Monday, June 6, 2022

Brunch at Tene Latin Cuisine

Chef Irving Cano presented the first brunch at Tene Latin Cuisine last week with all the passion that only he can deliver on a Sunday morning. This chef is widely known, not only for his excellent, Latin cuisine, but also for his ability to turn his dishes into works of art. His plating ability is well known and we still gasp whenever a dish he’s prepared is put on the table before us. The Guest chef was young, Jordi Casas, part of the Joan Casas family, renowned for their award winning Paella from the restaurant, El Asador Catal├ín; one of the oldest restaurants in SMA for over 23 years. Their paella has won 5 national, paella competitions as well as their oxtail tapa, that won the national tapas contest; going on to represent Mexico in the world finals. Every brunch, a different guest chef will share the kitchen; some local and others from restaurants around the world. Tene Latin Cuisine wants to make sure you never get bored with their menu so it will change at every brunch, along with the live music. On Wednesday, they will also feature a Mixology night, Rendezvous Wednesdays, from 1:00 PM – 9:00 PM; a Happy Hour of sorts only better and longer. We moved through the menu with total delight; every dish was a standout from the previous plate they served. What we loved the most is that every dish came with an education; some of the ingredients were new to our palate:
Quesabirrias: quesadilla stuffed with cheese and Guadalajara’s renowned Birria – a stew made from a combination of chili pepper- goat meat with garlic and other spices. This dish was complimented with a Perica sauce made with jalapenos and cilantro. We liked the crispy shell. Croquette trio: Iberic ham with mayonnaise; Cod with onion jam and Squid in its ink with Apple and mint ali oli. Oxtail with xoconostle and mezcal pickled cod. A meat well known for its intense flavors; we wish more restaurants would put it on their menus. Spicy Chicken Sandwich on a huitlacoche brioche bun with smoked cheese and siraccha, parmesan mayonnaise. One of the tenderest chicken preparations we’ve eaten, it was hot but not too hot or spicy. Suckling pig taco with xoconostle, chilcuague syrup, creamy avocado and pico de gallo. Lechon is one of our favorite preparations; we order it every chance we get. Mixed Paella with pig, chicken, Catalan sausage, dogfish, squid, mussle and clam. There are many interpretations of paella but each of the authentic versions is all about the rice; of tender grains that hang onto just a bit of chewiness. It’s no wonder the Casas famiy has won so many Paella awards. Chef Jordi Casas went the extra mile and also used bones and shells, resulting in rich, deep flavors in the stock. Robata Grilled Kampachi with lime and tiger milk with insects and lemon grass air. Cooking on a robata grill is a fine art, especially in Japan. The grills are very hot and the temperature cannot be adjusted. The flavor is succulent inside with a crisp, smoked exterior. The insects in this dish are three: cosiles, chinicuiles and chapulines. It was the most interesting dishes on the menu for its combination of both flavors and textures. Peaches and homemade ice cream in corn honey and sake with white chocolate cream, lime and yuzu kosho. Yuzu kosho is the perfect marriage of citrus and chilies. This Japanese paste is made from yuzu (a wonderful citrus fruit that is virtually unknown outside of Japan and China), chilies and salt. It drops a flavor bomb on everything it touches.
Look for Chef Irving Cano at Millesime GNP Weekend, May 27-29th. One of the best, new restaurants in SMA, we can’t wait to see what this chef is going to envision next.
Don’t miss Tene’s brunch on Sunday, June 12, from 11:00 AM – 5:00 PM, featuring three of our favorite chefs: Christian Herrera of As De Guia, Jorge Avendano of Bastardo and Irving Cano; the dream trio in Tene’s kitchen next. Tene Latin Cuisine Restaurant/Casa 1810 Parque Hotel /Dulce 1810 Bakery Codo 3, Zona Centro, Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Gto. Phone: 415 688 6891 Hours: Daily 8:00 AM – 10:00 PM except Sunday Brunch: 11:00 AM – 4:00 PM Mixology Special: 1:00 PM – 9:00 PM Chef: Irving Cano