Back in 1975, Jose
Luna and his adventurous partner, French born architect and artist, Berta, came
to SMA and bought a restaurant. Today, some 45 years later, Mama Mia’s is an
institution; one of the oldest and most popular tourist restaurants in SMA.
It’s history is
fascinating, with countless stories of celebrated and not-so-famous celebrities
dropping in, along with a continuous flow of customers (most of them tourists),
gifted musicians and the staff; many who have dedicated their life to nurturing
this place in order to make it genuine. It’s connected all of us who are a part
of its narrative to the Luna family and to San Miguel. It’s also forged
marriages, life-long friendships and pulled people back to SMA who could not
escape the magic.
I’ve been part of the
Mama Mia family for three years now; going there every week for Margaritas and
to check up on one of our favorite bartenders: hijo and student, Adalberto
Garcia Moreno (Adal), who playfully rings the bell each week to announce our
arrival. We come for our SMA family; not by blood but by acceptance - another
lineage that Mama Mia’s created.
In my life, there are
restaurants that I’m emotionally attached to; Mama Mia’s is one of them...
I first met their
former chef, Miguel Gallegos, in June of 2017, when I was doing a story on new
chefs in SMA and I was eager to finally meet him, already a legend in the
kitchens of SMA. The mission he took on when he was hired was to make Mama
Mia’s “more organic”, incorporating the food from their farm, Rancho Luna,
located behind the Sanctuary at Atotonilco. When he left, Mama Mia’s was using
much of its homegrown produce in their dishes; raising hens and chickens,
making their own bread, pasta, and bacon and growing all of the grain for their
private label beer, Hechicera. Mission accomplished; chapter closed…
I was fortunate this
past week to meet up with the owners of Mama Mia, Jose Luna and partner, Berta,
in what will be the new Mama Mia’s on Hernández Macías #91 and get a sneak
peek. The home dates back to the 16th century. The Luna family has been
personally involved in the design of the project; Berta is the architect. Jose
Luna says through his writings that he can feel the history every time he walks
in the door.
The house is rumored to have been owned by Dr. Ignacio Hernández
Macías, for whom the street is named. The staff is working hard for an August
opening; all of them involved in the renovation.
Prepare yourself
because the new Mama Mia’s is about to steal your heart; it’s DROP DEAD
GORGEOUS! The property is filled with natural wonders: enchanting light
showcasing the colors of Mexico, ruins they’re still trying to decide what to
do with (a choice table or perhaps another bar); an inviting fire-pit, organic
gardens planted with herbs and other flora, multiple levels of dining rooms, a
stage for the musicians, a hand-built pizza oven, a contemporary kitchen, a
state-of-the-art Trejo coffee roaster you can sync to a laptop for perfect
roasting every time and a rooftop, which will open at a later date; so much
space in fact that social distancing is already part of the plan.
Although the space is
large, Mama Mia somehow manages to make it feel intimate; just like being home.
I’ve already claimed my stool at the bar; daydreaming of nursing the foam off a
glass of Hechicera and taking a memorable, first sip of Adal’s legendary
Margaritas. Happy hours are nontraditional. You know Adal’s Margaritas mean
business when you can only drink one. What’s new coming out of the kitchen will
be our next report.
Jose Luna and Berta’s
love letter to SMA was written back in 1975 and it’s about to be rewritten
again. Sleeping beauty, as Jose Luna calls it, will awaken soon. Prepare
yourself for what will truly be one of the most surprising and remarkable
openings in SMA. We didn’t want to give anything away in the pictures; she’s
the one beauty you just have to see for yourself.
Buen Provecho!
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