Some thoughts from Minnesota and Oklahoma as I wrap up my travels for 2014...
Happy New Year!
I was a product of the taste test kitchens at Pillsbury in Minneapolis where I had my first job out of school. A food lover by no means back then, I grew up eating great food at the Nankin Cafe, the Lincoln Del, the North Shore Grill, and Charles Cafe Exceptionale thanks to my mom. She characterized a foodie; she was always planning her next meal even before she finished the one she was eating. That's me.
Cuisine was evolving
and was defined by the likes of The Kings Inn, Lord Fletcher's on the Lake,
Chez Colette in the Sofitel, and T Wright's.
Mixology was simple
and bars like Duff's, Busters, Bunny's or The Leaning Post were serving up
drinks as simple as an ice cold Gin Gimlet. A Heublein canned martini was the
centerpiece of every weekend summer pool party where I lived.
Life was
uncomplicated.
You can travel the
world now and never leave Minneapolis it is that diverse. Ethnicities include
Scandinavians, Germans, British, Italians, and Slavs. Recent immigrants are Hmong
Laotians and Somalis.
People use to think of
Minnesota in terms of Lefse and Lutefisk or even infamous State Fair foods such
as deep fried cheese curds and pickles but New Nordic, a culinary term that was solidified
by the early dominance of the Bachelor Farmer, comfort food such as
beer–infused mac ‘n’ cheese and food truck street like the Chicken Rice Bowls
at World Street Kitchen has placed Minneapolis on the international culinary
map.
One huge advantage
that Minneapolis has always had...its farms. Minneapolis has been using locally
sourced food long before it ever became the popular thing to do.
Minnesota is the
U.S.'s largest producer of sweet corn, sugar beets, green peas and farm-raised
turkey's and corporate food giants like General Mills, Cargill, Hormel Foods
and Land O Lakes call Minnesota home.
612Brew, named after
the Minneapolis area code, is part of a number of microbreweries popping up in
northeast Minneapolis and are supported by home-grown barley and hops purchased
from farmers even before they are out of the ground.
The best doughnut? The
best Torta? Yes, they are here. In fact, it was amazing to me that I came all
the way from Mexico to Minneapolis to get a hallowed Torta fix.
Pheasant Pizza? Wild
game embellishes everything here but it doesn't taste quite so good unless
you've shot it yourself.
Minneapolis knows how
to showcase their pork...Berkshire Pork at The Butcher and The Boar or at Spoon
and Stable where the Grilled Red Wattle Heritage Pork is served up with savoy
cabbage, papaya salad, and thai basil.
And how about the
bakeries? You know the ones where local German and Scandinavian baking
traditions make you wonder who is dreaming up all these unfathomably delicious
sweet treats in the back of the kitchen. It was hard not to become instantly
addicted to the Maple and Bacon Long John's from Hans' Bakery, 3465 Shoreline
Dr in Navarre.
It's also difficult
not to love a city where good restaurants are inexpensive, at least when you
compare them to Chicago prices. My sister and I split lunch at Manny's Tortas
in the World Market and it was about the same price I pay back in Mexico for
one.
Some of these restaurants are local, some are chains, others are institutions or
acclaimed in recent openings. One thing these restaurants all have in common?
Good eats that always find a place at the top of Minnesota’s celebrated food
culture.
Buen Apetito!
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Tucci Benucch
Mall of America
60 East Broadway, Bloomington, MN
The Happy Hour menu
shines (2:30-6:30 PM) and so do the prices. The real standouts: Butternut
Squash Ravioli w Brown Butter Sauce and profiteroles, a French dessert choux
pastry ball filled with ice cream. I could eat at least a half dozen of them
myself but hey, who's counting.
Lord Fletcher's on the Lake
3746 Sunset Drive, Spring Park, MN
Since Lord Fletcher’s
was established in 1968, it has won national awards for its food, wine and
service. I've been going here since they opened. Try a Minnesota Mosquito Bite;
a spicy shrimp and crab bite off the bar menu for Happy Hour. Plenty of other
delicious $5 appetizers. Bring your swimsuit because it's close enough to jump
in the Lake from the summer patio. The best feast of all? ... People
watching.
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Asian Bistro
4669 Shoreline Dr, Spring Park, MN
Kung Poa Chicken, a
spicy Szechwan dish with peanuts, onions, scallions, celery, and dried chili
peppers in spicy sauce and Beef with Asparagus were some of the best Asian
dishes I've had in a long time. Everything is cooked fresh. In fact, the last
time I was in there Theresa was cleaning fish. How's that for a hands-on owner?
Warm up with a bowl of the Hot and Sour Soup. Don't take the fortune cookies
too seriously.
Rancho Grande
1004 Highway 55 East, Buffalo
There is only one
thing on the menu after a long day of shopping at The Porch and Atelier in
Buffalo- the California Chicken burrito with white cheese sauce. Trust me, this
sauce makes the burrito. Going to try to recreate it in my kitchen using white
American cheese, jalapeños and a little alchemy. Yes, I'll put it on everything
it's that good.
Glam Doll Donuts
2605 Nicollet Ave., Minneapolis, MN
I'm a real doughnut
snob and this place takes the cake. One of USA Today's 10 Best Doughnut shops
in America. I tried every doughnut shop in Chicago and none of them compare.
My favorite: the Beer
and Bacon. Other sweet treats include the Chart Topper with peanut butter and
sriracha; the Pucker up, a lemon cream cheese delight; the Dark Angel with
vanilla bean cream and chocolate icing; Daddy Dearest, a cake doughnut with
Surly beer, Surly Bender glaze and bacon crumb topping and the Calendar Girl
made with a double dose of salted caramel and chocolate.
"Best Doughnuts
in Minneapolis 2013" by local weekly CityPages and it's been written up by
other publications as well including the Wall Street Journal.
Located on the corner
of Nicollet and 26th Street, in the heart of Eat Street, I would be in here
every morning if I lived here. Load up because you'll never be satisfied with
just one.
Manny's Tortas
920 E. Lake St., Minneapolis, MN
Thin by Torta
standards, this sandwich is a rule-breaker. 3 Little Pigs - Pork, ham and
bacon- inside a loaf of crusty bread with beans, avocado, jalapeños, and spicy
chipotle mayonnaise over a base of crunchy lettuce. One bite and the pleasure
of eating this sandwich is magnified beyond measure. Manny Gonzalez's Tortas
are on top for a good reason; they're the best tortas outside of Mexico.
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Mayslack's Restaurant, Bar and Music Lounge
1428 4th St NE, Minneapolis, MN
Originally opened in
1955 by former pro-wrestler Stan Mayslack, Mayslack’s is the classic Northeast
Minneapolis corner bar. The bar is legendary for its piled-high roast beef
sandwich covered in garlic, banana peppers, onions, and au jus and served on a
giant rye bun. Not a shy dish, stick with the original.
Take in the view; the
bar still has all of the original decor: pressed-tin ceiling, tile floor and
high wooden booths. Attracts a diverse crowd before and after dark. Don't
forget your dancing shoes.
Rosa Mexicano
609 Hennepin, Minneapolis,MN
This fine dining
chain, with restaurants in many major cities including Dubai, does not have the
best guacamole in the world but does serve beautifully prepared, traditional
Mexican dishes including this plate of Carnitas, perfectly cooked and served
with a side of tasty pineapple bits. Save room for dessert, in particular the
Tres Leches de Zarzamoras. If you get to pick a chain, this is the one.
World Street Kitchen
2743 Lyndale Avenue S, Minneapolis,MN
Known for its Global
street food, I had to go back just to see if the Yum-Yum Rice bowl was as good
as I remembered. A mix of chicken and vegetables cooked in a Korean style
served over steamed rice, Chinese broccoli, shitake mushrooms, soft cooked egg,
aromatic herbs, peanuts, crispy onion, sesame and a secret sauce, this is some
of the best street food I've eaten anywhere. Would be my go-to place for lunch
if I lived here. Other addiction? The Korean BBQ Beef Short Ribs. Mama said
don't fill up on the cookies before your eat your meal but then when did you
ever listen to what your mama said?
Island View Country Club
7795 Laketown Parkway, Waconia,MN
Every Tuesday,
you can get a plate of chicken wings and a beer for under $10. Not your
ordinary wings because these actually have some meat on them. I love the
teriyaki. They also serve Jamaican Jerk, Spicy Thai or Buffalo. Also try a
loaded burger or the overflowing basket of perfectly cooked onion rings. You'll
come under budget unless you start a bar tab. Fries extra crispy thank you.
Elrodeo Mexican Restaurant
13572 80th Cir N, Maple Grove, MN
This family run
business is so authentic even I closed my eyes and wondered if I was back in
Mexico. Try the Taquitos served with a generous helping of beans and rice.
Their most popular item is a $3 Margarita at lunch. You know it's good when
half way through your first one you start speaking Spanish to the staff. Go
ahead. Order another one. They are teeny-tiny. By the way, you're driving.
Birch's
1935 Wayzata Boulevard, Long Lake,MN
Wednesday is a $5
Burger night (served with French fries) but I can't get beyond an $18 platter
of Buckhorn Chicken, a cast iron, pan fried crisp chicken served with a cheese
biscuit, coleslaw and French fries. Don't even think about trying to duplicate
this one-of-a-kind. It's straight-up food porn. Put your name on a barstool
because there's a special every night. Cheer's rerun anyone?
Spoon and Stable
211 North 1st St, Minneapolis, MN
Minnesotan Gavin
Kaysen worked for Daniel Boulud as chef de cuisine at Café Boulud in New York
City, where he earned the James Beard Rising Star Chef award and a coveted
Michelin star. When he decided to open Spoon and Stable, Andrew Zimmern (Travel
Channel's Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern) became one of his investors.
Spoon and Stable’s
name is from Kaysen’s now infamous spoon collection that he has swiped over the
years. The restaurant's building use to be a stable.
At this Minneapolis
hot spot, with reservations sold out through the end of January, we couldn't
resist nabbing a corner booth in the bar and drinking in the beautiful
surroundings not to mention the clientele.
We ate off the bar
menu and these photos were shot in the dark...
Tarte Flambé
spoon and stable ham,
crème fraîche, rye, grape mustard
10
Hand-Cut Fries
béarnaise powder,
herbs de provence
8
Black Truffle Arancini
fontina cheese
10
Gavin Kaysen's food is
hardly ever less than perfect. Every dish was beautifully prepared and
delicious as was the wine, a Reserve White Delaire Graff, Stellenbosch, South
Africa 2011 but a bit on the pricy side at $18 a glass.
Also tempting was a
Belgian Endive Salad with pears, stilton cheese, pecans, and sherry vinaigrette
that Chef Kaysen was preparing in the kitchen as I came by.
Don't forget to book
the Chefs table and try something out of your comfort zone. Make a meal of the
remarkable small plates, appetizers and sides like the Blistered Shisito
Peppers with scallions and soy.
Dessert? Try the Grape
Frangipane with white wine sorbet, poached pear, and almond brittle or the
Chocolate Chiboust with hazelnut praline, banana, and malted milk ice
cream.
Drinks? Try a French
’75 with gin, orange liqueur, thyme, lemon, and sparkling wine or a glass of
Lambrusco di Sorbara, Chiarli, Vecchia Modena, Italy 2012.
It's definitely the
place worth exploring right now.
Some After thoughts:
Chili's! I had not eaten at one in years. The food was a delightful
surprise...especially the desserts!
With Aquavit, a spicy Scandinavian-inspired
liquor on the menu at many restaurants
in Minneapolis, try an Aquavit Bloody Mary to celebrate your Nordic roots...and
if you don't have any you'll think you do after just one glass. It typically
contains 40% alcohol by volume. Put this one on the Bloody Mary tour.
AQUAVIT BLOODY MARY
4 ounces tomato juice
1 teaspoon horseradish
5 splashes Tabasco
sauce
2 splashes
Worcestershire sauce
2 pinches celery salt
2 pinches freshly
ground pepper
Splash of olive juice
Splash of fresh lemon
juice
1½ ounces
Aquavit
For garnish, use any
of the following and remember, more is better if you can get it in the glass.
Asparagus
Avocado
Bacon
Bacon Wrapped Lobster
Baby Corn
Brussels sprout
Celery
Charcuterie
Cherry Tomatoes
Chili Peppers
Cilantro Sprig
Cocktail Onions
Crablegs
Cucumber Spear
Edible Flowers
Green Beans
Green Pepper Ring
Jalapeno Popper
Jicama
Lemon, Lime, Orange or
Grapefruit wedges, wheels, twists or zest
Mini Bacon
Cheeseburger
Mini Grilled Cheese
Sandwich
Mushrooms
Mussels
Okra
Olives – olives
stuffed with blue cheese or peppers always impress
Onion Rings
Pepperoncini
Pepperoni Stick
Pepperoni
Peppers – pickled or
fresh
Pickle Spears
Prawns
Radishes
Roasted Garlic
Sausage
Scallion (green onion)
Skewered Steak Bites
Smoked Oysters
Sugar Snap Wasabi Peas
Tomatillo
Zucchini
Combine all
ingredients except liquor and garnish in a Collins glass. Stir well. Add
Aquavit, ice and shake vigorously.
Home Cooking...
I come from a family
of great cooks. The dishes I ate "in house" were just as good as what
we found out in the restaurants.
The Lasagna, made by
my sister-in-laws cousin was the most delicious I've had anywhere and I'm not a
fan of lasagna; ground beef, pork, pepperoni, and shredded chicken. The ricotta
had chopped spinach, eggs, spices, and Parmesan in it.
Another revelation? My
little sister is a good cook.
Tulsa… Christmas Traditions:
I still believe that
eating together builds closer relationships in the family. One of the many reasons
I love making wontons with Tommy during the holiday season. This year? Tommy
takes 30.
Another meal saturated
in family tradition is the Prime Rib dinner that Thomas cooks every Christmas
Eve.
Bodeans
3376 East 51st Street, Tulsa, OK
This high-end seafood
restaurant is not much to look at from the outside but once you step inside its
magic. From the selection- they fly it in fresh every day, to the service and
the decor; it's all reasons enough to come back.
The crab cakes beat
anything I’ve had on either coast.
The fish - I had
yellow fin tuna- was delicious but the dish that took the night was the duck
with a few scallops on the side...because my son wanted to try both. How is
that for accommodating a guest?
They also have a
seafood market so you can take it home and enjoy the same ocean-fresh taste you
get in the restaurant.
Hop Bunz
3330 South Peoria, Tulsa,OK
This burger joint is
expensive but they bake fresh hot bunz daily and hand-cut French fries from
select Maine Kennebec potatoes adding a Parmesan-truffle flavoring.
This was my
overindulgence; an Angus burger topped with Tillamook cheddar, BBQ sauce, onion
strings, bacon and an egg.
Now why would you
order a burger any other place else?
Hugo's
543 W. Main Street, Jenks, OK
A 3 star Southern
breakfast that is so big and cheap you have to get there early just to get a
seat. The hash-browns – and there is a plate of them- had a special seasoning
and they weren’t telling any of the family secrets that day. $5 for a plate
that’s bigger than you can ever imagine eating…but you do anyway.
TheTavern
201 North Main Street, Tulsa, OK
This place is all dark
wood and sunlight and I felt at home the minute I walked in.
What's with the
burgers in Tulsa? I swore I wouldn't order another one but this particular
variety got my attention ...and I'm glad it did. The Tavern Burger is a
grind of short rib and brisket that is grilled to medium-rare and topped with
Stilton blue cheese, mushroom Cognac cream sauce and served on a
fresh-made-daily challah bun ($13) with a huge pile of shoestring fries.
Their famous Angry Mac
and Cheese is made with a double dose of sambal oelek, a spicy red chili paste.
Its fiery after-notes made this version one of my all time favorites.
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