Wednesday, July 12, 2023

Los del Barrio Taqueria


Chef Luvia de La Rosa is a standout in SMA culinary circles and has a rather prestigious, culinary history. We called her the female chef to watch when we interviewed her back in 2016 and she has just gotten better and over the years since working and training with some of the best chefs in Mexico including Chefs Matteo Salas and Enrique Olvera. She proudly calls Chef Luis Arellano of Criollo her long-time mentor and friend.    

This former chef from Oaxaca, who also worked locally under talented chefs Israel Loyola at Jacinto 1930 and Davide Giribaldi at Cien Fuegos, has opened a taco stand; a profession that is deeply rooted in the food culture of Mexico. Los del Barrio Taqueria fulfills a childhood dream when seven of her uncle’s were Taqueros; some of which are still in operation today.  

Conrado, Luvia’s father, was the only one of 8 brothers that didn’t have a taco stand but as the eldest son, he somehow became the official taster. Luvia’s grandfather, Maurilio, grew plenty of avocados and lemons and those were often used by Conrado and daughter Luvia to barter for a free taco lunch from her uncles; Conrado’s brothers.

At Jacinto 1930, among the base of their great Mexican recipes was one from Luvia’s grandmother, Julieta - AKA Gloria, which stayed on the menu forever. Chichilo Mole Negro, a very laborious, Oaxacan mole, is considered one of the seven most famous moles in Oaxaca, although it’s the least well known.

Chef Luvia de la Rosa changes up her menu often, which we love, and recently dished up two of our favorites: Chamorro and Suadero, a Mexico City taco where the fat is the key and where there’s fat there’s flavor. She also serves Barbacoa de setas (a vegan option) and Longaniza. Friday specials are Cabeza de Cerdo al Vapor (steamed Pork) and Consomé de Costilla (Rib consome). 

Giving the chef a hand, like Luvia often did with her uncle’s when she was a little girl, is 6 year old daughter, Maria Jose, along with husband, Demetrio Guerrero, who worked for a pretty impressive trio of SMA hotels: The Rosewood SMA, Matilda and Dos Casas. He is also offering concierge services to SMA locals and visitors.


Chef Luvia de la Rosa also does catering and private dinners. The private dinners are her specialty and if you want an authentic, Mexican meal, Chef Luvia de la Rosa is the chef to hire. Meals range from 5 to 10 courses with mole negro, guacamole with herbs and mango, corn bread and Nicoatole - a gelatinous dessert made from ground maize and sugar, flavored with coconut, pineapple, milk, mango and other seasonal fruits as some of the stars. She will work with you to customize each event. For the past four months, Luvia has been the official chef to French Doors (art events) where she meets the artist before the dinner and makes dishes to inspire their art.

Los del Barrio Taqueria is at Fray Juan de San Miguel #19 on the road to Mexiquito, and is open Thursday – Sunday from 7:00 PM – 11:00 PM. Call Demetrio Guerrero for additional information and bookings 415-101-8859. Connect with her on Facebook at La Mesa de Lu Catering and Instagram at La mesa de Lu – Catering and Experiences.

Chef Luvia de la Rosa and Demetrio Guerrero are the first of many young, Mexican entrepreneurs that we’ll feature in articles coming up this summer.