Saturday, May 2, 2015

Just Like Home


Having good food and service meets a minimum requirement when it comes to dining out these days. A restaurant has to offer more.

These SMA restaurants are all very different but have one thing in common; they know it's the little things that differentiate their restaurant from the next.  

I am as dedicated to the owners as I am to their food…one of the many reasons that these restaurants feel just like home.

Buen Apetit!

augamiel cocina rustica
Pipila 3A
  
You all know Chef Gaby Green, a restaurant legend in San Miguel forever. Chef Sandor Rodriguez spent time at The Restaurant as sous chef to Donny Masterton and recently worked with ex-Cafe Rama chef Jason Mallof in Nelson, BC. Together, with media savvy co-owner Jennifer Posner, you get a fine-tuned team that not only understands good food but also knows how to make a table full of customers happy.


They begin your meal with great bread; augamiel buys theirs from the bakery down the street, Buonforno, and then pairs it with a delicious Baba ganoush; a Levantine dish of cooked eggplant mixed with olive oil and various seasonings. They've kept it secret and little wonder since this one is superb.


I tried their signature dish, the Fried Avocado Taco. Slather black bean spread on a taco, top it with a fried, panko-crusted slice of avocado, kimchi and a touch of spicy mayo for just $30 pesos. This is one of the best new takes on a taco that I've had recently.


The Panuchos are tortillas with a spread of black beans, cochinita pibil, habanero sauce and pickled red onions. This gets high marks as the combination of flavors was surprising and delicious. In fact, nothing we ate at augamiel cocina rustica was predictable. That’s one of the many things I like about this place.

The next day, we came back to order Chef Sandor’s BBQ Ribs. The sauce was the perfect blend of 15 ingredients. It was so good that it made us wish they were on the menu every day.

Happy Hour is from 4-6 PM; Dos Aves Cerveza or 2x1 Margaritas with three Argentinean Empanadas for $120 pesos. Without a doubt, this is one of the best fiestas and deals in town.


We tried the mango, tamarind and the not-so-standard Margarita and all of them were magnificent…and strong. Hats off and good night to friends who could drink more than two.


The empanadas were a mix; one stuffed with corn, one with meat and one with cheese. I’m not sure any of us could decide which one was the favorite. All of them are worth another order just to figure that one out.


The restaurant is just off Sterling Dickinson; it’s the little street with the tree in the middle of it. Walk up the hill and the restaurant is on the left.

I love a restaurant that starts out running. This one is already on my top 10 list.
  

garambullo fonda gourmet
Animas 46
             
Team up mother and daughter Maye Cordova and Jimena Tamayo Cordova and you get a made-for-locals hang out with strong coffee, great conversation and really good food.

Maye was at Cumpanio and has been a catering maven in Mexico for years, delivering some of the most creative and beautiful dishes in San Miguel. 


Try my favorite, the poached eggs and beans with spinach (a substitute for nopales) green sauce, and toast points.
  

Look for the signature pink door, and interior pink wall, on the right-hand side of Animas. It’s the first left as you head down Colegio around from Mercado Ignacia Ramirez.


Casa de Cocinas
San Antonio, San Miguel de Allende

Casa de Cocinas is part of my monthly culinary tradition that is anything but routine. Its tasting dinners make it one of the best "restaurants" in town.

If you don't know owner Michael Coon, he's the former Travel Director and co-creator of the Culinary Institute of America's Worlds of Flavor tours.

He now owns and operates The Inside Route at Casa de Cocinas here in San Miguel. 


Michael is one of the top chefs in SMA. Ask him about any place in the world and he’s likely been there. He a dedicated scholar of global cuisine and works his magic in the kitchen at Casa de Cocinas.

On the first bite at every tasting, I wonder what backstreet he traveled down to inspire the recipe. His gift is innate. I’m certain if he were handed a golden beet, he would do something astounding with it. There’s something totally stimulating about watching a really great chef at work.

When he’s not out leading culinary tours, he’s in his kitchen doing tasting dinners and teaching classes. His talent is so broad, you’ll never have a repeat adventure.

If you want to get on his mailing list for tours, classes and dinners, email him at: nsideroute@aol.com

No surprise that all seven of the meals I've had at Casa de Cocinas have been among the best I've had in San Miguel. Go once and I guarantee you’ll become a regular.
   
Oliver's
Refugio Sur no. 28


You'll likely see your country's flag in their front yard when they come out of the house to greet you.
  
The tables are just close enough together to get to know the people sitting next to you. It’s like dining with one, big, happy family.
  
They are doing everything right these days…

Having moved around for many years because of increasing rents, they've found a little piece of heaven with their own space where the garden is overflowing with fruit and flowering trees.

La Lonja Carniceria is their meat supplier and the meat is delivered fresh every day. I've bought from La Lonja since the first day I came to San Miguel.


I go there because I like their burgers. They have added steaks and chicken to the menu. 


I love to spend time with Oliver and Ellie, who both love to talk food.


Dog friendly.
   

Andy’s Tacos
Hidalgo and Insurgentes

Every evening at 7PM, there’s a long line at Andy's Taco cart. The smell is a magnet for aficionados who jockey for one of the few seats and an overflowing plate of savory Tacos Al Pastor.

The pork is marinated in dried chilies and spices then slow-cooked on a vertical rotisserie. Cover the taco with a spicy, red chipotle salsa and slices of cooked pineapple and you’ll likely be totally unaware of when to stop eating. This stuff is habit forming.

Andy's is also a favorite of partygoers looking for an after-hours feast and still intoxicated by the magic of the fiesta.  A bargain at 10 pesos each or 67 cents; have 3 and you’ve spent $2.01.

I need a frequent Pastor fix so you’ll find me there at least once a week just as they open. It’s a great time to chitchat with Andy as he caramelizes the Al Pastor to the stage of almost-burnt perfection.

I have the recipe which I am going to make this weekend. It’s pretty complicated so I can’t imagine I’m going to give up going there any time soon.

It’s the only food I missed when I was in Guatemala. 


Dog friendly.


Lavanda
Hernandez Macias # 87

This is my go-to place for an outstanding breakfast. I’ve eaten the old menu and there was not one dish I didn’t like. There now have several new items on the menu.

This is the place to go when you have out-of-town guests and want to make an impression. You can always count on fresh ingredients and a more than attractive presentation. In my world, presentation counts just about as much as the food itself.


Straight-up best? It will always be their signature Huevos Rancheros. Died and gone to the food heaven of my dreams every time I taste them.

Karla is one of the most consistent and talented chefs in SMA.


Provecho
Ancha de San Antonio #10A

Nobody in SMA happens to be more charming than these two…

Add this lovely owner/mother Siobhan with daughter/Chef Joanna Bryne, and you get a culinary dream team; a match that knows exactly what to give to their customers.

On the grounds of this former 17th century palace of the Counts of Canal, the restaurant is not only visually beautiful but the food is splendid as well.

The dishes are layered with such amazing flavors that it always surprise me. Joanna is a chef that knows how to get the best out of all the seasonal ingredients that she uses.


The soups are a stand out and they change up their specials every week.

Call it your everyday Irish home away from home.


El Tucan
Hernandez Macias 56
Dog friendly

Since I came to San Miguel, I’ve been friends with El Tucan owner, Alex, who cooked in Chicago for 11 years.


He’s got inexpensive, Mexican items on his menu. My favorite is the flautas; 5 for 35 pesos. Knowing that something deep fried has been covered in a pile of healthy vegetables takes away at least half the guilt for eating them.

This is a guy who not only will cook anything you’re hungry for on any given day – just ask him- but he will also do anything for you as well. He a shirt-off-his-back kind of guy.

Want to know something or just get something done? Ask Alex, a SMA native with a remarkable network of contacts.

Last year, when several of us were on the hunt for pork cheeks, Alex not only told us where to get them but he also went with us to Comonfort and introduced us to the butcher. Turns out Alex use to buy all the meat at the Longhorn when it was in its’ prime.

His English is textbook perfect. Don’t let the dive surroundings throw you. This place is as local as it gets.

If you get it to go, you’ll miss the “Alex experience”.


Osvaldo's
Independencia #47

Call this place unpretentious. At this dog friendly restaurant, 90% of the customers are Mexican. Mix that with good food, cheap prices - everything on the menu is about 50 pesos- and a charming owner with 6 beautiful kids and you get a place where you want to go as often as you can hike up the hill. 

Go for the tasty liquiado which on a split 15 pesos.

I'm trying to remember the last time I got anything this good for $1.

Thursday, April 23, 2015

Querétaro: El Bajío’s Rising Star


20°35′15″N 100°23′34″W. Mexico’s best kept secret. Querétaro!

With the fastest growing economy in Mexico, Querétaro is a picturesque city known for its mix of 17th and 18th century Baroque architecture and its thoroughly modern buildings. 



There is construction everywhere you look. 

Some have compared Querétaro to Alicante, Spain...minus the ocean. 



Crawl inside Querétaro and you’re likely to stay awhile. It feels just like home.

The city, known for its many jacaranda trees (street art; the buds on the street in Alamos) and green spaces, is visually one of the most appealing cities in Mexico. 

Call it a mini-Mexico City.  In fact, ask anyone who has moved here recently and many will tell you they’re from Mexico City and repositioned for a better life. Querétaro is renowned for the highest quality of life in Mexico.

The city is expected to increase in size about 35% over the next 20 years. It’s one of the safest and cleanest cities in Mexico.

Cost of living? its’ less than both Mexico City and San Miguel de Allende.

Gringos? not many so better start practicing your Spanish. 

Modern? Querétaro’s downtown is the first in all of Latin America to be wireless. 


The high speed train between Querétaro and Mexico City? Not canceled, just postponed. 

Moving here? For now, I’m just excited that a city I somewhat know and love a lot is less than an hour from my doorstep.

Querétaro: The Culinary Scene



My trip to Querétaro was an eye-opener. There are not only many fine dining restaurants offering upscale Mexican food and also wonderful cafés, cafeterias, taquerias and street eats waiting to seduce the food lover.

According to Trip Advisor, there are already 371 restaurants and Querétaro continues to add premium eating spots every day.


Walking around Mercado de la Cruz is a feast for the eyes… and nose. 


Just take a look at how fresh this seafood is. The only other place I found seafood this fresh was at the Mercado de San Juan in Mexico City.


Mercado de la Cruz also happens to be one of my favorite markets in the Bajío region because just about everyone is eager to have their picture taken.

On the Wine and Cheese route between Tequisquiapan and Querétaro, there are farms producing remarkable Mexican and European artisan cheeses. The vineyards have the ideal climate and soil for making excellent wines; all testimony to the fact that Querétaro's culinary scene is flourishing.

Try the Bodegas de Cote winery at Libramiento Norponiente km. 5+900, Ezequiel Montes, for an enjoyable day trip and some out of the ordinary wine selections.

Creating "The List" 

     Photo from Chef Edgar

The list of where to eat came together rather quickly. On the first draft were the two chefs I stayed with, Edgar and Laurent. 

When we were drafting it, I asked Laurent why a certain restaurant was not on the list and he simply replied “No love in the food.” Passion is everything when it comes to cooking. 


Among the many celebrated restaurants in France where he cooked, Veracruz native Edgar was at the renowned Le Quinzième in Paris with Michelin-starred chef Cyril Lignac. 

For those of you who don't follow French chefs, Cyril Lignac is a Michelin-starred chef and well-known television personality in France, appearing on several cooking shows including those related to travel in different French regions. He owns Le Quinzième which earned him a Michelin star in 2012. Their menu highlights French ingredients such as Landes foie gras and Brittany lobster. Photo from Wikipedia.


French born Laurent is a former Mechanical Engineer turned chef. With that broad path of engineering skills at hand, he immediately applied it to cooking with impressive results.


Together as a team they make magic in the kitchen. It was an immediate coup de foudre.


One morning, I observed them making pastry for Sucre Sale Delicatessen (Av. Universidad Oriente 42 in Centro Querétaro) and I was astonished at their technique. Why did making French pastry look so easy when I knew it wasn’t?


Their new pastry shop, La Maison Gourmande, at Felipe Luna 2 in Centro historico between 5 de Mayo y Santa Cruz Church, will be open in the next few weeks.



What is the Best and Where Can I Find It?

As for the Holy Grail of what should be consumed in Querétaro, this list was drafted by Chefs Edgar and Laurent and Ernesto and Sally of Casa Peti Bed and Breakfast. All of them have an educated taste when it comes to food.

A week was not enough time to go through the entire list but every place is worthy of a visit.  



Especiero
Independencia #64, Centro Historic

This restaurant, with a French cafe feel, is renowned for their sandwiches but it’s also one of my favorite breakfast spots.

Some of the best Chilaquiles made with strips of fried corn tortillas served with cheese, poached eggs, and chicken. Their secret? Pour the sauce over the dish at table so it never turns soggy before you hit the bottom of the bowl. 


Laurent was sweet on the Waffle with strawberries and bacon as if he was suddenly transported back to France with a single bite.

Cocono Restaurante Bar
Blvrd Bernardo Quintana 18, Calesa  



Blending old traditions with new techniques, people are singing the praises of this food establishment and I can see why. Every typical Mexican plate brings something different.


From eye-catching drinks like Lemonade with chia seeds and spearmint and the delicious Margarita Maracuy to meat platters grilled and served with a salsa of habanero and chile de árbol and a pile of requeson to cut the heat, just about everything at Cocono's will grab your attention…especially the service.


5DMayo Experimental
Calle 5 de Mayo 128


A 7-course menu with new and interesting flavors. 5-star and totally worth the spend. You'll leave this place wondering what's on the menu next weekend. Make a reservation in advance.

NOTE: As of October, 2015, 5DMayo Experimental has a new chef. We have not eaten the food there since this posting done so we cannot recommend this restaurant until we go back.


Elea Restaurante Griego Greek
Av. Manufactura 48-9,  Parques del Alamo, Plaza Bosques

Plenty of authentic Greek indulgences but the perfectly seasoned pork leg is just too good to pass up. 



Cardosanto
16 Circuito a Jardin Sour


Food lesson #1: When it comes to hamburgers, calories don’t count.

They don’t get any bigger or better than this one. Supersized? Try the GordoSanto, piled high with a tower of bacon or the CardoSanto, topped with everything and then an egg. 


The salmon burger is one of the best cooked a la parilla and served with cream cheese and capers. Not sharing my fries treated to a peppering of thyme and parmesan.



La Sirena Gorda
Calz. De Los Arcos 25, Jardines de Querétaro

Just like San Miguel only bigger.Legendary at both locations for their Margarita de Jengibre. 

Logan's Beer House
De Los Arcos, Jardines de Querétaro

Order the fish and chips and select from a large variety of artisan craft beers from all over the world. Come thirsty and stay late. Great views of the aqueduct.

Taberna El Quillo
Paseo de la Republica 135, Cuitláhuac

This classic tavern-restaurant has an extensive menu that's hard to narrow down but Spanish natives swear this is the most authentic ticket in town.

The chef dishes out so many impressive eats, you’ll want to start planning your next vacation in Alicante.


Alioli Gastro Bar
16 de Sept #28

There is a reason this place is often the #1 restaurant in Queretaro. The food is prepared by people who have been trained in Michelin Star restaurants in Spain.

In other words, as Laurent would say, there is so much love in this food; you wouldn’t need any other reason to come back.


Tikua Sur Este
Ignacio Allende 13

Mexican moles and pickled grasshoppers? A varied menu with an emphasis on Oaxaca, Yucatan, Chiapas, Capeche and Tabasco cooking.

Tikua is a favorite that will not disappoint even the most hard to please eater. Look for the superb recommendations for vegetarians and vegans. Sit on the patio and drink in the murals...and San Miguel's favorite beer, Dos Aves.


Cenaduria Blas
Av 5 De Mayo 125

Indulge yourself with pickled pork legs, turkey and all your favorite regional cooking. With over 50 years of history, this place has a record to maintain. Don’t leave without trying the gorditas.

El9 Restaurante Lounge Yucateco 
Blvd. Bernardo Quintana #9, Alamos 2a Secc

You would think by now I was beginning to feel a bit of overkill when it came to Chamorro. Never too much where this Chamorro al Pibil is concerned because it’s better than almost everywhere else in Querétaro.


Hacienda La Laborcilla 
Prolongación Corregidora Norte 911-Bis, Parques Residenciales

This visual stunner is like no other in the city. A renovated hacienda, you’ll want to come here for the architecture but the food, wine and service are superb draws as well.
Fine cuts of meat and a great wine list make this worthy of a repeat. 


Maria y Su Bici
Calle 5 de Mayo 91, Centro

Go for genuine Oaxaca and grab an order of the Tacos de Chapulines with a glass of tasty, chili-dusted margaritas.

This rather touristy restaurant has some of the most extraordinary decor around so bring your camera.

Love thy neighbor as the communal tables give you a chance to get to know everyone in the place before you finish your dessert.

Cafe Breton
Andador Libertad #82

The owner is from Bretagne and the food is dependably French. A great breakfast and lunch so you pick.

My philosophy? You can never get your fill of French food so go again tomorrow.


Restaurante Orange
Meson Santa Rosa Hotel
Calle Luis Pasteur Sur 17, Centro Historico

The see-and-be-seen spot for coffee or a drink. Best to dress like Angelica Rivera. Not the most warm and cozy owners but a charming site to watch the beautiful people of Querétaro walk by.


San Miguelito
Andador 5 de Mayo 39, Centro Historico

Owned by the brother-in-law of Claudia, SMA’s beloved pie professional, you’ve got to go for a drink and an appetizer (the beef carpaccio) at this visual tour de force. 

Pure fiesta décor that’s tiled inside and out. Stunning, one-of-a-kind table place settings you’ll want to gather up and take home with you. Too bad you don’t have seating for 200+


Mariposa
Calle Angela Peralta 7, Centro Historico

Enchiladas verdes con pollo and a homemade milkshake for breakfast? Let’s get a little adventurous because this place is a slice of Mexico… 50 years ago.

One of the oldest and most traditional restaurants in the city is always full to capacity but the sweets make it totally worth the wait.


Calufe 
5de Mayo 99A 

This petite coffee house serves high-quality brew from Veracruz. Ask them to open a bin and soak in the aroma of the beans.

Drink up and savor the history. I got excited just thinking the beans were picked by worn hands and voyaged all the way across Mexico to end up in my cup. A daily indulgence.

Bar Alquimia
5 de Mayo 71, Centro

Just one block from Plaza de Armas, this attractive, little cantina-style bar caught my eye and it was love at first sight. Get there early or you are likely to spend the night standing. Great place to meet locals who will end up being your BFF’s by the end of the night. Open from 18:00 to 2:30 hrs; Closed on Sundays and Mondays.


Street Eats... 


Don Chamorro
73 y 74, La cruz

When the owner pulled out a leg so I could see just how much meat is on one, I almost dove in the pot. That’s how good this dish looked.

Smother the best pork leg taco in Querétaro with onions, cilantro and pico de gallo and you’re in for a serious feast. Bring a bib and a pocketful of change.


Las Tortugas
Anda 5 De Mayo 27

Institution status? This carnita torta with its secret tomato sauce has been served by Las Tortugas for over 59 years.

Also flavoring this mouth-watering torta? Plain old mustard. I am addicted to the combination which became my breakfast for the two mornings while I was there.
This pork Sloppy Joe was more than an appetizing deal at 39 pesos each.


Tortas Nico
Calle Independencia #13

The line at this torta shop convinced me that something inspirational was coming out of the kitchen.

Try the Torta de Milanesa which was the favorite of everyone waiting to get a first bite.
A tasty, local choice, where nobody’s leaving until their number is up.


Las Gorditas del Portal 
Corregidora 15B Sur

Chalk up another one for the vegetarians. My new favorite gordita is stuffed with just two ingredients: Guacamole and Oaxaca cheese. 


There’s something in the Guacamole that makes this better than just about every other one I’ve tried…

and true to the name, I ate a bunch of them.


La Cabaña
Avenida Constituyentes 130

Best Cabrito in town? The mastermind behind the cooking has been here since 1957. 
Rivals the famous El Rey del Cabrito in Monterrey? You tell me.

This is one local specialty where you have to eat the skin, it’s that good. Go for another helping. No vegetarians allowed.


Barbacoa Santiago
Carretera Mexico-Queretaro Km. 152, San Juan del Río, QRO

This cash only place off the highway is now world-famous. Blame it on Chowzter, the gastronomy powerhouse out of London who awarded Barbacoa Santiago with the title of “best taco in the world.” Since then, it’s seen carloads of visitors hungry for both the food and the experience. BEST TACO IN THE WORLD

This pit-cooked, Mexican-style barbacoa is a flavor epiphany. Bring a $20 bill and call it the best food ritual in Querétaro. Can we go again tomorrow?

Other tasty distractions …

Sabores Boutique Gourmet
Av Universidad 33, Centro Histórico

This place is packed with things to stir up your taste buds. A routine stop on its wine tasting circuit will trigger your addiction to all of its outstanding reds.

Metzgerhaus
Juan B. Alcocer 236, Candiles, Qro.

Expect the wurst because there’s nothing better than wonderful homemade sausages made to order using old world recipes and ingredients.

Roll out the BBQ and order a barrel of anything that slightly resembles sauerkraut. Make up a batch of German potato salad, close your eyes and swear this isn’t Berlin. I’m so there.

The Food Trucks…

Querétaro's food trucks gather once a month on Friday and Saturday to put on a not-so-ordinary feast.

Some of the best food comes from these mobile eateries; taste the burgers at La Burguesia and Bisrroka and have a bite at one a favorite of my favorite trucks, Chef on Fuego, who also spends a fair amount of time in San Miguel.

Sweet Dreams…

Instead of making this a day-trip destination or a place to shop as many people in the area do, I suggest going for a week; you’ll want to stay a lot longer.


LA CASA DE LOS CHEFS is in the Alamos section of town and an easy 20 minute walk to town. You’ll walk through green spaces with walking paths much of the way.

The chefs have a beautiful French style bedroom with the most comfortable bed and linens. I slept like a baby and had a great week with Edgar and Laurent.

If you want the chefs to cook for you, be sure to ask for pricing and menu selections in advance. Don’t miss this experience because the food was beyond magnificent.

Book this room with Airbnb at the link below but please leave some nights for me.

Casa Peti


Many of you remember Ernesto from Red Tree House in Mexico City. So happy that he is one step closer to San Miguel.

When I went for a visit, the space was starting to come alive. Sally was planting gorgeous flowers to pave the center courtyard and Ernesto’s sister Alexandra, the head architect, had all the tile designs laid out in her head. Getting them done is just a matter of time. It is a huge work in progress and they currently have 4 rooms completed with one of them already occupied by a long-term guest.

When they’re completed, you'll want to bring your extended family, a wedding party or a large group of friends to this property; it's the perfect spot to reconnect right in the middle of downtown Querétaro. Just don't forget to invite me to the party. 

Book at this airbnb link :


Shopping:

You can take a full weekend just for shopping in Querétaro . You’ll want to check out these stores along with the new Antea LifeStyle Center at Paseo de la Republica with many high-end stores and restaurants.


Luba Arte Dulce
Calle 5 de Mayo #100

An amusing candy store stocked with the sweetest of treats. Go here and you’ll remember why you’re still a big kid at heart.


Hecho a Mano y Mas
Calle 5 de Mayo #60

Want something authentically Querétaro? This is the place to buy it with artists from all over the state contributing to the stash.

Take a part of Mexico home with you…

Don’t you just love it when people accuse you of always picking the perfect gift? Abrazos pretty much has all of my Mexico-manias coveredtequila, piñatas, mariachis, Day of the Dead, fiestas and siestas, fireworks, Virgins, Frida’s, rosa mexicano, chili peppers, hugs and kisses…


Check out these Querétaro shops that carry products from Abrazos featuring San Miguel Designs by Patrice Wynn.



You may even want to buy something for yourself.


QUINTO REAL
Reforma 80 

MADRE TIERRA
Andador Libertad 35A