The Best Fireplace Restaurants in San Miguel de Allende

On a cool November night, I can’t think of anything more enjoyable than sitting in front of a roaring fire with a bottle of Casa Madero red, made at the oldest winery in Mexico. It’s my favorite thing to do when the weather turns and you’re looking to diminish the cold.  

Don’t give up your nightlife and stay at home just because there’s a chill in the air. Here’s a list of SMA restaurants with a fireplace when you need more than a layer or two of cashmere to stay warm. 

Buen Apetito!

Andanza at the Sierra Nevada, Calle Hospicio #35 

With the most fireplaces in a single restaurant, you’ll never have to worry about getting the warmest seat in the house. Every room is cozy with stately ambiance and beautiful décor. Chef Antonio Arzola is in the kitchen, ready to serve you a number of delicious dishes off his winter menu. This feast is well worth going out in the cold for.

Aperi Restaurant, Quebrada #101

Catch the corner table in the inside dining room for a toasty warm up and some of the best, Mexican food by SMA’s favorite chef, Matteo Salas. The nippiness of winter gives you an excuse to order more than one dish with his impressive list of offerings; food for the soul worth savoring. Don’t forget a bottle of wine to complement the mix.

Café Monet, Calle Zacateros #83

This long table in the center of the restaurant sits in front of a grand, stately fireplace. Toss in some interesting artwork to admire while you’re hiding out from the cold. Order an Irish coffee; it’s certain to give you a thawed out glow and will recharge your batteries.

Casa 1810, Hidalgo #8

A large fireplace dominates the lobby, next to a tiny bar. A perfect spot to stay warm and experience welcoming drinks with friends. If you’re really into the vino, wander down to the wine cellar for another glass of red. It definitely sets the mood. Warm and cozy may just be an understatement.

Café Muro, 1 Cerrada de San Gabriel  St, El Barrio del Obraje

Come celebrate Café Muro in a new location. Warm up at the fireplace between bites of mouth-watering comida. Savor the views; Gerardo’s built a stunning place with curved glass walls to take them all in. It’s an instant warm up; the casual feel will thaw you out in a matter of seconds.

Café Rama, Calle Nueva #7

People never want to leave Café Rama in the winter. In both the front and back room are much loved, wood burning fireplaces. Warm up in this casual atmosphere with a glass of wine and some cold weather conversation. Since you’re going for the warmth, leave politics and religion at home. No argument here that this is a great place to get the afterglow.

Hanks New Orleans Café and Oyster Bar, Hidalgo #12

No excuse not to stay warm; Hanks has a fireplace in every dining room to park yourself in front of with a large bowl of hot, New Orleans-style gumbo. If you’re lucky enough, you’ll hit it just right for the 2 for 1 happy hour. Now the only warm up that’s missing is the karaoke.

Hecho en Mexico, Ancha de San ntonio #8

Grab one of two tables in the upper level that are right in front of the fireplace. The warmth is provided by a curved hearth that makes any long night of eating and drinking the preferred spot to be.

La Canica, Pila Seca #2

Winter’s perfume; the smell of wood smoke hits you when you first walk in the front door. This beautiful, old mansion, built in the late 1800’s was one of the first homes in SMA. It has the original, wood burning fireplace in the front dining room. Sip a glass of wine while tasting small plates created by SMA’s youngest chef, Luis Pablo Dominguez and his father Bricio. Be fussy; take the seat closest to the fire and enjoy the glimmer.

La Parada, Recreo #94

Chef Alexandra Gutt’s food is warmth enough; mouth-watering Peruvian flavors that make you forget it’s actually, really cold outside. A small fireplace in the front of the restaurant will keep you warm while you wait for a table. Heaters on the patio make for pleasurable winter dining.

Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar, Calle Nemesio Diez #11

Go for one of the tables with the fire pit in the middle. It’s bound to be a balmy night if you order up one of their premium tequilas to match the best panorama in town. A don’t miss spot no matter how cold it is.

MARSALA, cocina con acentos, Hernandez Macias #48 

A beautiful, old wood burning fireplace is the focal point of this new restaurant that’s opening soon. If you come too late to get a table inside, blankets will defrost you while enjoying the food from one of SMA’s favorite female chefs, Marcela Bolano.

MiVida, Hernandez Macias #97

Bundle up in your warm Italian wool and snug up in the front dining room with a fireplace, particularly on Sunday when the homemade pizza with sausage makes for a fabulous dinner along with a glass of top quality, Italian wine. Chefs Greta Ortega Casanas, Davide Giribaldi and Ana Cecila Alvarez provide both the teamwork and heat in this kitchen. You’ll crave every one of their inspired, Italian dishes no matter what the weather does outside.

Moxi and Mui Bar, Hotel Matilda, Aldama #53

A dramatic warm up in the main dining room of Moxi, along with the lobby, where you can sit and sip a glass of brandy. In upstairs Mui bar, you can’t miss the homemade pizzas made from scratch or the fireplace. It’s a welcoming night with no invitation necessary to keep you comfy. Chef Carlos Zamora Larios creates dishes to keep you warm.

Nena Hotel, Patio at Nextia and Rooftop Bar, Nemesio Diez #10

The Nena is the ideal place to warm up when a cold, SMA winter blows in. In addition to the fire bowls on the downstairs patio outside of Nextia, where Chef Alonso Dominguez presides, you’ll also find a fireplace in the indoor lobby where you can sit and enjoy a glass or two of your favorite Valle de Guadalupe wine. There are plenty of heaters on the upstairs, rooftop bar, where wedding fireworks are colorful and in-your-face spectacular. It’s a thaw out you wouldn’t forget any time soon.

Quince Rooftop, Cuna de Allende #15

In the downstairs dining room, the flames will keep you warm all night along with the outstanding food created by Chef Gonzalo Martinez. You’ll forget the blustery weather with a spiked, hot coffee. Leave room for dessert; make sure that anything with chocolate has your name on it.

Rosewood 1826 Bar and Patio, Calle Nemesio Diez #11, Zona

One of my favorite bars in the winter, sushi is served on weekends by expert chefs who trained in Japan. People love the indoor, double-sided fireplace that also opens to the outdoor patio. Those wanting extra heat can look to a long list of cocktails to supplement the flames.

Tacos Don Felix, Fray Juan de San Miguel 15, St. San Rafael

The indoor dining room has a fireplace that’s filled with folk art in the off- season. The food is so consistent, you’ll never think about the chilly conditions outside. The Maestra, Chef Gloria Espinoso Brijeno, has been cooking since she was 8 years old. Her food will keep you as warm as her smile.

The Restaurant, Calle Solano 16

Cozy up and get through the cold winter months in The Restaurant’s dining room with your favorite winter cocktail and a blazing fire. Chef Donnie Masterton prepares an assortment of menu items that are certain to keep you in good spirits even on the nippiest of nights. Before dinner, order a glass of hot brandy or rum to take off the chill. You’ll want to come right back and do it all over again the following night. Go for it; it’s only November.

Villa Santa Monica, Calle Fray José Guadalupe Mojica # 22

The roaring blaze of this oversized fireplace will thaw you out in a hurry. Split a bottle of vino with friends who were brave enough to wander out on a night even we ex-Chicagoans call frosty.

Zumo Restaurant, Orizaba #87-9, San Antonio

A few steps up from the bar is a custom fire pit made for conversation. Bring a large group of friends and enjoy a toasty seat inside the second floor dining room where a sizeable fireplace is one of the main attractions. Chef Stewart Haverlack dishes up Asian fusion; guaranteed to create some additional heat from all the hot and spicy ingredients. Count stars while sipping a cocktail on this rooftop restaurant; it will keep your mind off the fact that it’s cold…and it’s only November.

Cocktails...with or without the view

Bartenders in San Miguel have been elevating drinks to a new level and nothing sets off a carefully constructed cocktail more than a picturesque view of downtown San Miguel. The combination can’t be beat, even on a gloomy night.

We’ve done all the hard work for you so you’ll know your drink options and your bartenders on a first name basis before you go. Have you ever noticed that when you call someone by their first name, you go from customer to friend in a matter of minutes? Remembering a name is always a game changer. I always go to a bar on an off night just to get to know the staff before I bring guests.

We also added a few places at the finish because their extensive drink choices delight, with or without the view.

Don’t visit all of these bars in one night; we did. After awhile, even I couldn’t keep up with the tequila confessions… and some of them were mine.

Buen Apetito!

Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar

Rosewood Hotel, Nemesio Diez 11

Sprawling views of the city make this rooftop a must see whether you’re thirsty or not; a 360-degree spectacle certain to take your breath away, especially at sunset. Bring lots of pesos; the vista comes with a price but it’s worth it. I would know; I keep going back.

Cocktail Menu: Artisan cocktails inspired by Rosewood’s Sense of Place philosophy with a special focus on organic ingredients found in the region using a wide range of liquors – gin, vodka, whiskey and rum - as a base. No blenders allowed; all the drinks are crafted by hand using a selection of fresh ingredients, herbs and spices.

Try the Mojito Allende with Havana 7 Rum, mint, sugar, lavender flowers, soda water and lemon. We also love their classics like this vodka martini served in an oversized Margarita glass.

Bartenders: Oscar, Daniel, Luis and Jose. Confused with four? You’ll have to go back more often just to keep them all straight.

Quince

Cuna de Allende 15

A rooftop restaurant with in-your-face views of the Parroquia. Stylish and casual, you’ll never want to leave, especially in a rainstorm when you can reach to the side of the table and grab one of their beautiful, white umbrellas to keep you dry. We enjoy our drink at the high table facing the Parroquia; it’s got the best views, rain or shine. A throwback from the 40’s, catch the rolling drink cart; she’ll craft your cocktail tableside. One of our favorite bars, and restaurants, it really doesn’t get much better than this.

Cocktail Menu: Original cocktails made with luxury brands; heavy on the Grey Goose. Quince crafts their classic Margarita just like we do with a simple but sophisticated mix of Don Julio blanco, lime, controy and simple syrup. A few standout tastings include the house Margarita: a blend of Don Julio blanco, cucumber, pineapple, lemon, serrano chile and green chili and the Berry Chant: Grey Goose, cinnamon syrup, raspberry, blackberry, blueberry and strawberry finished with cardamom.

Bartender: Guadalupe

Antonia Bistro SMA

San Francisco 57

Toss in this view and I have to admit, a cocktail here is pretty perfect. A feast for the eyes as well as the taste buds. You’ll want to grab the high, center table to catch the brilliant colors of a SMA sunset; it’s nothing short of spectacular. Take the elevator down when you can; it’s being newly installed. Even the agave spirits wouldn’t soften the descent after a long night of fiesta.

Cocktail Menu: Choose from their four signature cocktails along with a short but distinctive selection of tequilas and mezcals that play from uplifting to smoky.

Cocktail Antonia:
Prosecco, limoncello, midori, watermelon and mint.

Cocktail Aguachile (pictured)
Mezcal, cucumber, coriander, lemon and chile serrano.

Cocktail Piña Pox
Pox (A traditional liqueur from Chiapas), pinapple, mint and lemon.


Cocktail Violeta
Frangelico, ginebra and strawberry.

Exclusive to Antonia Bistro SMA is the Apellation of Origin drinks made from agave spirits; Pox"Siglo Cero" from Chiapas, Sotol "Coyote" from Chihapas, Bacanora "Pascola" from Sonora and Raicilla "Hacienda el Divisadero" from Jalisco.

Bartender: Lourdes. Give her a big tip just for the honor of being one of the few female bartenders in SMA; she’s earned it.

Zumo

Orizaba #87, San Antonio

People will tell you that you haven’t really seen San Miguel until you’ve looked at it from the rooftop at Zumo. I call it the restaurant with the million dollar view. Here, both the clouds and SMA are reflected in my wine glass. Twinkle twinkle little star; none brighter than this rooftop at 10 PM sipping a sparkling cocktail.

Cocktail Menu: Vodka, Gin, Tequila, Mezcal and Rum are the heart of Zumo’s exceptional cocktails. A playful break from the classics, you’ll be so curious when you read the menu, you’ll want to try them all. Drink in the view; it’s more than spectacular, it’s perfect…and so are the drinks.

Bartender: Jonathan

Jacinto 1930

Relox 14

No views of SMA here but it’s great to sit in one of SMA’s best restaurants, Jacinto 1930, where the cocktails get the same respect from beverage director Adrian Garcia-Evans as the food does from Chef Matteo Salas, one of Mexico’s Top Chefs.

With one of SMA’s most exciting cocktail menus, it’s hard not to say “one of each, please” after sizing up the menu. Serious cocktail aficionados will want to come back every night; I know we do. Experience the Mole Martini; it’s already a SMA classic.

Cocktail Menu: Cocktail chemistry using high-end tequilas and mezcals. An entire section of the menu is dedicated to Casa Dragones Tequila, a brand whose spiritual home is in SMA. Even the Mocktails are something to celebrate.

Bartenders: Israel and Martin

18 Cocktail Room

Relox No. 18 

Sally and Roy Azar’s tasting room may be small but it takes creative cocktails to a sizeable level with a very impressive menu.

This paint-the-town red lounge is tiny and has a single row of red velvet couches you’ll never want to get up from once you’ve settled in. The best cozy couch bar in SMA, don’t write off this view: a 70’s pair of giant, ruby- red lips that is certain to make you dream at night.

Cocktail Menu: Enjoy innovative pours with a complete selection of house cocktails that strike a balance with the classics; 38 in all. Certain to delight even the most refined drinking palate.

My favorite; the Key Lime Pie of course made with Absolut vanilla vodka, Pina and Limon. Even the glass they serve it in is artistic and dazzling.

Bartenders: Alejandro

Day of the Dead Preview: Museo de la Katrina SMA

As the Nobel prize-winning Mexican writer Octavio Paz explained in Labyrinth of Solitude: "The Mexican is familiar with death, jokes about it, caresses it, sleeps with it, celebrates it."

Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) is my favorite holiday. It's a joyful and blessed celebration of both life and death that can be viewed at the beautiful, new Museo de la Katrina SMA at San Francisco 18.

I turned my photographs of the museum into artwork by the magic of a phone app, a further study from my phone photography class, which seemed more fitting for a tribute to eternal life.

Buen Apetito!...now, back to food.

The Maestras...coming in November

Architect Patricia Merrill Marquez, whose parents Yaya and Don Ricarod, pioneered Mexican culinary tourism as a “vacation with a purpose” back in the late 60’s, is keeping up with Yaya.

Patricia’s daughter, Mónica Navarrete Merrill, has a Diploma in High Cuisine and is a graduate in gastronomy from the Instituto Gastronómico de Estudios Superiores. She’s also attended the Culinary Institute of America in New York City.

Together,this mother-daughter team run The Mexican Cooking Vacations at their B&B, Arcos de Atascadero.

Patricia is the author of The Buen Provecho Book, a collection of traditional and contemporary Mexican recipes that also contains insights into Mexican life.

Patricia tells her story in November, along with all the other Maestras, who led the way for the female chefs of SMA.

Stay tuned and Buen Apetito!

In Search of the Perfect Taco

National Taco Day was this past week but who needs a reason to stop by your favorite T-joint for a plateful of delicious tacos? Honesty, I could eat them every day.

Single or doubled, flour or corn, complex or simple, fried or just off the grill, there are never-ending possibilities for a perfect taco but we like this one, the Lamb Shawarma taco, available from The Restaurant at Sabores San Miguel.

 

The catch of this taco tease is that Sabores is an annual event so you have to wait until 2017 rolls around to get another fix.

 

A taco can be whatever you want it to be and that’s the beauty of it. The simplicity is that you don’t need silverware; tacos fit conveniently in your hand and can be devoured in a single bite or two or three. Need breakfast, lunch or dinner? There’s a taco solution for that.

 

The holy trinity: the tortilla, the filling, and the salsa; every element of the taco must be perfect. From sunrise to sunset, here are six spots that deliver the perfect taco with a prevailing taste of the motherland. Bring small change and a big appetite.

 

We’ve been known to eat more than our fair share so when it comes to tacos we only have one rule: never do the math.

Buen Apetito!
  

Tacos worth getting out of bed for, The Taco Lab (in Doce 18 Concept House at Calle Relox No.18) has a three crispy taco combination listed under appetizers. I get one pork belly, one fish and one short rib taco for one of the best and tastiest taco deals in town. The crunchy shell provides a perfect contrast to the fillings. My go-to place on Sunday morning, the fastest way to size up a taqueria is the salsas. This place has three worth tasting; my favorite: the amarillo (yellow) made with tamarind and habanero chili peppers. You wouldn’t need a cup of coffee after this morning jolt. Messy, sure, but who cares? Daily from 10 AM.

 

La Azotea, Umaran 6, has the best artisan taco in town. A texturally adventurous bite, the shell is a thin slice of Jicama that is topped with lightly breaded shrimp, chipotle mayo and a tamarind sauce. The fried leek finish put this taco in a class by itself. From 3:00 PM; closed on Sunday.

 

It’s not a taco expedition in SMA without Arrachera and Muro (Loreto 10B off Insurgentes) has some of the best. The magic here is the flavorful arrachera, melted cheese and caramelized onions; the best combination of ingredients. These next-level tacos are served in something you don’t see every day: flour tortillas. 5 stars for the food AND the service. As Bon Appetit once wrote "in a perfect world, our favorite restaurants would serve flawless food every time but in the real world? Sometimes all you need is to feel like you’re at home...and Muro feels like home. This SMA classic moves to a beautiful, new location before the end of the year, just in time to inaugurate the fireplace. From 9 AM daily; closed on Wednesday.

 

Ground zero for the taco culture in SMA , you won’t need a map; just follow your nose. What makes these porky bits so addictive is they are simmered in lard until fork tender. Guadiana #2 is the kitchen where all of Bautista Brothers carnitas are cooked, so drop by on Monday, the local market day, when the line at this converted garage is shorter than usual. Their textbook salsas deliver a fiery punch; add a peppering of jalepaños to enhance the experience. From 7 AM, they run out early so skip the Cherrios and make it a breakfast. It’s a revered eating experience you wouldn’t find anywhere else. This Bautista Brothers location is one of the best kept secrets in SMA.

 

Don Santos Tacos, Clavel 8 off Refugio Sur, earns its accolades with authentic Mexican food; the real deal is their Taco de Res. A Colonia San Antonio tradition, this taco joint claims a devoted following among Mexicans so you know it’s good. Even Matteo Salas, San Miguel’s top chef, dreams of staging here. Thin strips of beef are cooked in a pile of intestines and chorizo; it’s so well flavored and tender you can’t resist the call for a second helping. Heap on a mound of onions, cilantro and their spicy salsas; the kick adds a whole other layer of flavor to this dish. Don’t forget you’re on Mexican time; Don Santos opens at 6:00 PM but time your entrance for 30 minutes later as they are a bit slow at the start. The communal tables are the place to meet the locals. If you run into more than two gringos in a given night, it’s unusual.

 

Andy's Tacos, on the corner of Insurgentes and Hidalgo, was written up in the Wall Street Journal and owns the show when it comes to Tacos al Pastor in SMA. With both early birds and night owls, this SMA institution caters to enthusiasts of every age. Unlike the other pastor vendors in town, Andy caramelizes the meat to an almost-crunchy texture, shaves the pork off a vertical spit and fries it, adding a splash of red-hot salsa, and kisses it with thin, wide-slices of pineapple. I’ve never found another place in SMA, or Mexico City for that matter, that does better al Pastor. It’s a hard act to follow and if the juices aren’t dripping down your arm by the time you finish, you’d better order another helping. From 7:30 PM to 7:00 AM, Andy's is a favorite of partygoers searching for an after-hours feast. This is one of the best tacos in SMA; we’ve eaten enough of them to know.