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What? Are you crazy? You'll Get Sick.
These are some of the remarks I get
from people who have never eaten at Tuesday Market. So let me set you straight.
I am apparently eating enough for the both of us so thank you!
Fact of the matter is I've eaten at Tuesday
Market almost three dozen times and I've never been sick.
First off, you're starting out with
something you just don't find everywhere and that is market fresh. Many of them
are just-picked yesterday and put on the truck as opposed to going through the
very long and complicated distribution chain.
So how do I know where to eat? I
follow the crowds...and my nose. After all, who knows better than the locals?
Tuesday Market is one place you can
count on to get fresh food at a good value. Cheap Eats? You bet. It's the
easiest way to stretch your budget -whether you need to or not- and still eat
really well.
On my weekly trip I always have to
sample a little bit of this and that. There are so many good things to eat it's
a challenge to make your choices because you can get side-tracked so easily.
Tuesday Market is one of the great
people watching spots in San Miguel. You'll see just about everything.
98 percent of the people who are there
are not gringos. That's another reason to love it.
It's the one day of the week I'm a
bottomless pit and fill up on good things to eat and drink so I can survive
until the following Tuesday.
And for anyone who loves food as
much as I do, next Tuesday can't come soon enough!
Buen Apetito!
Getting There:
The Tuesday Market is located about
a mile and a half outside of Centro, “up the hill” near the old Gigante. It's a
35 peso taxi ride that takes about
10 minutes.
Walking: If your fit or want some exercise,
just hike the huge hill East of downtown.
I
take Correo Street up the hill to Santa Domingo and turn right and follow the
road on the left hand side. You'll go past the Mirador which is always worth
the extra effort. Google the directions on Google Maps from your starting
location.
If you see a # 8 or # 9 bus - on Mesones up from Plaza Civica - that's marked El
Tianguis or La Placita you know your headed in the right direction. Get off
where the bus unloads with locals and let the traffic cop direct you across two
busy streets. It's totally easy and safe.
Experience this 5 peso trip because
it's how most people headed to the market travel.
Time:
The market opens at 9 AM and many of
the food stalls open at 9:30 AM.
I always go to where I'm going to
eat breakfast right when they open. That way, you can be assured that the food
was just made and is fresh.
Layout:
There are 3 sections. Section 1 is
located closest to the old Gigante, Section 2 is in the center and my favorite
place to explore for hidden treasures, Section 3, is at the very end where the
buses enter the market.
Aisle 1 is the bus side. There are 9
aisles not counting the outside aisle which you should definitely not skip. There are some fun and lively vendors on those outside
aisles.
The peso amount is for the item
specified. Other items may be more but rarely over a 50 peso note. Bring lot's
of them.
What's Good To Fill You Up:
Rodriquez Family Barbacoa
Section 3, Aisle 3
The Rodriguez Family Barbacoa is
usually my first stop.
I get a half cup of the caldo
without vegetables and extra Barbacoa and then load up with the just chopped
cilantro, onions and of course lime.
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It's just chopped because I'm always there
at 9:30 when they open. That's the best time to go there to eat otherwise you
are fighting crowd.
What do I like most about this
stall? It's a family run operation and they work hard to keep up with all the
regulars and tourists they feed each week. They also have a restaurant up the
hill from Mega.
15 Pesos.
Ceci Gorditas
Section 2, Aisle 8
Call it what you like but Gorditas
Tradicionales Colon or Ceci has some of the best Gorditas at the market. Stuff
them with any one of the 14 fillings they have on the menu.
13 Pesos.
Tacos Lupita Tacos
Section 3, Aisle 2
At Tacos Lupita, just look for the
cabeza (head) and take a seat. At this point you specify which part of the head
you want to try. Last time I ate the cheeks, brains and eyes. You can see all
the fat on this made it so tasty.
8 Pesos.
Bautista Brothers Carnitas
Section 2, Aisle 1
More often than not someone is
bringing out a fresh tray of Carnitas...or I have a perfect sense of timing.
Whatever it is, I get the ribs and when I'm done I suck on the bones. I know.
It sounds barbaric but that happens to be where all the flavor is. You can also
get a torta or a tortilla.
Ribs 38 Pesos
Torta 26 Pesos
Taco 9 Pesos
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Don Santos Bistec Tacos
Section 2, Aisle 1
The crowds are always lined up at
this taco stand where beef tacos are the standard breakfast fare.
8 Pesos.
Cecina
Section 3, Aisle 3
You have to prepare this dish on a
sunny day which is almost every day in San Miguel.
These thin strips of beef are cooked
with salt and hung out to dry in the sun. They are served in a tortilla with
fried onions and topped with French fries. The combination cuts some of the
salt and they can be totally addictive. I didn't love them until I ate them for
the third time.
Yep - third time’s a charm.
14 Pesos
Tacos Al Pastor
Pancho Pizza Celaya
Section 2, Aisle 9
The largest pastor I've seen
anywhere. The cook always loves to ham it up for the camera. A cast of many
here diligently preparing tacos as fast as they can turn them out.
6 Pesos.
Fried Fish Dinner
Section 2, Aisle 1
70 Pesos.
Section 1,Aisle 6
40 Pesos.
There are a couple of places to get
a great fish comida. One is not necessarily better than the other so check them
first before you buy.
Thin crust Pizza
Section 3, Aisle 3
You have a dozen or more to choose
from and I just love watching the girls make them up.
I also watch when they take them
from the oven so I can be sure to get the freshest one. Again, go early.
As with many other things, Mexicans
smother theirs with hot sauce.
10Pesos.
Drinks:
Fresh Squeezed Juice
Section 2, Aisle 8
This is the freshest just-squeezed
juice around. A wide variety of fruits are used but my favorite is the
pineapple. You can also do them in any combination you like.
I met a woman last Tuesday who
brings her own bottles and has them filled for the week. Not a bad idea.
20 Pesos.
Aguas Frescas
These flavored waters are loaded
with fresh fruit and look so refreshing. You would like to try them all but
that will take forever since the tables stretch at least a half mile...or so
it seems.
15 Pesos.
Deep Fried:
Like all good things deep fried, I
like them fresh and hot out of the fryer. In fact, I say the hotter the better.
Chicharrón
Section 3, Aisle 1
I've never loved Chicharrón until I
was offered a piece right out of the hot oil.
That's one thing about Tuesday Market...you
could fill up on the samples and if they don't offer one, ask for one. They
rarely say no.
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Makes sure you get the Chicharrón
with the "meat" attached. Every bacon lover should experience this at
least once.
30 Pesos
Potato Chips
Section 2, Aisle 7
The girls give them to me just out
of their fryer too but you have to ask for them that way. I always give them
tip.
Sprinkle liberally with salt and you
have your portable snack ready to explore the rest of the market.
20 pesos.
Churros
Section 2, Aisle 7
This is one of my favorite vendors
at the market. He loves having his photo taken and always loads me down with
samples. His sales effort is almost always rewarded as I rarely pass him by
without buying something.
20 pesos.
Sweets:
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Pasteles Diani
Section 3, Aisle 5
Delicious chocolate cake and other
sweet treats.
20 pesos.
Strawberries
Section 3 and also Section 1, Aisle 3
You'll walk by mountains of
strawberries and notice by mid-day they've been reduced to small hills.
You have to be careful with local
strawberries so remember to both disinfect and freeze them.
I like them in breakfast smoothie
made with ice, yogurt, fresh squeezed juice and agave syrup.
15 Pesos per kilo.
Whipped Cream Treats
Section 2, Aisle 8
These will look so good with fresh
fruit mixed in and a festive topping of sprinkles.
It's almost like licking the spoon
when your mom use to whip fresh cream.
Take Home:
The Cheese, Sausage and Tortilla lady
Section 2, Aisle 1
This is some of the most beautiful Oaxaca
cheese I've seen. She also makes other local cheeses. Her homemade flour
tortillas are laced with lard. Yes, you can actually taste the difference they
are that good.
Fresh Meats and Vegetables:
Chicken
Section 2, Aisle 2
Fish
Section 2, Aisle 2
Section 1, Aisle 3
Some say this fish is from Mexico
City and others swear it's flown in from Veracruz. I've not had it but there
are people that swear by the freshness.
Fresh fruits and Vegetables
Section 2, Aisle 3
Section 1, Aisle 5
Although there are plenty of great
looking fruit and vegetable stands everywhere in the market, I noticed these two
aisles have a lot of them.
Berry Etc. Stand
Section 1, Aisle 8
All sorts of unusual things to eat.
Apricots
Section 2, Aisle 5
35 Pesos per kilo
Blackberries
Section 2, Aisle 2
15 Pesos
Avocados
Section 2, Aisle 2
25 Pesos per kilo.
Kitchen Goods
Section 2, Aisle 7
Mole Paste
Section 2, Aisle 2
In case you're not in the mood or
don't have the time to make it from scratch
25 Pesos a Quart
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Chilies
Section 2, Aisle 3
70 Pesos per Kilo.
Tortilla Press
Section 2, Aisle 3
180 Pesos.
Seasonal Blooms
Section 1, Aisle 4
10 Pesos per bunch depending on size
and type.
Staples (Beans, Rice, Corn, ect.)
Section 1, Aisle 5
Spices
Scattered throughout the market.
