for a healthy New Year.

Bon Appetit!

Creating A Signature Dish

2012-02-08T19:44:00.000-06:00

The secret of many successful cooks is not that they are experts at everything. It’s that they have learned to do one or two things really well. They have a signature dish.

The best way to create one is trial and error. I know because most of my signature dishes were errors in the beginning…one after another. Oft times I was ready to give it up but then I had another idea to substitute an ingredient or cooking method. With time, my efforts were rewarded but it did take a lot of testing and experimentation to get there.

Remember, cooking is science…which reminds me that I really need to spring for a copy of Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking. It’s down to $468.37 from $625.00 on Amazon. I know. Somehow it’s hard to part with that much cash.

As I continue to think about it you continue to cook.

First, find a recipe that you love, begin to experiment with it until you get it perfect. Yes perfect. Make it over and over again until you can do it in your sleep. You know the old saying: Practice makes perfect? Like anything it does.

Don’t forget to ask for feedback from everyone you cook it for because they feed you your best ideas on how to improve it.

Also make sure that you keep the ingredients on hand so if you get an inspiration in the middle of the night, you have everything you need to start cooking it at 3 AM.

Breakfast anyone?

Bon Appetit!

Marc Burger

2012-02-08T19:02:00.000-06:00

Tucked into a sunny corner on the 7^th floor of Macy’s food court is Marc Burger. The Marc is Marcus Samuelsson, and Marc Burger is his farm to table, fresh ingredient burger joint.

I ordered the Marc Burger with the fried egg and the steak sauce and it was good but not sure it was worth the $12 price tag. Next time I will order his award winning BBQ Burger that was being devoured at the table next door.

Doesn’t that always happen? You look over and wish you had ordered what the guy next door is eating.

Great Side kick: The flavored ketchup.

French fries were interestingly seasoned as was the chocolate shake... they made theirs with custard instead of ice cream.

I was certain when the waitress handed me a frequent dining card, I looked like I would be coming back.

Her first clue: Not a thing left on my plate…or the plate next door.

Bon Appetit!

Making A Perfect Bloody Mary

2012-02-08T18:57:00.000-06:00

tomato juice - homemade lemon or lime juice
horseradish
Worcestershire and Tabasco
black pepper
celery salt
celery
lemon wedge

How did my friend the food scientist describe these ingredients that are basic to a bloody mary? “They have a central flavor volatile, a flavor non-volatile for a definite taste and an aroma that fades out for a perfect ending.”

Enough about science because most of my friends describe this combination as essential to a perfect Bloody Mary.

You can make them visually interesting by garnishing with just about anything including pickled brussels sprouts, turnips, green beans, radishes, pickles, olives or caper berries.

I’ve even heard of a green bloody made with tomatillos, lime, cilantro, pineapple and tequila and another with pureed yellow heirloom tomatoes and tomato-infused vodka. Whatever way you mix it, put on your signature touch and people will remember.

Here are some things to remember:

Use Only The Best Ingredients

Fresh cut lemons and limes, beautiful, plump fresh tomatoes, shaved fresh horseradish. Honestly, everything needs to be fresh because the freshest ingredients produce the strongest bouquet and taste.

Make Tiny Drinks

The blend of ingredients is very unbalanced chemically and starts to taste different within a half hour after it is made. Make tiny drinks to get the best flavor

Make A Fresh Mix

If I did one thing to improve the quality if a bloody mary, it would be a fresh mix. Best time to do this is during framers market when tomatoes are at their prime.

Use homemade infused vodka

The robust, spicy flavor of a Bloody Mary overpowers the flavor of the vodka, so don't use a premium vodka but a homemade infused vodka.

I’ve tried everything from lemon to tomato infused vodka but I like this pepper infused which really gives the bloody a kick.

Pepper Vodka

1 serrano chile, stemmed, seeded, and quartered lengthwise
1 jalapeno chile, stemmed, seeded, and quartered lengthwise
1 red habanero chilie, stemmed, seeded, and quartered lengthwise
One 750-ml bottle good-quality vodka

Place the chiles in a large glass container, add the vodka, and cap.

Let stand at room temperature for 48 hours, shaking once or twice a day.

Infuse for a few days and taste daily until it is perfect. Don’t allow it to infuse longer than 2 weeks, or the vodka will have a bitter flavor.

Strain the infused vodka. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Bon Appetit!

Fried Green Tomatoes

2012-02-08T18:48:00.000-06:00

I love fried green tomatoes especially on Sunday morning when neighbors drop over because they know I’m frying them up. I paired them today with poached eggs and day old Brioche.

You’ll love this recipe with the flour and cornmeal mix. Really gives the crust a delicious crunch.

Bon Appetit!

Fried Green Tomatoes

1 large egg, beaten

½ cup buttermilk
½ cup self-rising cornmeal mix
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon pepper
½ cup all-purpose flour
3 medium-size, firm green tomatoes, cut into 1/3-inch-thick slices (about 1 1/4 lb.)
Vegetable oil

Whisk together egg and buttermilk. Combine cornmeal mix, salt, pepper, and 1/4 cup flour in a shallow dish. Dredge tomato slices in remaining 1/4 cup flour; dip in egg mixture, and dredge in cornmeal mixture.

Pour oil to a depth of 1/2 inch in a large cast-iron skillet; heat to 375° over medium-high heat. Drop tomatoes, in batches, into hot oil, and cook 2 minutes on each side or until golden. Drain on paper towels. Sprinkle hot tomatoes with salt to taste.

Skirt Steak...Revisted

2012-02-08T18:37:00.000-06:00

How many people have told you that a skirt steak needs marinating to be tender? I did not marinate this steak which is against every rule in my food preparation memory. I was really hesitant to use this recipe but it came out absolutely perfect and was so enjoyable.

The recipe calls for cooking 2 minutes per side. I probably cooked it 4 minutes on each side as this skirt was a little thicker than most.

I like the Chimichurri sauce – a tasteful addition with the olive oil which is what I usually marinate it in.

What I really liked about this recipe is that the true flavor of the meat came out . Wow – is this what skirt steak tastes like? I simply rubbed the meat down with some sea salt and fresh ground pepper before putting it on a very hot grill.

Bon Appetit!

Skirt Steak With Chimichurri Sauce

2 cups chopped parsley

2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
6 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons minced garlic
2 teaspoons crushed red pepper
Salt and freshly ground pepper
4 pounds skirt steak

Light a grill. In a bowl, mix the parsley, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and crushed red pepper; season with salt and pepper.

Season the skirt steak with salt and pepper and grill over a hot fire until the meat is charred on the outside and rare within, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a carving board and let rest for 5 minutes. Thinly slice the steak across the grain.

Serve right away, passing the chimichurri sauce at the table.

BopNGrill's Korean Dinner

2012-02-08T18:26:00.001-06:00

“The Consulate General of the Republic of Korea in Chicago and Chef William Song cordially invite you to a Korean Cuisine tasting event featuring classic Korean street foods as well some never-before-tasted fusion dishes created especially for this event.

All we ask in return are your honest opinions and for you to enjoy the food and company.”

I get a lot of invitations to eat out. One of my favorite invites is for Korean food so when I got this invitation and found I was booked, I sent my young friend Andrew who loves to cook and eat Korean food. He cooks it often when he is not at his mom’s house devouring authentic Filipino.

Here are Andrew’s animated notes from the night…

Susan from Cupcakes and Crablegs was generous enough to pass on her tickets to bopNgrill's tasting event.

Traditionally, I am not one for fusion food, as it tends to mute the flavors of either cuisine. However, I came to really appreciate Chef Will's seamless integration of traditional Korean elements into classic American food.

Burgers, fries, risotto, and cocktails were all given a very refreshing Korean flair; traditional Korean dishes were also treated to some unexpected American flavors as well.

Upon entering bopNgrill's new restaurant location, Kristin was there to greet me and direct me to the cocktail table. Score! There were 2 kinds to choose from, a traditional rice wine, and a cocktail mixed with a pomegranate blend and vinegar.

We sat down to three different dipping sauces, gojujang, saamjang, and a sesame soy mix.

The first dish we were brought was a traditional duck rice cake, wrapped in bacon and interspersed with fish cake in bamboo skewers…they were fresh out of the kitchen; the crispy salty bacon played well with the soft textures of the cakes.

Next, we had a preparation of bulgogi, a garlic, soy marinated beef, sliced thinly. Traditionally you would use a sweet element like pear juice in the marinade, but this was stuffed inside horizontally cut eggroll wrappers and slathered with Velveeta. Wow.

After the bulgogi, we had a hefty crab cake. The exterior was nice and flaky, and had a drizzle of kimchi tartar on top. This was a fine example of how a slight Korean touch really gave a traditionally American dish an unexpected Asian element.

Guess what, finished this one as well.

We had a few moments to contemplate how full we were getting, before we were brought Styrofoam clamshells with toothpicks protruding from them. I wonder what could be inside?

Aah yes, Chef Wills signature kimchi burger and fries. A perfectly done slider, with a kimchi topping and cheese.

This blows your standard texmex bar and grill faire out of the ocean. A salvo of kimchi fries, also greased with cheese ensured we would get 3x our recommended calorie intake for the day but I didn’t care. This was a feast.

As a departure from the dishes we enjoyed, we were treated to juk ( rice porridge) but prepared as a risotto. Kimchi and an orchid flower sat atop.

This was a very refreshing presentation of the porridge. The texture was amazing.

At this point I questioned the strength of my stomach. I sat down to a presentation of greens and homemade kimchi and wondered what this was all about?

I snacked on some mild jalapeno slices and suddenly, a huge slab of pork shoulder was placed in front of us. The size suggested the pigs that graciously donated themselves for our high-living were upwards of 275lbs.

They were cooked slow and low, using a dry rub of salt pepper and brown sugar. Roasted heads of garlic were at the perimeter of the presentation. Will said the shoulder was uncovered the last few moments to build an appreciable crust.

Whatever, enough with the scientific banter, LETS EAT!

Chinese New Year's: Before The Parade

2012-01-31T22:02:00.002-06:00

Sourcing Global Ingredients: McCormick’s 2012 Flavor Pairings

2012-01-31T21:15:00.001-06:00

When the 2012 McCormick’s Flavor Pairings came out, I knew that I was going to be on the hunt for ingredients (one of my favorite things to do) because McCormick created it’s very first global forecast.

Get your passport out and pack your bags because this forecast will take you on a genuine flavor journey.

A worldwide group of food professionals, including McCormick For Chef’s Executive Chef Kevan Vetter, joined forces to predict what global food trends will influence your food choices for years to come.

We’ll have to track these back but so far Kevan’s crystal ball has been ever so accurate, especially on things like Chipotle and Cocktail-Inspired Meals.

I must admit that some of the ingredients were not easy to find – even in Chicago- but there are numerous internet markets now where you can purchase just about anything. You will however not have half the fun that I did looking for some of the items like Korean Pepper Paste and Red Tea.

It was an outing in the snow and cold to find Korean Pepper Paste only to find it later that same day in my own back yard (Fresh Market – Lake Forest). But the trip to Argyle renewed some of my old connections with the best Asian markets in the city so the trek was well worth fighting the elements to find it.

I love sourcing ingredients because it’s always an adventure. More often than not, I finish the day with a mixed bag of new and interesting friends and an education that I could not have possibly learned in a book or the classroom.

When I looked at the list this year, the combinations are surprising. Who would ever pair red pepper and grapefruit but when I tried it, I loved the exciting turn of flavor.

These pairings were well worth the wait and here are the groupings for 2012.

Cumin with Sofrito

Authentic Hispanic Foundational Flavors

Did you know that Cumin is the second most popular spice in the world after black pepper? Even that surprised me.

Sofrito? Sofrito is a combination of ingredients which have been cut in very small pieces and slowly sauteed in cooking oil or bacon grease for 30 minutes.

People enjoy green sofrito but I prefer mine tomato based. What I really love about Sofrito is that it is made with only the freshest ingredients. Mainly onions, garlic, and green bell peppers… similar combinations of vegetables are known as the holy trinity in Creole cooking, refogado in Portuguese, soffritto in Italian, suppengrün (soup greens) in Germany and włoszczyzna in Poland.

No matter what you call it, it is the source of all flavor for many dishes and cumin adds an interesting mix to the pot.

Korean Pepper Paste with Sesame, Asian Pear and Garlic

BBQ With A Global Twist

Korean Pepper Paste?

Gochujang: a flavorful and pungent fermented Korean flavoring made from red chili, rice, fermented soybeans and salt.

Exploring this flavor combination is going to be fascinating particularly when it comes to firing up the BBQ.

Stay tuned for a lot of wonderful recipes from this match. One of my favorites.

Dill with Mint, Melon and Cucumber

The Ultimate Refresher

I’ve never been a huge fan of dill but balancing it with mint, melon and cucumber, well… this combination becomes the ultimate refresher for sure.

Even a small pile of melon and cucumber topped with these two spices was a clean approach to the start of any meal.

The possibilities are endless and don’t think this is just a summer union. A lot more markets are bringing in these celebrated ingredients… even in the middle of winter.

Meyers Lemon with Lemon Thyme, Limoncello and Lemon Peel

The Ultimate Lemon

Pucker up because all of you who love lemon well… this is your pairing.

I never thought about bringing in so many lemon flavors at once but I am now an aficionado of all things lemon.

ING’s restaurant inspired me to try the honey nut cheerios infused rum with these ingredients so look for the result on my blog in the next few weeks.

Eggplant With Honey and Harissa

Worldly Veggie With Sweet Heat

I didn’t have a clue what Harissa was before these pairings were published.

Since Mourad Lahlou is one of my favorite Moroccan chefs it is fascinating to see what he does with Harissa. Beef cheeks with Carrot Jam and a Harissa emulsion. Dungeness crab roasted in Meyer Lemon Harissa Butter. Harissa is now ever-present on Moroccan tables, almost like ketchup.

Stay tuned because I really loved the well-balanced pairing of Harissa and Honey.

Squash With Red Curry and Pancetta

Versatile Veggie With A Touch Of Thai

Mention Pancetta and I get excited. I use to think that bacon made everything taste better until I tried Pancetta.

This combination of squash (which I have never particularly loved) and Red Curry (which has also not been one of my favorites) has made me a believer in the power of Pancetta.

Ginger and Coconut

Warm Spice Joins Tropical Favorite

No surprise that the flavors I loved when I lived in Hawaii made the list.

I am such a fan of ginger in fact, consumed as a delicacy, medicine and spice that I grate it on just about everything…including sorbet.

Vanilla With Butter

Pure Essentials For Real Goodness

OK – so now we get down to the basics. Butter and Vanilla.

Butter is the source of everything delicious. Sorry, I believe that Julia was right… you just can’t find a substitute for butter no matter how hard you try.

Vanilla: One of Mc’Cormick’s core ingredients from day one. Who sells more vanilla than McCormick?

Together these two classics are the foundation of a lot of memorable recipes.

Doesn’t it always go back to the basics?

Red Tea With Cinnamon and Plum

Better-for-You Beverage Meets Fruit And Spice

It took me forever to find red tea. Only logical that instead of looking at the grocery, I would find it at Argo Tea, who sold it to me by the ounce.

Did you know that red tea is really black tea, made from the completely oxidized bud leaves of Camellia sinensis?

Better ask the tea specialist at Argo because there are so many varieties out there now you need an expert to keep up with an ever changing marketplace.

Have to admit that the combination of the red tea with the Cinnamon (Saigon of course) and Plum had me dreaming up what I could do next with one of the most interesting groupings on the list.

I also love the winter plums I found in the market…beautiful, deep, dark red and so delicious.

Grapefruit With Red Pepper

A New Take On Lemon Pepper

Ok – so this was easy but Red Pepper and Grapefruit?

I didn’t think I would like the idea but once I took a bite, it was so easy to jump into these flavors.

This pairing will produce a lot of inspiring combinations including a non-stop assortment of salads.

Sweet Soy With Tamarind and Black Pepper

Steak Sauce With An Asian Flavor

These are my ingredients. From steak sauce to marinates and used in a variety of cuisines, Tamarind is also great for medicinal purposes and I would be one to favor a little black pepper to do the trick.

Like celery, onion and green pepper is to New Orleans cooking, these three are the holy trinity of BBQ.

Blueberry With Cardamom and Corn Masa

From Everyday to Extraordinary

OK – so I existed on Corn Masa for years when I lived in Mexico.

Corn Masa, which is a staple ingredient in Latin American foods such as corn tortillas and tamales, is also a essential ingredient in the new American kitchen.

Tell me that Corn Masa Pancakes with Blueberries and Cardamom isn’t a breakfast that gets you thinking about what else to do with these ingredients?

Bon Appetit and look for recipes with these great pairings in the months ahead.

ING: The Culinary Physics of Honey Nut Cheerios

2012-01-31T20:50:00.002-06:00

ING (imagining new gastronomy), the brainchild of Chef Homaro Cantu, unites Asian comfort with the genius of a “to the right” molecular gastronomy. No matter what you call it, the focus is presentation. The results: Alchemy… pure and simple.

The 2006 Iron Chef winner, Cantu makes use of both liquid nitrogen and lasers to construct his dishes. What amazed me the most was that his printed food strip -edible paper- helps chemotherapy patients taste again.

My father was an inventor so it was no revelation that Cantu holds six patents with 16 or more pending.

What do I love about inventors? They are the ultimate risk takers.

On a quick tour of the kitchen, I was amazed at how small it was. One of the chefs joked that he had to document -on his resume- that he was skinny enough to cook there. That surprised me too. Not an “over fed” chef in the bunch. It was either the recently placed pool table to the south of the kitchen for exercise or a recurrent dose of liquid nitrogen.

The 6 course menu was launched on an oragami cube. My first clue that something unusual was about to happen. Separating the cube was almost as complex as the dinner. You had to do both slowly and methodically in order for the magic to break free.

So, let’s get back to the Culinary Physics of Honey Nut Cheerios?

Yes, this General Mills cereal is not just for breakfast anymore. The combination of the rum, honey, lemon and frangelico was stunning. In fact, every wine, beer and drink selection was so skillfully paired it was an essential part of the entire food experience.

So what is the secret of the rum? Mix a cup of Honey Nut Cheerios with 12 ounces of rum. Infuse overnight. Strain. Simple as that.

My favorite food? A cheese ball with triple cream, fruit cake cracker (a fruit cake with Gran Marnier and dehydrated) in a mulled wine reduction.

Salud to the chef who made a mind-boggling chain of sweet potatoes and then smothered it in vanilla parsnip, balsamic, truffle and hazelnut.

My least favorite dish: The Turducken was like a slice of deli meat but the crispy fried brussel sprouts…they were amazing.

The wines – the German Rebenhof, Urziger Wurzgarten, Riesling Kabinett Mosel 2009, the Picket Fence Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2009 and the Italian Colterenzio Gewurtztraminer, alto-Adige 2010 were magnificent as was a surprising Anderson Valley Brewing Company Winter Solstice ale that was paired with a Baozi venison, caramelized onions, carrot and cherry.

We also experienced several rounds of Cantu’s famous miracle berries -- a West African fruit that trips up your taste buds by blocking bitter and sour tastes. When you eat one, it makes everything sour taste sweet and for me, who loves sweet, this was the ultimate encounter.

I don’t often describe service as flawless but ING’s was. All of the waiters were well-informed and no matter how many questions I threw out at them, there wasn’t one who could not deliver an immediate answer. Impressive! The service component is as essential to the complete experience as the food and drink so how lucky we were to be having the best of all three. And the price point? $75 a head was a bargain for the unbelievable quality and quantity of food.

If I had my choice of Chicago restaurants for the overall experience, ING’s would be it.

Bon Appetit and check out the Valentine’s Day special.

Now, if only I could find a valentine.

Prairie Joe's

2012-01-28T06:06:00.000-06:00

At 1921 Central Street in Evanston, this unassuming café, which has been around for years (and renamed) is not about the food (fairly average – not a great breakfast but not a bad one either) and all about the embellishments.

From the funky art, the thrift store finds, and a real mixed bag of attic treasures—this place grew to be a 50’s diner with the skill of owner, artist and former antique camera collector Prairie Joe.

Go for a look and a cup of coffee. It’s indisputably a joint that’s always full of locals trying to catch up on the politics of the neighborhood.

Bon Appetit!

A Passion for Puffy Tacos

2012-01-28T05:54:00.000-06:00

Puffy Tacos are a specialty on San Antonio’s menus.

Another San Antonio invention, like the breakfast taco, they are a permanent part of timeless Tex-Mex cuisine.

Owner of San Antonio restaurant’s La Hacienda and Los Barrios, Diana Barrios Trevino cooked them at the White House back in 2010. Here is Diana’s original recipe for the puffy shells:

Puffy Taco Shell Recipe

Makes 12-15 tacos

3 cups corn masa mix

1 ½ teaspoons salt
2 ¼ cups warm water
Vegetable oil for frying

Combine the masa mix, salt and warm water in a large bowl and mix until a smooth dough forms. Pull off pieces of dough and roll them into balls about the size of Ping-Pong ball.

Cut a quart-size re-sealable plastic bag open down both sides, to form a rectangle.

Use the bag to line a tortilla press as you shape the tortillas, so they do not stick: Lay one side of the plastic over the bottom of the press, place a ball of dough in the center, and fold the other side of the plastic over the dough. Shut the top of the tortilla press firmly down on the dough to shape the tortilla.

Meanwhile, pour 2 inches of vegetable oil into large deep pot and heat to 250 degrees.

Drop a tortilla into the hot oil and, using a metal spatula; repeatedly douse the tortilla with the hot oil until it begins to puff up.

Flip it over and, using the spatula, make an indentation in the center of the tortilla to form a taco shape. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Repeat with the remaining tortillas.

Fill each taco with your favorite fillings.

This recipe is Saveur’s take on the puffy tacos that are served at Rolando’s Super Tacos in San Antonio. For over 24 years, this tiny place has cranked out some of the biggest and best Mexican bites. I ate there 16 years ago and the food continues to have a very enthusiastic following.

Changes: I didn’t mash the avocado but diced it instead. I also made a miniature version to serve as an appetizer rather than an entrée.

Bon Appetit!

¼ cup olive oil
2½ lb. bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
1 rib celery, finely chopped
1 small carrot, finely chopped
1 small red bell pepper, finely chopped
3 cups chicken stock
1 14-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes in juice, crushed by hand
2 avocados, pitted, peeled, and mashed
2 cloves garlic, minced

Juice of 1 lime

Canola oil, for frying
3 cups masa harina
1½ tbsp. unsalted butter, softened

Shredded iceberg lettuce, diced tomato, and shredded cheddar cheese, to garnish

Heat oil in an 8-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat. Season chicken with salt and pepper, and add to pan, skin side down; cook, turning once, until browned on both sides, about 8 minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate; set aside. Add garlic, onion, celery, carrot, and bell pepper; cook, stirring, until soft, about 20 minutes. Add stock and tomatoes, and return chicken to pan; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; cook until chicken is very tender, about 1½ hours. Remove chicken from sauce, and let cool; reserve sauce for another use. Discard skin and bones, and shred chicken; set aside. Meanwhile, combine avocados, garlic, lime juice, and salt and pepper in a bowl; chill guacamole until ready to use, covering to avoid browning.

Pour oil to a depth of 2″ in a 6-qt. Dutch oven and heat over medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer reads 375°. Stir together masa, butter, and 214 cups warm water in a bowl until dough forms; divide dough into 12 pieces and shape each piece into a ball. Using a tortilla press or rolling pin, flatten each ball into a 6½″ disk. Place 1 disk in oil. When it begins to puff, press the end of a metal spatula into the middle of the tortilla so that tortilla bends into a taco shape; hold spatula within tortilla until taco is golden brown and crisp, about 1½ minutes. Transfer taco to paper towels to drain; repeat with remaining tortillas. Divide chicken and guacamole among tacos; top with lettuce, tomato, and cheese.

Afterthought: With the leftover chicken, I made Eggs Benedict for breakfast the next morning. So good with the biscuits and a beautiful green heirloom tomato I was surprised to find at the Fresh market yesterday.

Pork Belly

2012-01-28T05:43:00.001-06:00

Mention Pork Belly and my taste buds stand at attention.

Know the flavor of this marinate is what made all of the recipes I used it in worth mentioning.

This marinate can be changed up. I’ve also used juices in this mix to add a fruity flavor.

Bon Appetit!

1lb pork belly chunk
soy sauce
1/2 cup mirin
1/2 cup sake
1 clove garlic
water

In a heavy pot or dutch oven, sear the pork belly on all sides

Add the sake, mirin, 1 clove of garlic and enough water to barely submerge the pork belly.

Add Soy sauce to taste, remember as the braising liquid reduces, it becomes saltier.

Braise the pork belly for 2 hours or until tender.

Remove the pork belly and let it cool.

Remove the pork belly and slice it while it is still cold.

Place the sliced pork belly back in a pan and fry on very low heat until ready to serve.

Season with a little fresh pepper.

Happy Chinese New Years

2012-01-27T22:05:00.003-06:00

Year of the Dragon...

We'll be hanging out curbside on Wentworth Sunday. Cook up a Chinese New Year's feast and let's compare recipes next week.

Bon Appetit!