CupCakes and CrabLegs

Chicago's Best Brunch Dishes

2012-02-08T21:14:00.003-06:00

It’s no secret that I am a huge fan of Saturday Brunch. Given my choice of breakfast, lunch or dinner, I will choose breakfast every time.

These 10 restaurants get my vote for a Saturday’s best because there was one item that stuck in my mind and prompts me to come back for Round II.

2 Sparrows – Glazed Doughnuts

These were so good I immediately went home and tried to duplicate the recipe. No such luck. One-of-a-kind excellence.

553 W Diversey

Big Jones – Popovers

Big Jones Benedict had house cured and smoked ham simmered in Kilgus Farmstead cream, poached eggs and Potatoes O'Brien but instead of having it on a biscuit I opted for the popover. The popover made the dish.

5347 N Clark

Chicago Q – Southern Hash browns

I judge a place by the way they cook their hash brown potatoes and these were the best southern fries I’ve ever had. A second nod goes to the smoked chicken in the Egg’s Benedict. And watch out...homemade chips and pickles will fill you up.

1160 N Dearborn

Davanti Enoteca - Pizza della Fattoria

A Farmed Egg+Pork Belly+Potato+Scallions+Asiago+béchamel. Ask anyone who has tried this and they will tell you it’s simply the best pizza in Chicago.

1359 W Taylor

Chicago scores double on this one. Great Hot Chocolate is hard to find and I had a cup at not just one but two celebrated restaurants.

Mindy’s Hot Chocolate – The Black and Tan

1/3 hot fudge and 2/3 medium hot chocolate

A plus for the homemade marshmallows.

1747 North Damen

XOCO – Mexico City Thick Hot Chocolate.

Extra points for bean-to-bar and the amazing aroma of roasting cacao

449 N Clark

Lula – English Muffins

I found out at Lula’s that a super-thin English muffin makes the Eggs Benedict.

2537 N Kenzie

Mercat a la Planxa – Truffle Oil

Another Egg’s Benedict with huge flavor and the secret is all in the truffle oil.

638 South Michigan

Perennial Virant – Homeboy Potatoes

Tiny, crispy and with a topping of Brunkow cheese curds.

1800 N Lincoln Avenue

Sola – Huevos Benedictos

Feeling a little under the weather from the night before? Nothing that eggs, cornbread and a little chorizo wouldn’t cure.

3868 N Lincoln Avenue

Runner Up: The walk up that every one lines up for on Saturday AM - The Doughnut Vault.

401 1/2 N Franklin.

Bon Appetit!

Pasteur...A French Vietnamese Classic

2012-02-08T20:56:00.000-06:00

I love Vietnamese food. In fact it’s my favorite cuisine and Pasteur (5525 N Broadway) has skillfully recreated some of the authentic Vietnamese classics.

Interestingly, they do not do fusion. Instead they happen to have some classic French dishes on the menu too so you can mix your meal like I did.

With fish sauce, soy paste, fresh herbs and vegetables, Vietnamese is one of the healthiest cuisines in the world. The meats and vegetables are briefly cooked and when you throw in a bit of lemongrass, mint, coriander and Thai basil, you’ve got the most aromatic cuisine around. I also love the colorful, spicy and flavorful condiments such as the Nuoc Mam.

Dishes such as phở, bún riêu, bánh cuốn are classic in the Vietnamese kitchen as well as central Vietnam’s bún bò Huế and bánh xèo.

Central Vietnam cooks up some of the spiciest food in the country so I need to find more recipes from this region as I love spice.

Outside influences?

Vietnamese food has a powerful vegetarian tradition influenced by Buddhist ideals. Thus all the veggies floating in my soup today.

The French introduced baguettes which were stuffed with Vietnamese meat and pickled vegetables to become the banh mi, the most profitable French-Vietnamese culinary merger ever and a popular street food in Vietnam.

India’s inspiration lead to the adoption of curry in Vietnamese cuisine and that is one dish that I have yet to wrap my arms around but I am trying.

The service at Pasteur is typically French where they take time to introduce each course and you take the time to appreciate each and every bite.

I had Vegetarian egg rolls served with lettuce, pickled vegetables and Nuoc Mam. followed by Tamarind Shimp soup. The soup was delicious, filled with a ton of fresh vegetables and the pineapple gave it a full and rich flavor. In fact, I think that’s the first time I’ve had pineapple as an ingredient in my soup.

My main course was Confit Duck Legs with cauliflower puree, and a Grand Marnier and orange reduction. The duck was perfectly cooked and to my surprise, the side - the cauliflower -was my favorite dish of the meal.

So who is the French in this interesting equation?

Eric Aubriot was born in Paris, has been twice nominated for the James Beard Rising Star award and I should have guessed is a product of Carlos in Highland Park.

Come to think of it, just about every great French chef has Carlos on his resume somewhere.

Bon Appetit!

Honey Nut Cheerio Infused Rum

2012-02-08T20:41:00.003-06:00

My absolute favorite drink is a Mai Tai.

Blended correctly (no store bought mix) with fresh ingredients, it is a delicious favorite of just about everyone I make them for.

This is not just a summer drink. I make them up year round.

Speaking of Mai Tai’s… my new batch of Honey Nut Cheerio Infused Rum make great Mini Mai Tai’s and I always like to try new recipes.

1 ½ oz Honey Nut Cheerio infused rum
1/2 oz creme de almond
1/2 oz triple sec
sweet and sour mix
pineapple juice

Any way you mix this one up, one sip and you'll be ready to pack your bags and go on a cruise.

Remember the original Trader Vic’s recipes (and they are still the best) have no juice in them and TV swears by no juice.

I’ve tried for years now to decide which one I like the best. You tell me.

Guess I’ll have to try a few more and let you know but don’t anticipate an answer any time soon. I'm on Mai Tai time.

Bon Appetit!

1944 Original Formula

2 ounces of 17-year old J. Wray & Nephew Rum over shaved ice.
Add juice from one fresh lime.
1/2 ounce Holland DeKuyper Orange Curacao.
1/4 ounce Trader Vic's Rock Candy Syrup.
1/2 ounce French Garier Orgeat Syrup
Shake vigorously.
Add a sprig of fresh mint

1997 "Old Way" Mai Tai Formula

1 ounce Fine Jamaican Rum (15 or 8 year old)

1 ounce Martinique Rum (St. James)
1/2 ounce Orange Curacao
1/2 ounce Orgeat Syrup
Juice from one fresh lime (about 3/4 ounce)
Mix and serve as in the Original Formula

My New Addiction?

2012-02-08T19:54:00.001-06:00

World market's Limoncillino.

The unique little glass is from Art Effect at 934 West Armitage. You’ll find so many things here that you don’t find any place else in Chicago.

I had to hold back after purchasing three adorable glasses including this tiny wine glass which is a perfect start for a healthy New Year.

Bon Appetit!

Creating A Signature Dish

2012-02-08T19:44:00.000-06:00

The secret of many successful cooks is not that they are experts at everything. It’s that they have learned to do one or two things really well. They have a signature dish.

The best way to create one is trial and error. I know because most of my signature dishes were errors in the beginning…one after another. Oft times I was ready to give it up but then I had another idea to substitute an ingredient or cooking method. With time, my efforts were rewarded but it did take a lot of testing and experimentation to get there.

Remember, cooking is science…which reminds me that I really need to spring for a copy of Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking. It’s down to $468.37 from $625.00 on Amazon. I know. Somehow it’s hard to part with that much cash.

As I continue to think about it you continue to cook.

First, find a recipe that you love, begin to experiment with it until you get it perfect. Yes perfect. Make it over and over again until you can do it in your sleep. You know the old saying: Practice makes perfect? Like anything it does.

Don’t forget to ask for feedback from everyone you cook it for because they feed you your best ideas on how to improve it.

Also make sure that you keep the ingredients on hand so if you get an inspiration in the middle of the night, you have everything you need to start cooking it at 3 AM.

Breakfast anyone?

Bon Appetit!

Marc Burger

2012-02-08T19:02:00.000-06:00

Tucked into a sunny corner on the 7^th floor of Macy’s food court is Marc Burger. The Marc is Marcus Samuelsson, and Marc Burger is his farm to table, fresh ingredient burger joint.

I ordered the Marc Burger with the fried egg and the steak sauce and it was good but not sure it was worth the $12 price tag. Next time I will order his award winning BBQ Burger that was being devoured at the table next door.

Doesn’t that always happen? You look over and wish you had ordered what the guy next door is eating.

Great Side kick: The flavored ketchup.

French fries were interestingly seasoned as was the chocolate shake... they made theirs with custard instead of ice cream.

I was certain when the waitress handed me a frequent dining card, I looked like I would be coming back.

Her first clue: Not a thing left on my plate…or the plate next door.

Bon Appetit!

Making A Perfect Bloody Mary

2012-02-08T18:57:00.000-06:00

tomato juice - homemade lemon or lime juice
horseradish
Worcestershire and Tabasco
black pepper
celery salt
celery
lemon wedge

How did my friend the food scientist describe these ingredients that are basic to a bloody mary? “They have a central flavor volatile, a flavor non-volatile for a definite taste and an aroma that fades out for a perfect ending.”

Enough about science because most of my friends describe this combination as essential to a perfect Bloody Mary.

You can make them visually interesting by garnishing with just about anything including pickled brussels sprouts, turnips, green beans, radishes, pickles, olives or caper berries.

I’ve even heard of a green bloody made with tomatillos, lime, cilantro, pineapple and tequila and another with pureed yellow heirloom tomatoes and tomato-infused vodka. Whatever way you mix it, put on your signature touch and people will remember.

Here are some things to remember:

Use Only The Best Ingredients

Fresh cut lemons and limes, beautiful, plump fresh tomatoes, shaved fresh horseradish. Honestly, everything needs to be fresh because the freshest ingredients produce the strongest bouquet and taste.

Make Tiny Drinks

The blend of ingredients is very unbalanced chemically and starts to taste different within a half hour after it is made. Make tiny drinks to get the best flavor

Make A Fresh Mix

If I did one thing to improve the quality if a bloody mary, it would be a fresh mix. Best time to do this is during framers market when tomatoes are at their prime.

Use homemade infused vodka

The robust, spicy flavor of a Bloody Mary overpowers the flavor of the vodka, so don't use a premium vodka but a homemade infused vodka.

I’ve tried everything from lemon to tomato infused vodka but I like this pepper infused which really gives the bloody a kick.

Pepper Vodka

1 serrano chile, stemmed, seeded, and quartered lengthwise
1 jalapeno chile, stemmed, seeded, and quartered lengthwise
1 red habanero chilie, stemmed, seeded, and quartered lengthwise
One 750-ml bottle good-quality vodka

Place the chiles in a large glass container, add the vodka, and cap.

Let stand at room temperature for 48 hours, shaking once or twice a day.

Infuse for a few days and taste daily until it is perfect. Don’t allow it to infuse longer than 2 weeks, or the vodka will have a bitter flavor.

Strain the infused vodka. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Bon Appetit!

Fried Green Tomatoes

2012-02-08T18:48:00.000-06:00

I love fried green tomatoes especially on Sunday morning when neighbors drop over because they know I’m frying them up. I paired them today with poached eggs and day old Brioche.

You’ll love this recipe with the flour and cornmeal mix. Really gives the crust a delicious crunch.

Bon Appetit!

Fried Green Tomatoes

1 large egg, beaten

½ cup buttermilk
½ cup self-rising cornmeal mix
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon pepper
½ cup all-purpose flour
3 medium-size, firm green tomatoes, cut into 1/3-inch-thick slices (about 1 1/4 lb.)
Vegetable oil

Whisk together egg and buttermilk. Combine cornmeal mix, salt, pepper, and 1/4 cup flour in a shallow dish. Dredge tomato slices in remaining 1/4 cup flour; dip in egg mixture, and dredge in cornmeal mixture.

Pour oil to a depth of 1/2 inch in a large cast-iron skillet; heat to 375° over medium-high heat. Drop tomatoes, in batches, into hot oil, and cook 2 minutes on each side or until golden. Drain on paper towels. Sprinkle hot tomatoes with salt to taste.

Skirt Steak...Revisted

2012-02-08T18:37:00.000-06:00

How many people have told you that a skirt steak needs marinating to be tender? I did not marinate this steak which is against every rule in my food preparation memory. I was really hesitant to use this recipe but it came out absolutely perfect and was so enjoyable.

The recipe calls for cooking 2 minutes per side. I probably cooked it 4 minutes on each side as this skirt was a little thicker than most.

I like the Chimichurri sauce – a tasteful addition with the olive oil which is what I usually marinate it in.

What I really liked about this recipe is that the true flavor of the meat came out . Wow – is this what skirt steak tastes like? I simply rubbed the meat down with some sea salt and fresh ground pepper before putting it on a very hot grill.

Bon Appetit!

Skirt Steak With Chimichurri Sauce

2 cups chopped parsley

2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
6 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons minced garlic
2 teaspoons crushed red pepper
Salt and freshly ground pepper
4 pounds skirt steak

Light a grill. In a bowl, mix the parsley, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and crushed red pepper; season with salt and pepper.

Season the skirt steak with salt and pepper and grill over a hot fire until the meat is charred on the outside and rare within, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a carving board and let rest for 5 minutes. Thinly slice the steak across the grain.

Serve right away, passing the chimichurri sauce at the table.

BopNGrill's Korean Dinner

2012-02-08T18:26:00.001-06:00

“The Consulate General of the Republic of Korea in Chicago and Chef William Song cordially invite you to a Korean Cuisine tasting event featuring classic Korean street foods as well some never-before-tasted fusion dishes created especially for this event.

All we ask in return are your honest opinions and for you to enjoy the food and company.”

I get a lot of invitations to eat out. One of my favorite invites is for Korean food so when I got this invitation and found I was booked, I sent my young friend Andrew who loves to cook and eat Korean food. He cooks it often when he is not at his mom’s house devouring authentic Filipino.

Here are Andrew’s animated notes from the night…

Susan from Cupcakes and Crablegs was generous enough to pass on her tickets to bopNgrill's tasting event.

Traditionally, I am not one for fusion food, as it tends to mute the flavors of either cuisine. However, I came to really appreciate Chef Will's seamless integration of traditional Korean elements into classic American food.

Burgers, fries, risotto, and cocktails were all given a very refreshing Korean flair; traditional Korean dishes were also treated to some unexpected American flavors as well.

Upon entering bopNgrill's new restaurant location, Kristin was there to greet me and direct me to the cocktail table. Score! There were 2 kinds to choose from, a traditional rice wine, and a cocktail mixed with a pomegranate blend and vinegar.

We sat down to three different dipping sauces, gojujang, saamjang, and a sesame soy mix.

The first dish we were brought was a traditional duck rice cake, wrapped in bacon and interspersed with fish cake in bamboo skewers…they were fresh out of the kitchen; the crispy salty bacon played well with the soft textures of the cakes.

Next, we had a preparation of bulgogi, a garlic, soy marinated beef, sliced thinly. Traditionally you would use a sweet element like pear juice in the marinade, but this was stuffed inside horizontally cut eggroll wrappers and slathered with Velveeta. Wow.

After the bulgogi, we had a hefty crab cake. The exterior was nice and flaky, and had a drizzle of kimchi tartar on top. This was a fine example of how a slight Korean touch really gave a traditionally American dish an unexpected Asian element.

Guess what, finished this one as well.

We had a few moments to contemplate how full we were getting, before we were brought Styrofoam clamshells with toothpicks protruding from them. I wonder what could be inside?

Aah yes, Chef Wills signature kimchi burger and fries. A perfectly done slider, with a kimchi topping and cheese.

This blows your standard texmex bar and grill faire out of the ocean. A salvo of kimchi fries, also greased with cheese ensured we would get 3x our recommended calorie intake for the day but I didn’t care. This was a feast.

As a departure from the dishes we enjoyed, we were treated to juk ( rice porridge) but prepared as a risotto. Kimchi and an orchid flower sat atop.

This was a very refreshing presentation of the porridge. The texture was amazing.

At this point I questioned the strength of my stomach. I sat down to a presentation of greens and homemade kimchi and wondered what this was all about?

I snacked on some mild jalapeno slices and suddenly, a huge slab of pork shoulder was placed in front of us. The size suggested the pigs that graciously donated themselves for our high-living were upwards of 275lbs.

They were cooked slow and low, using a dry rub of salt pepper and brown sugar. Roasted heads of garlic were at the perimeter of the presentation. Will said the shoulder was uncovered the last few moments to build an appreciable crust.

Whatever, enough with the scientific banter, LETS EAT!

Chinese New Year's: Before The Parade

2012-01-31T22:02:00.002-06:00

Sourcing Global Ingredients: McCormick’s 2012 Flavor Pairings

2012-01-31T21:15:00.001-06:00

When the 2012 McCormick’s Flavor Pairings came out, I knew that I was going to be on the hunt for ingredients (one of my favorite things to do) because McCormick created it’s very first global forecast.

Get your passport out and pack your bags because this forecast will take you on a genuine flavor journey.

A worldwide group of food professionals, including McCormick For Chef’s Executive Chef Kevan Vetter, joined forces to predict what global food trends will influence your food choices for years to come.

We’ll have to track these back but so far Kevan’s crystal ball has been ever so accurate, especially on things like Chipotle and Cocktail-Inspired Meals.

I must admit that some of the ingredients were not easy to find – even in Chicago- but there are numerous internet markets now where you can purchase just about anything. You will however not have half the fun that I did looking for some of the items like Korean Pepper Paste and Red Tea.

It was an outing in the snow and cold to find Korean Pepper Paste only to find it later that same day in my own back yard (Fresh Market – Lake Forest). But the trip to Argyle renewed some of my old connections with the best Asian markets in the city so the trek was well worth fighting the elements to find it.

I love sourcing ingredients because it’s always an adventure. More often than not, I finish the day with a mixed bag of new and interesting friends and an education that I could not have possibly learned in a book or the classroom.

When I looked at the list this year, the combinations are surprising. Who would ever pair red pepper and grapefruit but when I tried it, I loved the exciting turn of flavor.

These pairings were well worth the wait and here are the groupings for 2012.

Cumin with Sofrito

Authentic Hispanic Foundational Flavors

Did you know that Cumin is the second most popular spice in the world after black pepper? Even that surprised me.

Sofrito? Sofrito is a combination of ingredients which have been cut in very small pieces and slowly sauteed in cooking oil or bacon grease for 30 minutes.

People enjoy green sofrito but I prefer mine tomato based. What I really love about Sofrito is that it is made with only the freshest ingredients. Mainly onions, garlic, and green bell peppers… similar combinations of vegetables are known as the holy trinity in Creole cooking, refogado in Portuguese, soffritto in Italian, suppengrün (soup greens) in Germany and włoszczyzna in Poland.

No matter what you call it, it is the source of all flavor for many dishes and cumin adds an interesting mix to the pot.

Korean Pepper Paste with Sesame, Asian Pear and Garlic

BBQ With A Global Twist

Korean Pepper Paste?

Gochujang: a flavorful and pungent fermented Korean flavoring made from red chili, rice, fermented soybeans and salt.

Exploring this flavor combination is going to be fascinating particularly when it comes to firing up the BBQ.

Stay tuned for a lot of wonderful recipes from this match. One of my favorites.

Dill with Mint, Melon and Cucumber

The Ultimate Refresher

I’ve never been a huge fan of dill but balancing it with mint, melon and cucumber, well… this combination becomes the ultimate refresher for sure.

Even a small pile of melon and cucumber topped with these two spices was a clean approach to the start of any meal.

The possibilities are endless and don’t think this is just a summer union. A lot more markets are bringing in these celebrated ingredients… even in the middle of winter.

Meyers Lemon with Lemon Thyme, Limoncello and Lemon Peel

The Ultimate Lemon

Pucker up because all of you who love lemon well… this is your pairing.

I never thought about bringing in so many lemon flavors at once but I am now an aficionado of all things lemon.

ING’s restaurant inspired me to try the honey nut cheerios infused rum with these ingredients so look for the result on my blog in the next few weeks.

Eggplant With Honey and Harissa

Worldly Veggie With Sweet Heat

I didn’t have a clue what Harissa was before these pairings were published.

Since Mourad Lahlou is one of my favorite Moroccan chefs it is fascinating to see what he does with Harissa. Beef cheeks with Carrot Jam and a Harissa emulsion. Dungeness crab roasted in Meyer Lemon Harissa Butter. Harissa is now ever-present on Moroccan tables, almost like ketchup.

Stay tuned because I really loved the well-balanced pairing of Harissa and Honey.

Squash With Red Curry and Pancetta

Versatile Veggie With A Touch Of Thai

Mention Pancetta and I get excited. I use to think that bacon made everything taste better until I tried Pancetta.

This combination of squash (which I have never particularly loved) and Red Curry (which has also not been one of my favorites) has made me a believer in the power of Pancetta.

Ginger and Coconut

Warm Spice Joins Tropical Favorite

No surprise that the flavors I loved when I lived in Hawaii made the list.

I am such a fan of ginger in fact, consumed as a delicacy, medicine and spice that I grate it on just about everything…including sorbet.

Vanilla With Butter

Pure Essentials For Real Goodness

OK – so now we get down to the basics. Butter and Vanilla.

Butter is the source of everything delicious. Sorry, I believe that Julia was right… you just can’t find a substitute for butter no matter how hard you try.

Vanilla: One of Mc’Cormick’s core ingredients from day one. Who sells more vanilla than McCormick?

Together these two classics are the foundation of a lot of memorable recipes.

Doesn’t it always go back to the basics?

Red Tea With Cinnamon and Plum

Better-for-You Beverage Meets Fruit And Spice

It took me forever to find red tea. Only logical that instead of looking at the grocery, I would find it at Argo Tea, who sold it to me by the ounce.

Did you know that red tea is really black tea, made from the completely oxidized bud leaves of Camellia sinensis?

Better ask the tea specialist at Argo because there are so many varieties out there now you need an expert to keep up with an ever changing marketplace.

Have to admit that the combination of the red tea with the Cinnamon (Saigon of course) and Plum had me dreaming up what I could do next with one of the most interesting groupings on the list.

I also love the winter plums I found in the market…beautiful, deep, dark red and so delicious.

Grapefruit With Red Pepper

A New Take On Lemon Pepper

Ok – so this was easy but Red Pepper and Grapefruit?

I didn’t think I would like the idea but once I took a bite, it was so easy to jump into these flavors.

This pairing will produce a lot of inspiring combinations including a non-stop assortment of salads.

Sweet Soy With Tamarind and Black Pepper

Steak Sauce With An Asian Flavor

These are my ingredients. From steak sauce to marinates and used in a variety of cuisines, Tamarind is also great for medicinal purposes and I would be one to favor a little black pepper to do the trick.

Like celery, onion and green pepper is to New Orleans cooking, these three are the holy trinity of BBQ.

Blueberry With Cardamom and Corn Masa

From Everyday to Extraordinary

OK – so I existed on Corn Masa for years when I lived in Mexico.

Corn Masa, which is a staple ingredient in Latin American foods such as corn tortillas and tamales, is also a essential ingredient in the new American kitchen.

Tell me that Corn Masa Pancakes with Blueberries and Cardamom isn’t a breakfast that gets you thinking about what else to do with these ingredients?

Bon Appetit and look for recipes with these great pairings in the months ahead.

ING: The Culinary Physics of Honey Nut Cheerios

2012-01-31T20:50:00.002-06:00

ING (imagining new gastronomy), the brainchild of Chef Homaro Cantu, unites Asian comfort with the genius of a “to the right” molecular gastronomy. No matter what you call it, the focus is presentation. The results: Alchemy… pure and simple.

The 2006 Iron Chef winner, Cantu makes use of both liquid nitrogen and lasers to construct his dishes. What amazed me the most was that his printed food strip -edible paper- helps chemotherapy patients taste again.

My father was an inventor so it was no revelation that Cantu holds six patents with 16 or more pending.

What do I love about inventors? They are the ultimate risk takers.

On a quick tour of the kitchen, I was amazed at how small it was. One of the chefs joked that he had to document -on his resume- that he was skinny enough to cook there. That surprised me too. Not an “over fed” chef in the bunch. It was either the recently placed pool table to the south of the kitchen for exercise or a recurrent dose of liquid nitrogen.

The 6 course menu was launched on an oragami cube. My first clue that something unusual was about to happen. Separating the cube was almost as complex as the dinner. You had to do both slowly and methodically in order for the magic to break free.

So, let’s get back to the Culinary Physics of Honey Nut Cheerios?

Yes, this General Mills cereal is not just for breakfast anymore. The combination of the rum, honey, lemon and frangelico was stunning. In fact, every wine, beer and drink selection was so skillfully paired it was an essential part of the entire food experience.

So what is the secret of the rum? Mix a cup of Honey Nut Cheerios with 12 ounces of rum. Infuse overnight. Strain. Simple as that.

My favorite food? A cheese ball with triple cream, fruit cake cracker (a fruit cake with Gran Marnier and dehydrated) in a mulled wine reduction.

Salud to the chef who made a mind-boggling chain of sweet potatoes and then smothered it in vanilla parsnip, balsamic, truffle and hazelnut.

My least favorite dish: The Turducken was like a slice of deli meat but the crispy fried brussel sprouts…they were amazing.

The wines – the German Rebenhof, Urziger Wurzgarten, Riesling Kabinett Mosel 2009, the Picket Fence Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2009 and the Italian Colterenzio Gewurtztraminer, alto-Adige 2010 were magnificent as was a surprising Anderson Valley Brewing Company Winter Solstice ale that was paired with a Baozi venison, caramelized onions, carrot and cherry.

We also experienced several rounds of Cantu’s famous miracle berries -- a West African fruit that trips up your taste buds by blocking bitter and sour tastes. When you eat one, it makes everything sour taste sweet and for me, who loves sweet, this was the ultimate encounter.

I don’t often describe service as flawless but ING’s was. All of the waiters were well-informed and no matter how many questions I threw out at them, there wasn’t one who could not deliver an immediate answer. Impressive! The service component is as essential to the complete experience as the food and drink so how lucky we were to be having the best of all three. And the price point? $75 a head was a bargain for the unbelievable quality and quantity of food.

If I had my choice of Chicago restaurants for the overall experience, ING’s would be it.

Bon Appetit and check out the Valentine’s Day special.

Now, if only I could find a valentine.

Prairie Joe's

2012-01-28T06:06:00.000-06:00

At 1921 Central Street in Evanston, this unassuming café, which has been around for years (and renamed) is not about the food (fairly average – not a great breakfast but not a bad one either) and all about the embellishments.

From the funky art, the thrift store finds, and a real mixed bag of attic treasures—this place grew to be a 50’s diner with the skill of owner, artist and former antique camera collector Prairie Joe.

Go for a look and a cup of coffee. It’s indisputably a joint that’s always full of locals trying to catch up on the politics of the neighborhood.

Bon Appetit!

A Passion for Puffy Tacos

2012-01-28T05:54:00.000-06:00

Puffy Tacos are a specialty on San Antonio’s menus.

Another San Antonio invention, like the breakfast taco, they are a permanent part of timeless Tex-Mex cuisine.

Owner of San Antonio restaurant’s La Hacienda and Los Barrios, Diana Barrios Trevino cooked them at the White House back in 2010. Here is Diana’s original recipe for the puffy shells:

Puffy Taco Shell Recipe

Makes 12-15 tacos

3 cups corn masa mix

1 ½ teaspoons salt
2 ¼ cups warm water
Vegetable oil for frying

Combine the masa mix, salt and warm water in a large bowl and mix until a smooth dough forms. Pull off pieces of dough and roll them into balls about the size of Ping-Pong ball.

Cut a quart-size re-sealable plastic bag open down both sides, to form a rectangle.

Use the bag to line a tortilla press as you shape the tortillas, so they do not stick: Lay one side of the plastic over the bottom of the press, place a ball of dough in the center, and fold the other side of the plastic over the dough. Shut the top of the tortilla press firmly down on the dough to shape the tortilla.

Meanwhile, pour 2 inches of vegetable oil into large deep pot and heat to 250 degrees.

Drop a tortilla into the hot oil and, using a metal spatula; repeatedly douse the tortilla with the hot oil until it begins to puff up.

Flip it over and, using the spatula, make an indentation in the center of the tortilla to form a taco shape. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Repeat with the remaining tortillas.

Fill each taco with your favorite fillings.

This recipe is Saveur’s take on the puffy tacos that are served at Rolando’s Super Tacos in San Antonio. For over 24 years, this tiny place has cranked out some of the biggest and best Mexican bites. I ate there 16 years ago and the food continues to have a very enthusiastic following.

Changes: I didn’t mash the avocado but diced it instead. I also made a miniature version to serve as an appetizer rather than an entrée.

Bon Appetit!

¼ cup olive oil
2½ lb. bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
1 rib celery, finely chopped
1 small carrot, finely chopped
1 small red bell pepper, finely chopped
3 cups chicken stock
1 14-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes in juice, crushed by hand
2 avocados, pitted, peeled, and mashed
2 cloves garlic, minced

Juice of 1 lime

Canola oil, for frying
3 cups masa harina
1½ tbsp. unsalted butter, softened

Shredded iceberg lettuce, diced tomato, and shredded cheddar cheese, to garnish

Heat oil in an 8-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat. Season chicken with salt and pepper, and add to pan, skin side down; cook, turning once, until browned on both sides, about 8 minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate; set aside. Add garlic, onion, celery, carrot, and bell pepper; cook, stirring, until soft, about 20 minutes. Add stock and tomatoes, and return chicken to pan; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; cook until chicken is very tender, about 1½ hours. Remove chicken from sauce, and let cool; reserve sauce for another use. Discard skin and bones, and shred chicken; set aside. Meanwhile, combine avocados, garlic, lime juice, and salt and pepper in a bowl; chill guacamole until ready to use, covering to avoid browning.

Pour oil to a depth of 2″ in a 6-qt. Dutch oven and heat over medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer reads 375°. Stir together masa, butter, and 214 cups warm water in a bowl until dough forms; divide dough into 12 pieces and shape each piece into a ball. Using a tortilla press or rolling pin, flatten each ball into a 6½″ disk. Place 1 disk in oil. When it begins to puff, press the end of a metal spatula into the middle of the tortilla so that tortilla bends into a taco shape; hold spatula within tortilla until taco is golden brown and crisp, about 1½ minutes. Transfer taco to paper towels to drain; repeat with remaining tortillas. Divide chicken and guacamole among tacos; top with lettuce, tomato, and cheese.

Afterthought: With the leftover chicken, I made Eggs Benedict for breakfast the next morning. So good with the biscuits and a beautiful green heirloom tomato I was surprised to find at the Fresh market yesterday.

Pork Belly

2012-01-28T05:43:00.001-06:00

Mention Pork Belly and my taste buds stand at attention.

Know the flavor of this marinate is what made all of the recipes I used it in worth mentioning.

This marinate can be changed up. I’ve also used juices in this mix to add a fruity flavor.

Bon Appetit!

1lb pork belly chunk
soy sauce
1/2 cup mirin
1/2 cup sake
1 clove garlic
water

In a heavy pot or dutch oven, sear the pork belly on all sides

Add the sake, mirin, 1 clove of garlic and enough water to barely submerge the pork belly.

Add Soy sauce to taste, remember as the braising liquid reduces, it becomes saltier.

Braise the pork belly for 2 hours or until tender.

Remove the pork belly and let it cool.

Remove the pork belly and slice it while it is still cold.

Place the sliced pork belly back in a pan and fry on very low heat until ready to serve.

Season with a little fresh pepper.

Happy Chinese New Years

2012-01-27T22:05:00.003-06:00

Year of the Dragon...

We'll be hanging out curbside on Wentworth Sunday. Cook up a Chinese New Year's feast and let's compare recipes next week.

Bon Appetit!

Sweet and Sour Pork

2012-01-24T20:01:00.002-06:00

Not a real fan of sweet and sour pork but this version takes slices of pork and pineapple and lightly breads them in a combination of sparkling mineral water and rice flour. The results: Remarkable.

I love the addition of the fresh tomatoes and mint that really compliment the flavor of theried pork and pineapple. What was key is that both the pork and the pineapple were sliced paper thin.

I would not as a rule plan this dish for an early AM breakfast but could not stop eating once I took a bite.

If you like sweet and sour you’ll love this. If you don't, you'll probably change your mind with the first bite.

Bon Appetit!

Sauce:

1 ½ Cups Rice Wine Vinegar

2/3 Cup Chinese Cooking Wine (Shaoxing)
1 cut Caster Sugar
Sea salt flakes
Ginger to taste, peeled and thinly sliced

Mix in a saucepan over low heat until sugar is disloved. Increase heat to high and bring to a boil. Cook 20 minutes or until thickened.

Vegetable Oil

1 cup rice flour
1 ¼ cups sparkling mineral water
¾ pound thinly sliced pork
Thinly sliced fresh pineapple

Heat vegetable oil to 375 degrees. Place the rice flour and mineral water in a bowl and whisk until smooth. Dust the pork and pineapple with a little extra flour. Shake to remove excess. Dip into batter and lightly coat. Deep fry for 2 minutes or until lightly golden. Drain on a paper towel.

2 long red clilies, sliced

2 green onions, cut into pieces
¼ pound cherry tomatoes, sliced
1 cup mint leaves

Mix with a combination of chili, green onion, tomato and mint. Arrange on plates with the pork, pineapple and drizzle with the sauce.

Bo Ssam

2012-01-24T19:44:00.003-06:00

Bo Ssam is almost the same as the Puerco Asada I made a few weeks ago without the latin accents. It’s cooked low and slow in the oven instead of at a high heat. The last 15 minutes, you turn the temperature up to 500 degrees and blast the fat to build up an outer crust.

Tackle Bo Ssam, a Korean dish, with a pair of chop sticks and serve lettuce, rice and a variety of sauces on the side.

I like the way this was cooked and think that you can use any number of side dishes to change up the ethnicity of the dish.

I found the recipe in the New York Times which is one of my favorite sources for ideas. Makes sense since New York has some of the best restaurants in the world.

David Chang, the chef who owns a rather sizeable restaurant empire in New York and abroad, offers this dish at Momofuku Ssam Bar in New York for $200, where it serves 6 - 10 people and frequently bowls people over with the flavor.

They are not alone as I would put this dish in the top twenty of my all time favorites. Any would be chef with a good butcher and a lot of patience (you have to baste the roast every hour) can create magic with this recipe. There was not a single person at the table Sunday night that didn’t love it. When was the last time you got consensus out of a large group?

Creating the crust at the end is the key. It’s not so much about the color as it is about when the fat starts to bubble. You’ve got to watch it carefully. I poured some of the grease out of the pan before I put it back in the oven to create the crust.

I would definitely make this again for a crowd. It’s so easy, inexpensive and the taste is simply astonishing (credit the dry rub).

It was so good in fact that I ate away at a little corner even before I pulled it out of the oven for good. I was full by the time I put it on the table so maybe that little corner wasn’t so little.

Bon Appetit!

Bo Ssam

Pork Butt:

1 (8- to 10-pound) bone-in pork shoulder or pork butt

1 cup granulated white sugar
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon coarse salt
7 tablespoons light-brown sugar

Ginger—Scallion Sauce

Mix:

2 ½ Cups thinly sliced scallions, both green and white part

½ cup peeled, minced fresh ginger
¼ C Grapeseed Oil

1 ½ Tsp. light soy sauce
1 small tsp. sherry vinegar

½ tsp. kosher salt

Ssam Sauce

Mix:

2 Tablespoon fermented bean and chili paste (ssamjang)

1 Tablespoon chili paste (kochujang)
½ Cup sherry vinegar
½ Cup Grapeseed Oil

Accompaniments:

3 cups white rice

3 heads bibb lettuce, separated, washed and dried
Kimchi

Place pork in a large bowl. In a medium bowl, mix together granulated sugar and 1 cup coarse salt. Rub sugar mixture all over pork and cover bowl with plastic wrap; transfer to refrigerator for at least 6 hours and up to overnight.

Preheat oven to 300 degrees.

Transfer pork to a large roasting pan, discarding any accumulated juices (or drain accumulated juices from roasting pan that pork is in). Transfer roasting pan to oven and cook, basting every hour with rendered fat in roasting pan, until meat is tender and easily shredded with a fork, about 6 hours.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix together remaining tablespoon coarse salt and brown sugar; rub mixture all over pork.

Increase oven temperature to 500 degrees. Return pork to oven until sugar has melted into a crisp crust, 10 to 15 minutes.

Serve hot with kimchi, ginger-scallion sauce, ssam sauce, rice, lettuce, and sea salt.

Vosges Haut-Chocolat

2012-01-24T19:36:00.000-06:00

I discovered Vosges Haut-Chocolat creations a few weeks back when I was on Armitage (951 W Armitage) and could not resist buying a few pieces to bring home.

Like all high-quality chocolates, these were meant to be slowly savored to the last experience of incredible flavor.

Owner Katrina Markoff was trained in Paris at Le Cordon Bleu and improved her art through extensive travel. Beginning in Spain at the famed El Bulli restaurant, she traveled and studied the local cuisines of just about every place in the world.

Wouldn’t that be the dream job - traveling around the world to discover the pleasures of chocolate? I want that job!

I believe that travel can put you on the fast track to learning just about anything. In fact, almost everything I’ve learned in my life that has really stuck has been when I was traveling.

Bon Appetit!

Sweets...

2012-01-24T19:34:00.001-06:00

Stashing treats for my sweets.

Never to early to start stock piling for your Valentines.

Bon Appetit!

Bacon Long Johns

2012-01-24T19:31:00.001-06:00

If I’m going to cheat, you might as well put the bacon on it!

Bon Appetit!

And The Winner Is...

2012-01-24T19:29:00.001-06:00

Liberte…for both flavor and unfortunately fat.

Solution? Eat half a serving instead of a whole one and pile on the fruit.

Bon Appetit!

Pink Margaritas

2012-01-17T20:16:00.000-06:00

My recipe for Margaritas was perfected long ago and I usually don’t mess with the ingredients but when my friend Jeff, a master mixologist, suggested that I try using pink grapefruit instead of lime juice, the results were magical.

The addition of the orange flavored liqueur (I used Patron Citronge) was the key to balancing the sour taste of the grapefruit juice. I’m not one to favor brands and often purchase the best buy on the shelf but this Paton liqueur was really smooth.

This would also be the perfect drink to serve for a brunch. It’s a beautiful drink with all of the grapefruit and lime slices. I also liked the combination of the lime and the salt and serving it on top of the drink instead of on the rim.

Use a bigger glass than I did (I try bites and sips) to fit in all the fruit.

Bon Appetit!

Pink Grapefruit Margarita

1 tablespoon finely grated lime rind

1 tablespoon sea salt flakes
2 Cups pink grapefruit juice
½ Cup orange-flavored liqueur
2/3 Cup tequila
¾ Cup caster sugar
Thin slices of grapefruit and lime for granish
Crushed ice

Put lime rind and salt in a mortar and pestle and grind to combine.

Place grapefruit juice, orange flavored liqueur, tequila and sugar in a bowl and mix in sugar until dissolved.

Layer in the grapefruit slices, ornage slices and ice into a 6 cup jug.

Serve with lime salt.

Makes 3 ½ Cups.

Fresh Nutmeg

2012-01-17T20:11:00.000-06:00

Expensive but such a remarkable difference in taste between the fresh and what you buy in the jar.

Inspires me to grate nutmeg on nearly everything!

Bon Appetit!

A Perfect Green Tomato

2012-01-17T20:08:00.000-06:00

How great is it to be in Chicago and score a perfect green, heirloom tomato in the middle of winter?

I happen to love green tomatoes with eggs so this prize was savored – every last bite- for breakfast last weekend.

Bon Appetit!

Charlie Trotters: 1987- 2012

2012-01-17T20:05:00.000-06:00

Charlie Trotters, one of Chicago's most celebrated restaurants is closing.

Trotter plans to travel the world and return to college to study philosophy and political theory.

I say good for him. I am all about learning new things having gone back to school myself recently.

With the closing, 60 full-time employees will lose their jobs. One of them is Joe.

I met Joe on the train a few weeks ago. The young CIA trained chef had just moved here from New York and was so excited about his first day on the job at Charlie Trotters. It was New Year’s Eve day.

Trotter make an announcement that night that would change the course of Joe’s career forever.

I thought about Joe a lot on New Year’s day. Talking with him for that brief, fleeting moment, I am convinced that he will get everything out of his 8 months at Trotter’s, move on to his next job and never look back.

Passion is a difficult quality to conquer.

Bon Appetit!

New Years Eve Day

2012-01-15T16:39:00.001-06:00

On New Years Eve day, we biked Milwaukee Avenue. How often can you say that on December 31^st in Chicago?

We pedaled block after block by occult bookstores, tiny restaurants and bakeries, furniture stores and a mix of ordinary and upscale shops. Trouble was we were early.

This neighborhood was still asleep and many of the shops didn’t open until noon. In fact, just as we were leaving a cheery little bake shop called Lovely’s (1130 N Milwaukee Avenue), the customers started to arrive.

It was 10:00 AM and Milwaukee Avenue was finally awake. Makes me think that I should check out the nightlife in this neighborhood.

Lovely’s poured the perfect cup of coffee (Intelligentsia ), had a vintage pressed tin ceiling (just like the old Chicago bar in Omaha) and some beautiful antiques.

The indulgence of the day: Lunch at Lilly Q’s ( 1856 W. North Avenue) for ribs.

I am happy to report that they are every bit as good as all of the reviews with just a hint of sweetness to the sauce. It may take me awhile before I find another BBQ as good as this one so stay tuned.

The fries were so amazing and were smothered in a rub called Carolina Dirt which is a blend of paprika, sugar, salt, onion powder, chili powder, mustard, garlic powder, oregano, jalapenos and again…a few secret spices.

OK, like Eischens in Oklahoma City, here goes that secret spice thing again.

One resolution for New Years: to educate myself on spices and even try to make some personal blends.

Lilly Q’s chef Charlie McKenna has won a lot of awards on the competition barbeque circuit including the top prize at Memphis this past May -- which is commonly considered as the world championship of barbeque.

I bought a bag of his Carolina Dirt rub (buy it online) and immediately went home and re-made the French fries they were that good.

So, here I was eating this magnificent meal today while I was planning my next one. Truth be told, I am usually two or three meals ahead of myself so this was a kick-back day … except for the biking home. After all the food, I would have been really happy to find a designated driver.

Bon Appetit!

Ice Cream: Pass The Häagen-Dazs

2012-01-15T16:29:00.000-06:00

I love good ice cream and Häagen-Dazs is so hard to beat…that is with the exception of homemade.

Here is their new Caramel Cone ice cream with butterscotch and honey roasted pecans.

This sundae was a great treat…even for breakfast!

And for anyone who made that run of the mill New Year’s resolution- like I did- I took out all of the calories.

Bon Appetit!

Vietnamese Salad

2012-01-15T16:24:00.000-06:00

Hand down, this is my all time favorite Vietnamese recipe. It is so easy and you can interchange the pork with chicken or shrimp.

In fact, this was one of the best cooking instructionals ever from Fine Cooking magazine.

Here is the link to making impressive Vietnamese salads:

http://www.finecooking.com/articles/how-to/vietnamese-noodle-salads.aspx

For the noodles:
8 oz. dried rice vermicelli

For the pork or beef:
1/4 cup sugar
2 large shallots, sliced, or 5 scallions (white parts only), chopped
2 tsp. fish sauce
2 tsp. soy sauce
Pinch salt
2 Tbs. vegetable oil
1-1/2 lb. pork loin or sirloin, sliced into large pieces about 1/4-inch thick

For the garnishes:
2 cups washed and shredded romaine, red, or green leaf lettuce
2 cups fresh, crisp bean sprouts
1-1/2 cups peeled, seeded, and julienned cucumber
1/3 to 1/2 cup roughly chopped or small whole mint leaves
1/3 to 1/2 cup roughly chopped or small basil or Thai basil leaves
2 Tbs. chopped roasted peanuts
12 sprigs fresh cilantro
1 recipe Nuoc Cham (Vietnamese Dipping Sauce)

Cook the noodles:

Bring a medium potful of water to a rolling boil. Add the rice vermicelli and, stirring often, cook them until the strands are soft and white, but still resilient, 3 to 5 minutes. Don't be tempted to undercook them, as they must be fully cooked to absorb the flavors of the dish. Rinse them in a colander under cold water just until they're cool and the water runs clear. Let the noodles drain in the colander for 30 minutes, and then set them aside for up to 2 hours, unrefrigerated.

Marinate and cook the pork or beef:

Combine the sugar with 1/2 cup water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Stir a few times and allow to simmer until the sauce turns deep brown, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, have some extra hot water ready on a back burner. Once the sauce reaches the desired color, carefully add 4 to 5 Tbs. hot water to slow the cooking and thin the sauce. (Be sure to hold the pan away from you so that none of the hot caramel splatters on you when you add the water.) If necessary, add more hot water. The sauce should only be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Set aside to cool.

Pound the shallots in a mortar and pestle or mince by hand. Transfer the shallots to a mixing bowl and combine with the fish sauce, soy sauce, salt, vegetable oil, and cooled caramel marinade. Stir well to blend. Add the pork or beef slices and let marinate for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, heat a broiler or light a charcoal or gas grill. When the broiler or fire is very hot, cook the pork or beef until just done, about 2 minutes on each side. Let the pork or beef rest for 10 to 15 minutes, and cut into thin strips.

Assemble the salads:

Divide the lettuce, bean sprouts, cucumber, mint, and basil among four large soup or pasta bowls. Fluff the noodles with your fingers and divide them among the prepared salad bowls. Put the grilled pork on the noodles and garnish each bowl with the peanuts and cilantro. Pass the nuoc cham at the table; each diner should drizzle about 3 Tbs. over the salad and then toss the salad in the bowl a few times with two forks or chopsticks before eating.

Bon Appetit!

Lincoln Park: Breakfast, Lunch and Home By Dinner

2012-01-10T07:19:00.000-06:00

Breakfast: Toast

With just 12 tables, this tiny spot at 746 West Webster is cozy, has great service and cooks up the best Steak Eggs Benedict ever.

The steak was so perfectly cooked and tender I almost forgot that I was having breakfast.

Lunch: Simply It

At 2269 North Lincoln Avenue, I knew I was in the right place – even thought the name is misleading- because most of the customers were Asian.

The chicken soup: Full of flavor…unusual flavor that would be impossible to recreate without a recipe. Although it’s tempting, I’m not even going to punish myself and try.

Egg Rolls: I love Vietnamese egg rolls and use to travel to Minneapolis often just to eat them at Que Viet Vietnamese Restaurant.

Well travel no more because these were just as good and the perfect little mini size.

The wrappers are superbly crunchy and the dipping sauce is classic and light. Yes, we’re all talking light for the new years.

Let’s see if I learn any kitchen confidentials on making Nuoc Cham when I am in Vietnam this year.

6 tablespoons fresh lime juice

3 tablespoons Asian fish sauce (preferably nuoc mam)
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup warm water
1 garlic clove, forced through a garlic press
2 small thin fresh red or green Asian chilies (1 to 2 inches long) or serrano chilies, seeded and chopped fine (wear rubber gloves)

Mix in a small bowl.

Main Dish: Vietnamese Pork Chops

This recipe tastes just like the pork chops I ate at the restaurant. It is also from the January/February edition of Saveur which I think is one of their best issues ever. Every recipe I have cooked so far has been textbook.

The restaurant used honey in theit marinate. This one calls for caramelizing the sugar which is the way I have always done Vietnamese recipes.

½ cup plus 2 tbsp. sugar
⅓ cup thinly sliced shallots
¼ cup thinly sliced lemongrass
2 tbsp. peanut oil
2 tbsp. soy sauce
1½ tbsp. fish sauce
1 tbsp. ground black pepper
8 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 lb. ¼″-thick pork blade chops, pounded thin
Cooked white rice and nuoc cham (Vietnamese chili-garlic sauce), for serving

Heat ½ cup of sugar in a 1-qt. heavy bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat, swirling pan often, until sugar dissolves and turns to liquid caramel. Remove from heat; add ¼ cup boiling water. Return pan to heat; cook, swirling pan gently, until caramel dissolves in water. Remove from heat and let cool. Transfer to a food processor along with remaining sugar, shallots, lemongrass, oil, soy sauce, fish sauce, pepper, and garlic; purée until smooth. Place pork chops in a 9″ × 13″ baking dish and pour over purée; cover with plastic wrap and chill at least 1 hour or overnight.

Heat a 12″ cast-iron grill pan over high heat. Working in batches, add chops; cook, turning once, until charred in spots and cooked through, about 2 minutes. Serve immediately with rice and chili-garlic sauce.

Puerco Asada

2012-01-10T07:09:00.000-06:00

When it comes to holiday classics, we love Puerco Asada (Cuban Style Pork Roast) which comes from Kyle’s mom and is a quick study on how to cook a perfect pork roast and give it a new twist. The trick is to crisp the outer skin while the roast itself is still tender and moist.
Really watch your cooking time. I checked it in half hour increments after I cooked it for 1 1/2 hours covered. Once you’ve cooked it once or twice, this hesitation is over and you are good to not pay attention while it is cooking.

This recipe is a classic and was first published in Gourmet in November, 1998.

Some cooks use oranges in Puerco Asada. It’s really just a matter of preference.

I know a lot of people who cook this recipe at low heat and turn it up to 475 or 500 degrees for the last 20 minutes.

When I first saw this recipe, I actually wondered if 375 degrees was too high to cook a pork roast for 4 hours. Happy to report that it wasn’t and I found this recipe was the best for crisping the skin.

This is my new favorite pork roast recipe and absolutely winter perfect.

Bon Appetit!

6 limes

8 garlic cloves
3 tablespoons salt
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon ground cumin
8-pound bone-in fresh pork picnic shoulder with skin
3 cups water
6 tablespoons vinegar

Preheat oven to 375°F.

Squeeze enough juice from limes to measure 1 cup. Mince garlic.

In a bowl stir together 3 tablespoons lime juice, garlic, 2 1/2 tablespoons salt, oregano, and cumin.

Pat pork dry and with a sharp small knife make 1-inch-long by 3/4-inch-deep incisions 2 inches apart in pork skin.

Push about 1 teaspoon garlic mixture into each incision and rub remainder on meaty ends not covered by skin.

Transfer pork to a large roasting pan (about 18 by 12 by 2 inches) and pour remaining lime juice around pork.

Roast pork, uncovered, in middle of oven until most of juice is evaporated and brown bits begin to form on bottom of pan, about 30 minutes.

In a bowl stir together water and vinegar and pour mixture around pork.

Cover pan tightly with foil and roast 1 hour. With a small ladle baste meat only (not skin) with pan juices and roast pork, covered, 1 hour.

With cleaned sharp small knife gently loosen skin from meat (without cutting through skin) and with a spoon baste meat under skin with pan juices. Sprinkle remaining 1/2 tablespoon salt over skin and roast pork, uncovered, basting meat (not skin) every 20 minutes, 1 1/2 hours more, or until skin is crisp.

Transfer pork to a cutting board, reserving pan juices, and let stand 20 minutes. Skim fat from reserved pan juices.

Cut pork into 1/4-inch-thick slices and serve with pan juices.

The Simple Joy of A Southern Christmas

2012-01-08T17:25:00.002-06:00

Ask anyone what their favorite food is and I guarantee if they’ve had Southern, they’ll place it at the top of their list.

Southern food is the perfect comfort food and Christmas was all about comfort.

Here are some of the things that I loved about being back in the South again.

The Ham
Yes, Ham is a holiday classic and actually, for breakfast, lunch or dinner, I could do ham any time. It’s one of my favorite meats.

Soak a ham overnight in apple juice to remove the salt and change the juice once or twice.
Before you cook the ham rub it with an orange, stud it with cloves and during baking baste it with cider.

Once the ham is cooked, deglaze the drippings with brandy (as little or as much as you want) and reduce it to sauce.

We also did sweet potatoes which are not my favorite but hey – nothing that a lot of butter and brown sugar can’t cure.

My son got the River Road Cookbook (first edition) which I think is one of the best, old Louisiana cookbooks. If you want to know how to cook perfect white gravy, you have your choice of thin, medium or thick.

Presents: We all (see I’ve slipped back into my southern drawl again) got kitchen toys and I continue to be inspired that people are so passionate about cooking together.

Like Pizzas…and we cooked a lot of them.

Jessica’s Pizza Dough

3 cups warm water
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup oil
1 1/2 tbsp yeast
2 tsp salt
7 1/2-8 cups flour

Mix first 3 ingredients in mixing bowl. Add in yeast and salt. Then add in flour. Knead all together and put in large bowl. Cover for 2-4 hours. Bake at 350 for 20 minutes or bake on a preheated pizza stone for 7-10 minutes at 500.

Jessica prebaked the pizza crust in a 350 oven for about 7 minutes, took it out and topped it and then put it back in the oven for another 13 minutes. All of her pizzas were delicious. We especially loved the BBQ chicken of which my son was the pizza chef.

We also preheated a pizza stone for 45 minutes at 500 degrees and cooked one for 7 – 10 minutes just so she could taste the difference with the pizza stone. We agreed that we liked the one cooked on the stone the best as there is such a remarkable difference in the outcome of the crust.

I still use my time-honored pizza dough recipe that I’ve made since 1987. It’s from James McNair’s Pizza cookbook.

Basic Pizza Dough

1 tbsp. sugar
1 cup warm water (110-115 degrees f.)
1 envelope quick-rising active dry yeast (1/4 ounce)
3 1/4 cups flour
1 tsp. salt
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

In a small bowl, dissolve the sugar in warm tap water that registers 110-115 degrees F.

Sprinkle yeast over water and stir gently until it dissolves, about 1 minute. When yeast is mixed with the water at the proper temperature, a smooth, beige-colored mixture results. Let stand in a warm spot until a thin layer of foam covers the surface, about 5 minutes, indicating that the yeast is effective.

To mix and knead the dough by hand, combine 3 cups of the flour with the salt in a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the center of the flour and pour in the yeast mixture and the oil. Using a wooden spoon, vigorously stir the flour into the well, beginning in the center and working toward the sides of the bowl, until the flour is incorporated and the soft dough just begins to hold together.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Dust your hands with flour and knead the dough gently in the following manner: press down on the dough with the heels of your hands and push it away from you, then partially fold it back over itself. Shift it a quarter turn and repeat the procedure. While kneading, very gradually add just enough of the remaining ¼ cup of flour until the dough is no longer sticky or tacky; this should take about 5 minutes. As you work, use a metal dough scraper to pry up any bits of dough that stick to the work surface. Continue kneading until the dough is smooth, elastic, and shiny, 10 to 15 minutes longer. Knead the dough only until it feels smooth and springy; too much kneading overdevelops the gluten in the flour and results in a tough crust.

If you have a Kitchen Aid (my son gave me one for Christmas in OSU Orange) use your dough hook and let the machine knead it for 5 minutes. Now I wonder why I waited so long to get one.

After mixing and kneading the dough, shape the dough into a ball and place it in a well-oiled bowl, turning to coat completely on all sides with oil. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap, and set to rise in a draft free warm place (75-85 degrees) until doubled in bulk, about 45 minutes for quick-rising yeast, or 1 to 1 ½ hours for regular.

With your fist, punch down the dough as soon as it has doubled in bulk to prevent overrising. Shape it into a ball, pressing out all the air bubbles.

Top and cook in a preheated 500 degree oven for 7 -10 minutes

I also love Davanti Enoteca’s breakfast pizza. The recipe: Béchamel sauce, scallions, asiago cheese, potato, pork belly and a farmed egg on top. I’ve tried twice to make it at home (use a mandolin to slice the potatoes) and although it was good, it just doesn’t taste like Davanti’s. I can usually figure out a recipe so I’ve concluded that it must be the atmosphere at Davanti that makes their pizza taste so good.

Redrock (9916 Riverside Pkwy, Tulsa) Ribs and potatoes – another great repeat performance and high marks for their classic Margarita –

almost as good as mine and at $7 a pop, you get a drink and a half to share with your mom.

I loved the breakfast at BBDII (8218 S Harvard, Tulsa)… even if it was my son’s breakfast I loved instead of mine. Conclusion: Let your son order your breakfast. It’s a safe bet.

Classics: Claude’s Hamburgers (since 1954) and Weber’s Root Beer (since 1933).

New Classics: Cranberry Infused Vodka. This is so good in a Christmas cocktails you’ll want to start the blend weeks in advance of the holidays.

Place cranberries in bowl of food processor and pulse until coarsely chopped.
Combine vodka and cranberries. Cover and let stand for at least 2 weeks. Strain with fine mesh sieve into a bowl; discard solids.

Transfer to sterilized bottles that seal airtight; refrigerate.

Going down to Cherry Street and my old haunt, the Petroleum Club, was memory lane, as was Cain’s Ballroom where Hank Williams Jr. has planted his star.

Tulsa has changed. Going to the Blue Dome District was a whole new Tulsa for me.

I bought my son a Christmas tree this year, cut fresh and shipped to his door. I wanted him to have the best Christmas ever.

As I do each year, I bought him some new ornaments to remind him of the year passed - his celebrated Margaritaville party, a Florida vacation where he pulled star fish out of the ocean in the early AM light, and the Cubs (another season come and gone but we still for eternity BELIEVE). Events that he can now look back on and always remember.

We spent Friday night at our number one restaurant: Flemings. (1976 Utica Sqaure). They have small plates on the menu now including my favorite: the Lamb Riblets.

A Side Trip To OKC:

Loved Pinkizels (150 N. E Gaylord Blvd)– Malted Milk and Salted Caramel cupcakes. A renowned bakery with a few surprising treats…like white chocolate candy with pecans and caramel.

OKC Memorial and Wall: Overpowering. In a place of such somber remembrance, the tranquility, at first sight, clearly took my breath away with a single view.

Eischens: does the oldest bar in Oklahoma have the best chicken in the world? Got my vote after hearing that they serve 24,000 pieces of fried chicken a week.

What’s in the recipe? Wheat flour, corn meal, salt, baking powder, sugar, paprika and a whole lot of other secret spices. Deep fry at 330 degrees for 15 minutes.

We also had Frito Chili Pie which is definitely an Oklahoma obsession although when I got back home to Chicago, I laughed when I saw that my new Saveur Magazine had posted this recipe from Mabel’s Smokehouse, an Oklahoma-style BBQ restaurant in Brooklyn.

Actually, this is one of the best chili recipes that I have made recently. It has a genuine Oklahoma kick to it.

Frito Pie

2 ½ pounds ground beef
2 tbsp. olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Kosher salt to taste
2 tbsp. cumin
2 tbsp. chili powder
2 tbsp. dried oregano
2 tbsp. black pepper
1 ½ tsp. garlic powder
1 tbsp. paprika
1 ½ tsp. cayenne pepper
2 bay leaves
3 cups whole peeled tomatoes in juice, pureed
1 10.2 oz bag Fritos-brand corn chips
Toppings: shredded white and cheddar cheese, sour cream, sliced jalapenos, minced red onion, sliced scallions and cilantro leaves.

Work in batched, add beef to a 6 quart saucepan over medium-high heat. Cook until browned, about 10 minutes. Drain and return to heart with oil,

Add onion and cook, stirring until caramelized, about 15 minutes.

Add garlic, season with salt and coo until garlic is soft and lightly browned, about 5 minutes.

Add all the spices, beef, tomatoes and 1 ½ cups of water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 45 minutes.

Divide chips among 6 serving bowls and top with chili and all of the toppings.

The Party’s Over:

In a blink of an eye, the holidays have come and gone. As always, food was a major part of our holiday journey. Remember - The benefit of eating together as a family is as significant as the food you cook.

I know your holiday was the perfect combination of tradition and magnificent feasting.

Bon Appetit and Let’s Do It Again Next Year!

2011: The Year In Pictures

2012-01-01T22:14:00.000-06:00

January 2012: Maxwell Street Market

2012-01-01T22:06:00.002-06:00

Countdown To New Years

2011-12-31T05:49:00.002-06:00

I love breakfast and if given the choice, I would have bacon and eggs over just about anything. In fact, I like it so much, I often have it for dinner.

Unlike most meals, I somehow never feel “legally responsible” for breakfast because my mother always told me to eat a good one and I do… but just on the weekends or on holidays.

I had Eggs Benedict and Cheese Grits for Christmas and plan to make a Mexican brunch on New Year’s Day.

It’s not the same old breakfast people are use to getting and there is nothing easier for an enormous crowd than Mexican. These recipes also taste delightful for anyone nursing a bit of a hangover.

You can find the recipes for the Queso Fundido and Salsa Verde on my recipe page.

Serve with miniature Margaritas,

Bloody Mary’s and

Patron and lime with a straw.

Miniatures just so you don’t forget how good this breakfast actually is.

Bon Appetit and Happy New Years!

Carnitas

adapted from Diana Kennedy
3 pounds of pork butt, with plenty of fat
1 cup of orange juice
3 cups of water
2 teaspoons of salt

Cut pork into strips (three inches by one inch), add to a large pot with the liquids and salt. Bring to a boil and then simmer uncovered on low for 2 hours.

Turn heat up to medium high, and continue to cook until all the liquid has evaporated and the pork fat has rendered - about 45 minutes

When pork has browned on both sides, it’s ready (there will be liquid fat in the pan).

Serve shredded on a tortilla with Salsa Verde.

How easy is this recipe...
Beef Shank

Salt and pepper the meat. Brown on the stovetop.

Place in slow cooker and cover with 1 cup of beef broth.

Cook on low 8-10 hours.

Serve on tortilla with a pile of Pico de Gallo.

Pico de Gallo

Five plum (Roma) tomatoes

1/2 large or 1 small onion
3 jalapeno peppers
Handful of cilantro
lime juice
salt

Chop tomatoes, onion, jalapeno and cilantro. Squeeze with fresh lime juice and season with salt.

Dessert for Breakfast? I’m not into cookies but this is one of my favorite recipes. Easy and so addicted with the caramel. I'll serve these along with Rosettes and butter cookie cutouts.

Caramel Pecan Cookie

1 cup butter, softened

3/4 cup packed brown sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1-3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
30 caramels, halved and flattened
2 cups (12 ounces) semisweet chocolate chips
1 tablespoon shortening
pecans

In a large bowl, cream butter and brown sugar until light and fluffy. Beat in vanilla. Combine flour and baking powder; gradually add to creamed mixture and mix well.

Roll into 1-in. balls. Place 2 in. apart on greased baking sheets; flatten slightly. Bake at 325° for 12-15 minutes or until golden brown. Remove to wire racks to cool.

Place a half-caramel on each cookie. Melt the chocolate chips and shortening; drizzle over cookies. Top with pecans. Let stand until firm. Yield: 5 dozen.

Christmas Giving

2011-12-31T05:39:00.001-06:00

My neighbors and I exchanged holiday gifts this past week.

After all the BBQ’s and dinner we enjoyed together this past year, they know my guilty pleasure. 10 bottles of Franciscan and counting.

We can absolutely have another party with this haul.

Bon Appetit and THANKS!

Tis The Season To Cheat

2011-12-18T10:59:00.007-06:00

I recently read that the worst holiday drink is a Starbuck’s Venti 2% Peppermint White Chocolate Mocha which came in at a monstrous 660 calories, 22 grams of fat (14 saturated) and 95 grams of sugar. Last week, I would have looked for another beverage but this week – coming into the start of the holiday season- I say bring it on. In fact, make mine a Trenta.

I can cheat for a few weeks? Starting this minute so don’t try to slow me down or put on my brakes until January 2^nd. Will I go crazy and eat everything in sight? Possibly. Probably. Reading through the lines, that’s a definite Yes.

Fact of the matter is, I just don’t have any self control when it comes to Christmas. It’s my favorite holiday.

I am one to take full advantage of a cheat and here’s why. For a gigantic part of the year we try to watch our calories, fat and sugar and do everything by the book but for the next few weeks it’s party time.

We got a little joyful ( ‘Tis the season) testing these holiday drink recipes unlike last year when I threw a few gumdrops in a martini and called it a holiday drink. Funny thing was that it was a hit. This year we poured over a lot of recipes and selected the following 14 as our drinks of the season.

They are adaptable and you can increase or eliminate the alcohol in them all together. It’s Christmas so use your recipe magic.

I personally got into the mood by dressing the part. Falling off my platform reds is an exercise that I have to carry out at least once a year.

Can I pick a favorite? Like a true holiday party girl, I loved them all!

Bon Appetit!

Gingerbread Punch

3cups water

2 12-ounce bottles Guinness stout
¾ cup sugar

1/2 cup finely chopped peeled fresh ginger

12 whole cloves
3 cinnamon sticks, broken in half
3 whole cardamom pods, cracked
1 orange

1 ½ cups dark rum

Lightly sweetened whipped cream
Ground cinnamon

Combine first 7 ingredients in large saucepan. Using vegetable peeler, remove peel from orange in strips (orange part only) and add to stout mixture. Bring to simmer over medium heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Simmer over medium-low heat 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand 15 minutes. Strain liquid into bowl; discard solids in strainer. Cover and refrigerate punch at least 8 hours or overnight.

Combine chilled punch and rum in large saucepan and bring to simmer over medium-low heat. Pour hot punch into small teacups or large demitasse cups.

Top with whipped cream and cinnamon.

Holiday Mojitos

Lime Wedge

Superfine Sugar
Marinated Cranberries
3 lime wedges
3 Orange wedges
3 fresh mint leaves
1 ½ ounces rum
1 ounce orange bitters
1 ounce cranberry juice
1 ounce fresh orange juice
1 ounce Mint Syrup

Cracked ice

Club soda

Rub a lime wedge around rim of a glass, and dip in superfine sugar. Place 3 rounded teaspoonfuls of Marinated Cranberries in the glass; muddle until berries are crushed. Add 3 lime wedges, orange wedges, and mint leaves; muddle. Stir in rum, orange bitters, cranberry juice, fresh orange juice, and Mint Syrup. Add cracked ice, and top with club soda. Stir.

*To make, cover fresh cranberries with orange-flavored rum for 2 days to 2 weeks

Pear Martini

1 ounce pear vodka or pear brandy

1 ounce spiced rum
1 ounce pear nectar, apple juice, or orange juice

Cinnamon sugar

Garnish: sliced pear

Combine pear vodka or pear brandy, spiced rum, and pear nectar, apple juice, or orange juice in an ice-filled shaker. Shake vigorously, and strain into a cocktail glass rimmed with cinnamon sugar. Garnish with a sliced pear.

Holiday Pear Margarita

1 ounce reposado tequila

1 ounce pear nectar or juice
1/2 ounce Simple Syrup
1/2 ounce fresh lime juice

1 1/2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon chopped cilantro, plus 1 small cilantro sprig for garnish

Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add all of the ingredients except the cilantro sprig and shake well. Pour into a chilled margarita glass and garnish with the cilantro sprig

Hot Cider Nog

2 cups half-and-half

1 cup milk
1 cup apple cider
2 large eggs
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 cup bourbon (optional)
Sweetened whipped cream
Garnishes: cinnamon sticks, ground cinnamon, apple slices

Whisk together half-and-half, milk, apple cider, eggs, sugar, 1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon, salt, and nutmeg in a heavy saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, whisking constantly, 15 to 20 minutes or until mixture thickens and coats a spoon.

Remove from heat; stir in bourbon, if desired. Top each serving with sweetened whipped cream. Garnish, if desired.

Christmas Brown Punch

2 cups water

1/4 teaspoon allspice

1 teaspoon grated nutmeg

2 cinnamon sticks

4 cardamom pods, cracked

1 apple sliced

1/2 cup brown sugar

3 bottles honey amber lager

9 oz rum

Add the water, allspice, nutmeg, cinnamon sticks, cardamom pods, apple slices and brown sugar to a large saucepan set over medium heat. Stir frequently to dissolve the sugar. Let the mixture reach a slight boil, turn the heat to low, and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the lager and rum allowing to heat, but not to boil. Remove spices. Pour into glasses… transfer the apple slices as well. Makes 6 servings.

Salted Caramel Mocha

1 cup milk

1 cup hot, strong coffee
1 tablespoon cocoa
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons caramel sauce
½ shot rum or brandy

For the topping:

1/8 teaspoon kosher salt

1/8 teaspoon sugar

Whipped cream

Caramel sauce

In a medium saucepan, heat milk over low heat until very hot. Remove from heat and froth milk with a frother, whisk or immersion blender. Or, pour into a Mason jar, screw on lid and shake until very frothy.

While the milk is heating, whisk together the coffee, cocoa, sugar and caramel sauce. Split the coffee mixture between two mugs.

Pour the hot milk and foam into the coffee, dividing evenly between the two mugs. Add the liquor.

For the topping, mix together salt and sugar. Top each mug with whipped cream, a drizzle of caramel sauce and a hefty sprinkling of the salt and sugar mixture. Makes 2 servings.

White Chocolate Eggnog

1 quart eggnog

1/2 cup white rum
1/2 cup white chocolate liqueur
1 cup whipped topping
Grated white chocolate, for garnish
Pumpkin pie spice, for garnish

In a punch bowl, combine the egg nog, rum, and white chocolate liqueur. When you are ready to serve, whisk the egg nog to make it frothy and pour the mixture into cups.

Place 1 heaping tablespoon of the whipped topping into each cup. Garnish each with the grated white chocolate and a sprinkling of pumpkin pie spice.

Peppermint Patty

1/2 oz. crème de cacao

1/2 oz. peppermint schnapps
1 oz. cream

Stir with ice, strain into shot glass.

Candy Cane Martini

1-1/2 oz vodka

1 tsp peppermint schnapps

Mix all ingredients with ice in a shaker. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass.
Option: Garnish with a small candy cane or create a candy cane rim with crushed candy canes.

Mexican Hot Cocoa

2cups reduced-fat (2 percent) evaporated milk

1/2cupwhole milk
1/2cupchocolate liqueur
1teaspoonvanilla extract
1/4cupsugar
1tablespoonunsweetened cocoa
1 1/2teaspoonsground cinnamon
1/4teaspoonancho chili powder
10cinnamon sticks
1dried red chile
2 1/2ozbittersweet chocolate, broken into pieces
1/4cupheavy whipping cream

Whisk evaporated milk, whole milk, liqueur, vanilla, sugar, cocoa, 1 tsp of cinnamon and chili powder in a heavy saucepan. Add 2 of the cinnamon sticks and chili and cook gently over medium-low heat until warm. Add chocolate and cook, whisking until melted. Gently bring to a high simmer; reduce heat and simmer until liquid thickens and reduces slightly, whisking often, 10 minutes. Combine heavy cream with remaining 1/2 tsp cinnamon and beat until peaks form. Ladle 1/3 cup hot cocoa each into 8 teacups; top each with 1 tbsp whipped cream and garnish with a cinnamon stick. Serves 8.

I rimed the glass with a blend of chili spices. Delicious!

Bloody Mary Martini

1 medium-sized piece fresh horseradish, peeled and julienned

20 black peppercorns
1 pint vodka
5 cups chopped ripe tomatoes
½ teaspoon celery salt

4 celery stalks

Place horseradish and peppercorns in vodka bottle; seal; chill at least 24 hours. Puree tomatoes; drain with fine-mesh sieve; discard pulp. Add celery salt. Fill a shaker with ice; add 2 oz vodka (not peppercorns or horseradish), 1 oz tomato puree; shake.

Strain into martini glass. I used a cute little wine glass instead. Garnish with celery. I used a pickle – my favorite garnish for a Bloody Mary. .Serves 4.

You think these are just for kids? About 2 weeks into the holiday parties, I’m all about the Milk Shooters.

Candy Cane Milk Shooters

1 % milk

Mini-Candy Canes

Crush a few candy canes until they are dust and use them to rim two shot glasses. Fill each glass with milk and dip a candy cane in right before serving. Enjoy!

Last but not least…if you get into it and have too much holiday fun, try this for a morning after cure. It works especially well if you add a shot of whatever it was that did you in the night before.

The Cure

Lemons

Seltzer water

1 cup sugar

5 tsp. red pepper flakes
1/4 tsp. salt

6″ of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped

Combine 2 cups of water, salt, ginger, sugar, and red pepper flakes in a pan over the stove.

Bring the mixture to a boil and then reduce the heat and let it simmer for 10 minutes.

Remove the pan from heat and let it sit, covered, until it is cool.

Strain the syrup into a jar and put it in the fridge to chill.

Fill a tall glass with ice.

Put 2 Tbsp. of the spicy-giner syrup and a lemon wedge into a glass. Add a shot of what ever you drank the night before.

Fill the glass with soda water and stir.

The Parthenon

2011-12-18T10:30:00.001-06:00

One of my very first weekends in Chicago, right around Christmas, a business associate took me to The Parthenon (314 S Halstead) for a party that resulted in me missing my train stop on the way home and having to cab it back…a long way. When you do it once, you’ll likely not do it again. A lesson learned immediately and you blame it on the Roditis and swear you’ll never drink it again…until the next time you go to Greektown. Let’s face it - anything brewed in the basement of a restaurant deserves a second taste.

My introduction to Greek food that night stuck as a lasting affection and I have since celebrated so many memorable events in Greektown. It is one of my favorite places in Chicago and the next time you want to have a grand celebration at a nominal price, head to The Parthenon.

I’ve done every restaurant in Greektown and it still does it the best.

Here are some of my favorite traditions at Christmas.

Bon Appetit!

Saganaki

4 ½ ounces, ¾ inch thick of Kasseri-style cheese or Talagani
Flour
Light Olive oil
1 Egg (beaten)
Brandy
1/4 Lemon

Pour olive oil in pan – ½ “ depth. Heat oil over medium high heat.

Put egg in one flat bowl and flour in another.

Dip cheese in egg hen in flour to coat.

Fry in oil.

Cheese should be crisp on the outside and soft on the inside.

When done remove with tongs and drain on paper towel.

Splash with brandy and light.

Squeeze lemon juice over cheese and serve.

Fried Eggplant

½ eggplant cut thin
flour
Olive oil for frying

Coat with flour and fry in batches. Don’t overcrowd the pan.

Drain on paper towels.

Shake on Alatopiperigano (1/2 teaspoon salt, 2 teaspoons dried oregano and a few grinds of black pepper).

Serve with Tzatziki

3 tbsp. olive oil

1 tbsp. vinegar

2 cloves garlic, minced finely

1/2 tsp. salt

1/4 tsp. white pepper

1 cup greek yogurt, strained

1 cup sour cream

2 cucumbers, peeled, seeded and diced

Combine olive oil, vinegar, garlic, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Mix until well combined. Using a whisk, blend the yogurt with the sour cream. Add the olive oil mixture to the yogurt mixture and mix well. Finally, add the cucumber and chopped fresh dill. Chill for at least two hours before serving.

Greek Salad

8 small ripe tomatoes, quartered
1 cucumber, sliced thick on the diagonal
1 small red onion, thinly sliced (they did not use)
18 Kalamata olives, drained
2 small handfuls purslane
1/4 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
5-ounce slab feta
1 teaspoon or so dried oregano
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, optional

Put the tomatoes, cucumber, onion, olives and capers into a serving bowl. Add the purslane or arugula; season with salt and a few grinds of pepper. Put the feta on top; crumble the oregano over with your fingers. Drizzle the olive oil over, as well as the vinegar if using. Serve with bread.

Lamb Ribs

As many lamb ribs as you feel like devouring.

Rub them with Alatopiperigano (1/2 teaspoon salt, 2 teaspoons dried oregano and a few grinds of black pepper)

Put them in a foil covered baking pan and cook them for 2 to 3 hours at 225 degrees.

Brown under the broiler or sear them quickly on very hot grill.

A Passport To Ethnic Cooking

2011-12-18T10:14:00.001-06:00

Both of these cookbooks took me out of Chicago on a magnificent journey with their photographs (visuals are the key) and their timeless ethnic techniques. They reminded me why I love to cook and travel.

They go together don’t they? Food and Travel. I rarely think of one without the other anymore even if it’s just a trip to downtown Chicago.

So what’s the mark of a good cookbook? Makes you either want to get in your kitchen and instantly start chopping or hop the next flight to Greece or Morocco and pop in on a local restaurant or street food cart.

There is little distance between you and the rest of the world when you take a trip inside a cookbook.

Bon Appetit!

Food from Many Greek Kitchens

From one of my favorite cookbook authors, Tessa Kiros's, Food from Many Greek Kitchens is the follow-up to her best-selling Venezia and Falling Cloudberries.

The book is brilliantly photographed and is filled with classic recipes such as my all time Greek favorite Saganaki.

Her introductions make you want to try everything. Here is what she has to say about Vassilopitta: "In Greece, everyone has a vassilopitta (cake) at New Year. The wonderful thing about this cake is that a flouri (coin) is added before baking. If you're lucky to get the piece with the coin, you'll be blessed for the year.

Much like the King cake in New Orleans, the Greek’s have a wonderful sense of celebration.

The BEST part: You’ll get so engaged in the photographs, you’ll want to book yourself on the next flight to Athens.

Mourad: New Moroccan

Mourad Lahlou is one of my favorite chefs. He came to San Francisco by way of Morocco and works miracles with traditional Moroccan recipes by putting his own twist and reworking them. The result: a new Moroccan that is my latest favorite addiction.

“Mourad: New Moroccan”, is a personal, unconventional masterpiece that springs from his mother and grandfather, who raised him in Morocco. His mother taught him to cook time-honored dishes and his grandfather took him to the local markets.

I want a grandfather like that. Having grown up without one, I can appreciate the impression that the local markets must have left on Mourad. Even now when I go to the markets every Saturday in season, I am taken back by the strong influence of the local farmer.

With a PBS TV series, this cookbook, an "Iron Chef" victory and a Michelin star under his belt, many cooks I know are experimenting with his recipes.

Again the photographs of the Morocco I remember are absolutely stunning and will definitely make you want to learn (or relearn) how to prepare Moroccan food.

The Slurping Turtle

2011-12-18T10:10:00.000-06:00

At 116 West Hubbard, the Slurping Turtle has high marks from food critics and fans alike.

We ducked in at 11:00 AM to dig into two small plates – the duck fat fried chicken and the pork belly – both worthy of all the praise they have been receiving recently.

I would be in the mood for some of the slurping noodles if it were a typical December day but it’s forty degrees outside so just give me a round of the Bad Hair Day of Shrimp (honestly that is a small plate) and a Lobster Corn Dog. I feel a winter picnic coming on.

Bon Appetit!