Chicago Gourmet 2012

This was my third year covering this event and I have to admit that every year there are new perks that bring me back.

 

This show celebrates Chicago’s amazing food and the chef’s who inspire us all to go home and cook.

 

 

Nothing better than mixing great food with fine wine and spirits and of course a double dose of people watching.

 

For the first time in 3 years, I popped in on the Grand Cru. Once you expose yourself to wines of this caliber it is difficult to settle for anything less. Honestly, I became a wine snob in one hour without any effort at all.

 

The real excitement for me is discovering new chefs. Every year I go away with a long list of new restaurants to try.

 

 

So what was new?

 

The Purple Pig Roast

When I was at the World BBQ Cookoff in Memphis this year, a pig roast was simply the order of the day.

Chef Jimmy Bannos served up roasted pork and rumor had it that he cooked up ten, 100 lb. pigs throughout the weekend.

Thousands of people lined up for the feed and this proved to be the most popular servings of the show.

 

Design your own chocolate bar by Buick

Did you know in a digital kitchen you can create your own chocolate bar? Enter Buick. Pick your ingredients and they will deliver it to you in a few short weeks.

I can’t wait to get mine – a combination of white chocolate, lemon, bacon and caramel. Have to admit that the combination was really delicious when I took all the ingredients in a little cup and downed it all in one gulp just like a shot.

It was the show stealer I wished I had thought up.

 

Drinks And Other Liquid Indulgences

  

 

I sampled (sips) so many delicious drinks at Chicago Gourmet this year, I quick counting. The remarkable thing was that most drink masters gave away their secrets on a little recipe card. I tucked away at least a dozen.

 

The mixologists (bartenders who take a culinary approach to liquor) were an artistic compliment to the chefs and have definitely created their own big buzz in Chicago culinary circles.

John Besh: A Chef Who Knows His Burgers

One of my favorite New Orleans chefs was the hit of the Hamburger Hop Friday night and proved to be a audacious judge eating so many hamburgers that he was still able to single out the winning few.

Yoshi Katsumura of Yoshi's Cafe in Lakeview, won with an American wagyu burger topped with Asian pear jam, panko-crusted fried green tomato, pickle, brie, microwasabi and a smoky Asian barbecue sauce on a poppyseed brioche bun. Can you say that all without taking a breath?

Matt Troost, chef at Three Aces (one of my favorite places on Taylor Street), was the people's choice winner with a 50-50 mix of prime chuck and sirloin, topped with bacon jam, aged Wisconsin white cheddar, red onion and mesclun greens on a pretzel bun.

Their mystery ingredient? Bone-marrow salt, created by packing bone marrow in salt for several months to let the meaty flavor permeate the salt.

Healthy Eating: Gluten Free

Many athletes I know swear that their performance has improved leaps and bounds by going gluten free. All I know is that when I am on a detox, I feel so full of energy because I am not eating gluten.

I would seriously think about eliminating gluten from my diet for good but I am totally addicted to bread.

You know the MO – preparing to be Italian in my next life.

The Grand Cru: Seriously, A Tequila?

Casa Dragones is the utter magic of Bertha González Nieves, the first female Maestra Tequilera to be certified by the Academia Mexicana de Catadores de Tequila and recognized by the Tequila Regulatory Council.

I’m going to have to ask my tequila friend and expert, César Mascorro Pérez, to weigh in on this tequila because Casa Dragones has set its status as the darling of the culinary world, with utter devotion from culinary experts from across the world.

I have to agree. This was one tequila that was absolutely worth it’s price tag ($250.00) but regrettably out of my budget… but I did savor the taste.

Wiskies of the World

Call it an acquired taste. I’ve decided that I’m going to educate myself on whiskey this year and the Whiskies of the World was my first stop.

It never lacked for customers the entire show and honestly, I tried a few times before I got on the inside asking questions.

Although the blends and distilling techniques are complex, I found the rich and diverse flavors worth the pursuit.

Stay tuned.

Guacamole? Pass the Chicharrones

 

Ask anyone in Chicago who their favorite chef is and Rick Bayless wins the vote every time.

It’s always a full house at the opening of Chicago Gourmet 2012 when Adam Rapoport, Editor of Bon Appetit and Rick Bayless entertain the crowd… and this year with Mayor Emanuel.

What’s new with Chef Bayless besides a cookbook featuring Guacamole and Margaritas? A new tip for Guacamole: Top it off with Hot Sauce, Cheese and Chicharrones.

Whatever you though you knew about cooking, I bet you didn’t know this one? Always deflame the onions. Running water over chopped onions will remove the sulfurous compounds so you will not cry or taste your food long after you have eaten.

 

Science? Hold on. Wasn’t that suppose to be Homaro Cantu’s segment on Kitchen Chemistry 101?

Bon Appetit!

Chicago Gourmet 2012

Where else can you get the magic of 161 celebrated chefs in just one seating?

The full reveal next week.

Bon Appetit!

Best Chocolate Cake

Wisma in Lake Bluff makes the best chocolate cake and I’ve been trying to copy cat for over a year.

When my October issue of Saveur came I saw a photo (the visuals always do it for me) that looked almost like Wisma’s cake except that it was three layer instead of one.

Be careful not to overcook this. Mine did in a little less than 25 minutes.

Best chocolate cake ever?

 

Round 2 was really good but still not quite Wisma's.

Bon Appetit!

Chocolate Cake

For the cake:
1 cup milk
4 oz. unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped
2 cups flour
½ tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. baking soda
1 cup dark brown sugar
1 cup sugar
1 cup vegetable shortening
3 large eggs
1 tsp. vanilla extract

For the icing:
2 oz. unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped
2 cups sugar
½ cup milk
¼ cup light corn syrup
8 tbsp. unsalted butter
¼ tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. vanilla extract

For the cake: Bring milk to a boil in a 1-qt. saucepan. Remove from heat, add chocolate, and cover; set aside for 5 minutes. Stir until smooth. Heat oven to 350°. Grease and flour three 9″ cake pans; set aside. Whisk together flour and salt in large bowl; set aside. Dissolve baking soda in ⅓ cup hot water; set aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat both sugars and shortening until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each, until smooth. Add flour and chocolate mixtures alternately, beginning and ending with flour mixture, and beat until smooth. Beat in soda water and vanilla. Divide batter evenly among pans, and smooth tops. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the middle of the cakes comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes, then invert cakes onto a wire rack to cool completely.

For the icing: Heat chocolate, sugar, milk, corn syrup, butter, and salt in a saucepan over medium-high heat; attach a candy thermometer to side of pan, and cook until mixture thickens and reaches 220° on thermometer.

Pour icing into a mixing bowl; beat on medium speed of a hand mixer until slightly cooled. Add vanilla, increase speed to high, and beat until consistency of frosting. Working quickly, place 1 cake on a cake stand; spread about ½ cup icing on top. Cover with second cake; spread with ½ cup icing. Cover with last cake, and spread icing over top and sides of cakes. Let cool to set icing before cutting and serving.

Atwood Cafe

At 1 West Washington, the Atwood is part of the Hotel Burnham and is a lovely restaurant if you are looking for light. So many large windows on all sides of the room made this location a photographer’s dream.

I was there at 8 AM when they opened. One observation: Showing up when a restaurant opens works for me. Not only do you get great service but the staff has time to chat and you often get some of their will kept secrets.

This dish, a Southerner’s delight, came with a double dose of BBQ pork on a base of cornbread.

I actually made something very similar last year from leftover ribs.

I liked my recipe because the ribs were not as saturated in BBQ sauce but Atwood’s version was really delightful because the cornbread was so sweet.

Tells me I need to work on my corn bread recipe.

Bon Appetit!

 

BBQ Ribs Benedict

1/2 rack ribs
Hickory-hoisin sauce
Corn bread
2 eggs
2 teaspoons white vinegar
Sliced scallions

Take a half rack of ribs (enough for two) and heat it in a 350-degree oven for ten minutes, and then shred the meat off the bone.

Meanwhile, make hickory-hoisin sauce: Bull's-Eye hickory smoke sauce and Lee Kum Kee's hoisin sauce, mixed in a two-to-one ratio.

Toss the meat in the sauce — not a lot, since the corn bread is sweet — and set it on top of a couple slices of corn bread.

Poach a couple of eggs by gently cracking them into a pot of aggressively simmering water with a couple teaspoons of white vinegar. After about two minutes, remove the eggs with a slotted spoon and place on top of the pork.

Finish with some sliced scallions.

Tesori

At 65 E Adams, Chef Andrew Deuel creates a little Alchemy by making the most astonishing seasonal dishes ever. Just take one bite of the braised veal cheeks, anson mills organic polenta, with fall mire poix and you’ll be convinced.

I was on a mission to make veal cheeks today and this Emeril recipe was the picture of my lunch although I must admit that Chef Deuel had his own spin on the flavors.

Bon Appetit!

4 ounces raw bacon, chopped

2 cups chopped onions
1 cup small diced carrots
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons chopped garlic
2 pounds assorted exotic mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
1 cup Madeira wine
4 cups veal stock
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs fresh thyme
8 veal cheeks, trimmed
3 cups whole milk
1 tablespoon butter
3/4 cup yellow cornmeal
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley leaves

In a heavy bottom pan or dutch oven over medium heat, cook the bacon until crispy. Remove the bacon and drain on paper towels. Set aside.

Add the onions and carrots. Season with salt and pepper. Saute until soft, about 4 minutes.

Add the garlic and mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper. Saute for 2 minutes.

Deglaze with the Madeira and cook for 1 minute. Add the veal stock, bay leaf, and thyme, and bring to a simmer.  

Season the veal with salt and pepper and add the simmering liquid. Cook, uncovered until the cheeks are tender, about 1 hour, stirring occasionally to prevent the bottom from sticking.

In a medium-size saucepan, over medium heat, combine the milk and butter. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer. Stir in the cornmeal and cook until creamy and thick, about 4 minutes. Stir in the cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the bay leaf and thyme sprigs from the veal mixture.

Spoon the polenta in the center of each serving plate. Lay a veal cheek over the polenta. Spoon the sauce over the cheeks.

Garnish with the reserved crispy bacon and parsley.

The sweet spot?

A Divino with Vodka instead of Gin, june, dimmi and lemon. Oh and a few grapes floating around for focus. Without a doubt, this was an outstanding mix of flavors.

A tip from the friendly staff at Tesori?

Few Spirits in Evanston, IL brews some of the best small batches anywhere.

I have a brewery tour booked October 6 so look for a follow-up.

Bon Appetit!

Life 101: Do what Makes You Happy...

The kitchen always does that for me.

Bon Appetit!

Sunday Breakfast - Szechuan Style

I am huge fan of green beans fresh from Green City Market and the addition of Sichuan mustard greens makes this dish splendid.

I shallow fry the green beans, a method that blisters them on the outside and leaves them tender on the inside but still have a crunch.

This dish is a great extra to any meal especially breakfast. I serve it hot with a side of eggs.

Bon Appetit!

Gan Bian Si Ji

10 oz. fresh green beans ends trimmed and cut into 2-inch lengths

¼ cup canola oil
2 ounces ground pork
3 tablespoons chopped pickled mustard greens
1 tablespoon Chinese Cooking Wine
1 tablespoons light soy sauce
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper to taste

Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a wok over medium-high heat.

Add the green beans and fry for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Using a perforated strainer, transfer the beans to paper towels to drain.

Add remaining oil , then add pork and stir until brown, about 2 minutes.

Toss in the green beans, mustard greens, soy sauce and cooking wine and stir for 3 minutes.

Stir in sesame oil.

Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve. Serves 2-4.

Caesar Salad

One of the first cookbooks I owned was Julia and Jacques Cooking At Home written by Julia Child and Jacques Pepin. It was given to me as a gift and for the first few years I had it, I barley looked at it.

I have come to love this cookbook because it is a basic of great French cooking… one of those cookbook classics. In fact, everything I have ever cooked from it has been superb.

Although Caesar Cardini, an Italian immigrant who operated restaurants in Mexico, invented Caesar salad, it was Julia Child who brought it front and center to the culinary scene.

Here is a recipe that was modified from Julia’s recipe and is in the current issue of Saveur Magazine. The original recipe did not include anchovy filets; the slight anchovy flavor comes from the Worcestershire sauce.

It was grilling weather this past weekend and this fresh salad was a wonderful addition to a grilled steak, fresh tomatoes and another round of haricot verts.

Bon Appetit!

1 ½ cups olive oil

3 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
8 oz. stale crusty Italian or French white bread, cut into 1” cubes
1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 ½ tsp. Worcestershire sauce
½ tsp. hot sauce, such as Tabasco
4 oil-packed anchovy filets, drained and chopped
Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper to taste
12 oz. whole romaine lettuce, inner leaves only
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 cup finely grated Parmesan

Heat 1 cup oil and 1 clove of garlic in a 12” skillet over medium heat. Add bread and toss often until golden brown and crisp – about 5 minutes.

Transfer to a paper towel to drain.

Rub remaining garlic over inside of a large salad bowl.

Add lemon juice, Worcestershire, hot sauce, anchovies, and salt and pepper, and whisk until anchovies are broken down.

Add remaining oil and whisk until blended.

Add lettuce leaves and toss to coat in dressing; drizzle eggs over leaves, and toss again until evenly coated.

Add reserved croutons, Parmesan and salt and pepper, and toss until evenly combined. Serves 2.

Your Signature Recipe

Cook the same thing over and over until you are known for it.

Bon Appetit!

Bobtail Ice Cream

At 2951 N Broadway, I have reports that the S’More Sensation made with Chocolate Ice Cream, Hot Fudge, Marshmallow and a Crushed Graham Cracker is sensational.

Maybe I’m not one to ask since I made the best ice cream ever last weekend.

 

Bi-Rite’s recipe for Vanilla Ice Cream will make every future ice cream indulgence an AT HOME experience.

Bon Appetit!

Frog N Snail

The dishes at Frog N Snail, 3124 N Broadway, are first and foremost visual. I know. It looks like a mess but it was a pure work of genius.

The chef who succeeded Grant Achatz at Trio , Dale Levitski, had his eye on the fall and took total advantage of what was available – in fact he was still changing the menu when I arrived at 10 AM. That’s a sign of a seasonal chef at his best.

Lucky for me the Curried Lamb Benedict (zucchini bread, spring vegetable salad, poached egg, and foie gras hollandaise) was still on the menu. This was not only a brilliant combination of flavors but was the best Benedict I’ve had in Chicago….and I’ve had a lot of great Benedict.

The petite side salad was also an impressive preparation of beets, cauliflower and white raisins.

I’m not a big fan of zucchini bread but this base layer won me over. The lamb was incredibly rich and tender and the undersized amount of hollandaise (yes, I wondered where the hollandaise was) was the perfect top off.

The foodies around me – and they were all talking food - got interesting dishes as well so my goal is to take the entire neighborhood back and share.

That’s one quick way to knock off the entire menu in just one seating.

Bon Appetit!

Foie Gras Hollandaise

2 egg yolks

2 teaspoons rice vinegar
3 tablespoons raw foie gras
3 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon white truffle oil
Salt and pepper

Puree the foie gras and butter in a blender or food processor until smooth.

Wisk the eggs yolks and rice vinegar in a double boiler or a bowl placed over boiling water until aerated. Quickly begin mixing in the foie gras and butter mixture bit by bit, whisking constantly.

When all the “foie gras butter” has been incorporated, whisk in the white truffle oil.

Season the foie gras hollandaise with salt and pepper to taste.

Molly's Cupcakes

Small batch cupcakes with out-of-the-ordinary center fillings topped and the best buttercream frosting ever.

This one was christened pancakes and bacon.

The hint of infused maple syrup took this cupcake over the top.

For once, it’s not all about the frosting.

2536 N Clark Street

Bon Appetit!

Caesar's - Home of the Killer Margarita

I love the branding at this place. Kind of catchy isn’t it?

But with a totally mixed bag of reviews what do I know except that if you have a few killer Margaritas you wouldn’t care about anything else.

3166 N Clark St

 

Bon Appetit!

Minnesota State Fair – PLAN B

I took a detour from my original list of what to eat at the fair. With the exception of Pork shank, every new item on my Must-Eat List was chosen strictly by the visual.

Visuals always get me in trouble, especially when it comes to food.

I could not give up the conventional fair-feasts of funnel cake and cheese curds nor could I resist anything that looked or smelled even half way amazing. Unfortunately that was just about everything.

I was at the mercy of every aroma and in the case of the pork chop- on -a -stick, I gave into the temptation even though I swore I would not eat anything on a stick. At this point, I had already thrown my healthy eating plan out the window and there was no turning back.

Have you ever had a day of sheer indulgence? This was my day.

Did I feel guilty? Never. You see, I haven’t done this since I was 16 years old. I was making up for lost time.

The mere mention of Bridgeman’s Ice Cream – Minnesota’s best that I grew up on - and I was off to a good start.

I had to fight the crowds and the lines got so long but like everyone else I waited. Everything I tried was worth waiting for.

In no particular order of preference, I had a bite (or two) of:

 

Cheese Cruds

 

Deep Fried Pickles

Carmelicious Ice Cream

 

Chocolate Covered Bacon

Funnel Cake

 

Sweet Martha’s Cookies

 

Cream Puffs 

Pork Chop On A Stick

Chicken Wings

 

Ragin' Ankles

I told my sister before the fair that my goal was to photograph more than I ate.

 

Food promises are meant to be broken.

Bon Appetit!