Sunday, November 10, 2013

Aha! Moments

 
An Aha! moment is described as a sudden revelation that elicits joy from a new understanding. 
 
Since coming to San Miguel, I've had many.

 
Traveling:
From Guanajuato, Dolores Hidalgo, Queretaro, Morelia, Patzcuaro, Puebla, Guadalajara,Tonola ,Tlaquepaque,Toluca and Mexico DF to the sleepy little town of Santa Rosa, there have been so many Aha! moments I quit counting.

On the Mexican Tourist Board’s list of 50 cities, I’m about to discover the other 20 I’ve not been to. There are certain to be lots of Aha! moments down the road.
Hiking:
There are so many beautiful places near San Miguel that I would have never seen if it were not for the Sunday Hiking Club. One Sunday you are doing the easy hike – if that’s what you call 16 river crossings both ways - and the next week it’s through remote villages.

You never know what to expect from one week to the next except Aha! moments.
Fiestas:
From Mexican Independence Day to Day of the Dead, Mexico’s biggest holiday, Aha! fiestas are one thing that Mexico does exceptionally well. In fact, there are so many of them I have to reference my Catholic calendar.
 
 Michael Coon cooks Marcella:

Casa de Cocinas is part of my culinary routine every month. This month, in my opinion, Michael Coon did an Aha! tasting - one of his best - honoring Italian chef Marcella Hazan.
 
Stuffed Spaghetti Frittata with Tomatoes, Mozzarella and Ham
 
Polenta with Grilled Portobello Mushrooms in a Balsamic Reduction
 
Fricasseed Chicken Abruzzi Style with Rosemary, Marsala, Cherry Tomatoes and Olives
 
Italian Chocolate Mousse with Raspberries
 
Aha!
 
 
Expect The Unexpected:

What I love the most about San Miguel is that I can turn a corner or go down a street and I never know what I’m going to find. Expect the unexpected. Just when you think that you’ve seen everything, something new appears for yet another Aha! moment.
 
Art:
I’ve finally learned to appreciate all forms of art…a major Aha! for me who only saw it in photography.
Kids:
The purity and playfulness of a Mexican child is amazing. I’m in awe of all the Aha! moments they have given me.

Friends:
After 15 years, San Miguel brought me together with old friends. The moment was so powerful even we cannot explain why it happened and dismiss it to the magic of San Miguel.
 
I meet new people every day. Today I met the woman who teaches a course on Miracles. 
 
Little miracles and Aha! moments happen nearly every day.
 
Food Sources:
Unlike most small towns, San Miguel has a wide variety of direct food sources. This amazes me. 
 
From the Tuesday Market to the Organic Market to Mercado Ignacio Ramirez and all of the specialty stores, I’m spending and enjoying more time in my own kitchen.
Plants:
It’s exciting to me that I have poinsettia plants growing in my garden.

Plants have taken on Aha! status here and I find myself wondering how many species of plants there are in Mexico.

The girl with the brown thumb has grown.
 
 
San Miguel:
There’s something almost divine about the light here, particularly in the late afternoon when all of the weddings and quinceaneras flow out of the cathedral and everything is aglow.

As a photographer, light is everything so Aha! moments happen daily.
 
 
Food:
Is there food more complex than Mexican? Food preparation for family and social events is considered to be an investment in order to maintain social relationships.

The more I learn the more I realize that there is so much more to discover.

 
Another Aha! moment.
 
Buen Apetito!

Consistently Good Food: Hansen's

At Calzada de la Aurora #12, I’ve been to Hansen six times in the past few weeks and honestly I love this restaurant. They are open Friday, Saturday and Sunday and get here early if you want the specials because they sell out.

This restaurant is my first choice for consistently good food.

The under 100 peso Friday and Saturday special for a small steak (and it was good), French fries (and they were good) and a salad was a great buy. I was full and had no room for dessert. This is unquestionably one of the best pieces of beef I’ve had since I've been in San Miguel. On another day, I tried the burger and it was exceptional as well.

One of the best things on the menu is the Caprese salad. We sided 5 people with one salad two nights in a row.


The pork chops were good – two large ones on the plate – but slightly overcooked. This would be my only complaint.


The Tortilla Soup was billed as “The Best in Town”…and it was.

Delicious dessert. It was really rich ...just like great chocolate should be. In fact, I felt guilty after I ate it...also something good chocolate should do.

We had fun leisurely lunches and dinners on both the rooftop and inside. Don’t hurry and enjoy the experience. The Margaritas were 2 for 1 after 5 PM and at every meal the service was outstanding.

I’m planning to split both the Prime Rib and Osso Buco as I’ve heard both are superb. I also want to try the BBQ ribs which were sold out last Sunday. Oh and the chicken liver pate. 

Do you suppose I should stake out a chair for the next few weekends because my brother and brother-in-law will not let us go anyplace else.


Buen Apetito!

Margarita Mixology

Ten Ten Pie told me the trick to making a perfect Margarita is Tequila, Controy (Orange Liqueur) and lemon - equal parts of each.


Café Rama makes theirs with essentially the same ingredients except they use Madrilena Jarabe Natural instead of the Controy and a lime not a lemon. They mix two parts of tequila, one part Madrilena Jarabe Natural and lime juice. They also use a splash of OJ.

When making a Margarita for one, I squeeze three limes or in the case of Ten Ten's recipe, one lemon.


Also, my old standard which is sweeter is:

1 part tequila
1 part Triple Sec
1 part Jose Cuervo Margarita Mix
1/2 part Roses Lime Juice

Do not substitute the Roses Lime. That is the key ingredient.

Happy tasting and let me know when you’ve mastered them. I’ll be right over!


Buen Apetito!

Tuesday, October 29, 2013

Guadalajara…Home Sweet Home


Having lived in Guadalajara in the late 60’s, I’ve always considered Guadalajara my home. It’s the first place I traveled to in Mexico. It’s also the first place I fell in love with.

The food scene in Guadalajara is pretty significant and I will admit it’s the first time I’ve paid attention. From restaurants like La Tequila and Cocina 88, Guadalajara is known for its culinary specialties. Just head to any of the fondas in the Mercado San Juan de Dios for authentic Comida Jalisciense- Food of Jalisco State.

Three of the most traditional dishes I had were: 


Tortas Ahogadas, the signature dish of Guadalajara is drowned sandwiches made with a roll and overstuffed with pork and spicy salsa. They actually reminded me a lot of the tortas at XOCO in Chicago. The bolillo is such a beloved part of the culinary scene here that some aficionados want Denomination of Origin status… just like Tequila.


Pozole is a corn hominy soup made with pork or chicken and you can choose red pozole for hot and spicy or white if you prefer a milder version. The famous La Chata restaurant in downtown Guadalajara serves up an incredible bowl and proof is in their long lines out front.


Birria is a fiery meat stew made with goat, beef or lamb. It’s cooked very slowly with spices in an underground oven. Like Barbacoa, it’s served with onion, cilantro and limes. You can eat it two ways. Spoon the intense dried-roasted pepper caldo into your mouth – my favorite way - or scoop it into a tortilla and eat it as a taco.


Available throughout the city are a range of traditional drinks worth sampling such as these Agua Frescas. You can also enjoy a number of Mexican beers but Guadalajara’s own craft beer, Minerva, produces a pale ale and stout in addition to the more common lagers. This was actually my favorite craft beer when I tried them all at the Beer Company in San Miguel a few months back.


Churros, fritters, rice puddings, pumpkin in tacha and jericalla round out local dessert menus. What’s not to love here? I’ve become a churro fanatic since I’ve been here as they are the most delicious excess to eat off the street.


I went back to Tlaquepaque for the side-walk cafes – been there done that but still fantastic - and of course the Sergio Bustamante gallery…my only non-food indulgence in Mexico this trip.


The Tonola market hasn’t changed much except its gotten bigger. The foods and crafts make this market one of the best Mexico.


At a leisurely and very long lunch at Cocina 88, I tried the Shrimp Al Pastor which was rich and smoky and really outstanding. My friends had the vegetarian rice which I tasted and it was also superb. We of course shared the chocolate pear dessert. It looked better than it tasted and did not have that rich chocolate taste. Cocina 88 is in an old, turn of the century mansion at Vallerta 1342, Colonia Americana in Guadalajara.

      Tequila Photos: Cesar Moscorro Perez

Don’t miss the barrel tastings of ultra-premium aged tequila or a sensory work out in smelling and tasting tequila at distilleries all over the town of Tequila, just 65 kilometers NW of Guadalajara. Currently, there are 154 registered tequila distilleries producing 1,324 certified brands and it seems the number changes almost daily.

Elegant and trendy and so extremely popular now you can find good tequila almost anywhere. It’s come a long way since my first sip (and hangover) back in the summer of 66. In fact, with so much experience under my belt, I’ve decided in my next life I’m coming back as a tequila sommelier.


The highlight of my trip was a dinner with Cupcakes and Crableg’s tequila expert César Mascorro Pérez. As a Regional Manager at The Mexican Trade Commission in Guadalajara, he was in charge of exports for tequila and worked with the US, Central America, South America, Japan, Singapore, Hong Kong, China, Russia, United Kingdom, Germany and Holland. He was an advisor to many international companies on Tequila including my former school, the Universidad de Guadalajara Pro Tequila Industry in collaboration with the University of Notre Dame.

Ask him any question about tequila and he has the answer... except maybe a morning after cure. He is also currently working with Mezcals.


La Tequila was a fitting venue for our reunion since we’ve been family for over 15 years when I first did a marketing study on Tequila distribution in the U.S. for his former company.

Located on Avenida Mexico 2830 in Colonia Ladron de Guevara, La Tequila is rated #1 of 394 restaurants on Trip Advisor, the rating king in Mexico. The tequila selection was extensive and both the food and the service were excellent.

Since there were no gusanos in the kitchen that day (usually tossed in garlic, onions and a little tequila), we ordered a plate of grasshopper tacos. Surprisingly, they were delicious. They are fed apples and roasted in lime chili and salt. The end product is a nutty, crispy, salty and spicy delicacy. It might change your mind about eating bugs.

We also had sopes with bone marrow, pork and chicharrón. I’ve had bone marrow a dozen different ways and this was a unique recipe which I need to try to perfect at home.

This was all washed down with Tequila and Agave Beer with a promise to meet back here soon. And we will. 

Home is where the heart is and food for thought is no substitute for the real thing.


Buen Apetito!

Saturday, October 26, 2013

Remembrance is powerful…


Dia de Los Muertos is Mexico’s most important holiday. We’re getting ready to celebrate this next weekend.

I’ve loved this holiday ever since I lived in Mexico in the late 60’s and saw the family celebrations first hand. The cemeteries are full of all night gatherings and one tribute is as amazing as the next.

This is the most commanding image I’ve seen for Day of the Dead. It was shot by a UPI photographer in Oaxaca and will forever link me to the significance of this holiday when I look at it. It’s compelling.


It’s also a night when you excuse excessive drinking. I will probably slow sip a shot or two of Amores Mezcal. For me, it’s the perfect Day of the Dead drink. Remembering the ones you love.

The holiday is observed November 1st and 2nd – All Saints Day and All Souls Day - and centers on gathering friends and family to pray for, remember and celebrate friends and family members who have died. I love it because it’s a festive and joyous time of celebration.


People build altars at home to honor the deceased using sugar skulls, marigolds and the favorite foods and beverages of the departed. They also go to the cemetery and decorate the grave building altars and staying up all night on November 1st to commemorate.

I started building my altar years ago. I leave it up during the holidays and it is a daily reminder of the magnificent things that people who have passed brought to my life while they were here. My altar is adorned with many things including a bottle of peppermint schnapps’ in honor of my brother Tim and a pomegranate because my dad loved to bring them home every Christmas. My mom loved Chinese food so I often cook Chinese during this time. I also put up a photo of my old boyfriend who is not dead but it is a time of renewal for me. For me, the holiday is that I bury the past and move on with the new. Honestly, it feels tremendous to get rid of the baggage.

So where will you put your altar? Mine is in my kitchen because nearly all of the people I love truly treasure both cooking and eating.

Isn’t it amazing how your culinary style has been defined by the great chefs of your past? Celebrate by creating the dishes they taught you to love to cook.

This holiday also reminds me that there is something comforting knowing you always will be remembered and I’m hoping that my family will celebrate me on Day of the Dead long after I am gone. Don’t forget to bring the tequila.

I’m claiming my seventh life this year so I am definitely celebrating. I hope you will too.


Buen Apetito!