Before I tell you my favorite things in San
Miguel, I’ve heard yours.
Thanks to all the local readers who have
given me the inside track on where to go over the past five months. You have
moved me in the right direction.
Many of my favorite picks you’ll agree with
but some of them you will not but that’s OK… soft spots are a matter of
personal taste. They have convinced me however that the greatest influence of food
is its power to move not only those who grew up with it but also those who are
tasting it for the very first time.
I’m not pretending to know it all. I came
here five months ago on a whim and I’ve hit up just about every restaurant in
the city more than once. Quite frankly, I wish I had another six months.
What
should be easy categories - Italian, Pizza, Steak and Seafood - are still open.
We’ll see what I discover in my last seven weeks here.
You have your favorites and thanks for
sharing them with me.
Now, here are mine.
Buen Apetito!
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Arrachera: El Tomato
Mesones 62
From the first time I had this early on at
Sabores San Miguel, it remains one of my favorites. Honestly, I judge a
restaurant by how they cook their Arrachera.
Art Classed:
Jane Dill’s Mixed Media Texture and
Abstract Lettering
The Lab -
Hernandez Macias 72
Photo: Jane Dill's Website
Dee Roper’s Mixed Media Class
Dee Roper Gallery, Fabrica La Aurora, Calzada
de la Aurora
I polled a lot of people on this one and got
equally rave reviews back on both.
Artist Attraction: Fabrica La Aurora
Calzada de la Aurora
This place gives me divine inspiration.
A day is simply not
enough time to uncover all of the riches.
Asian:
It’s up the hill to my house. I haven’t found
anything here as good as the Asian I make.
Atmosphere: Nirvana
Camino Antigua Estacion FFCC 21-2, El Cortijo, El Santuario
It’s not just the serenity of the place. Their
mole is some of the best.
Author: Sandy Baum
He’s the author of seven books on San Miguel
and he’s a great chat when it comes to learning about where to travel in
Mexico. You’ll find him Saturday mornings at the Organic Market if he’s in
town.
Photo from Sandy Baum's website
Bar: La Sirena Gorda
Calle Barranca and Huertas
This place is an institution. Need I say
more?
Barbacoa: Family Rodriguez
El TianguisTuesday Market
It was love at first bite but it was the
Caldo that really won me over.
Bed and Breakfast:
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$ Marica Dolce
Margarito
Ledezma #12
One of the most economical Bed and Breakfasts
in San Miguel.
Owner Marcia Dolce gives you your money’s worth… and a few dozen
laughs while she’s at it.
$$ Casa de la Cuesta
Cuesta de San Jose #32, Colonia Azteca
The
most beautiful Bed and Breakfast in San Miguel houses the renowned Mask Museum.
Surprisingly inexpensive for the level of luxury.
BLT: Mesa Grande
Zacateros 49
I would give this one on appearance alone to
The Restaurant but the sandwich from Mesa Grande kept me connected to summer.
Got me craving the flavor of their bacon on that crunchy wheat bread like a
true BLT should.
Bolillos: Panaderia El Maple
Salida a Celaya #51\
Goes on my binge-food list. Eat them while
they’re fresh and hot.
Bread: MiVida
Calle Hernandez Macias 97
A lot of good bread around but few with the
substance of their Focaccia and miniature 15 peso pizzas.
Breakfast:
$ Café Monet
Zacateros #83
$ Moxi
at Hotel Matilda
Aldama 53
$$The Sierra Nevada
Hospicio 35
Café Monet has a great 40 peso breakfast.
Moxi serves a fruit plate and yogurt for just 55 pesos or order off the menu at
Sierra Nevada which has pancakes drowned in toffee-cajeta butter or a remarkable
Egg’s Benedict with homemade chorizo.
Burger: Make it At Home
I’ve had some pretty good burgers all over
town but none compare to my own. Buy the meat at Carniceria Los Tres Huastecos,
Carlos Del Castillo 4, Colonia Guadalupe. They grind flank steak fresh when you
ask for Molida Especial.
Cajun: Hank’s
Hidalgo 12
Americanos love Hanks…and what’s not to love
about the Soft Shell Crab Sandwich or the gumbo...or the Bull Fights of which
Hank’s is a major sponsor.
Carnitas: Bautista Brothers
El TianguisTuesday Market
I can make them at home but they are such an
easy pick-up on Tuesday. Many are over done and dry but these are pretty perfect.
Cheese: La Cava
Zacateros79
Love Blue Cheese. My favorite addiction and
this place turned me into a bona fide cheese aficionada.
Chef: Chef Jose Bossuet Martinez at Café
Contento
Hernandez Macias #72
Lots of good chefs in San Miguel but few who
have a real passion for authentic Mexican.
Chocolate: Chocolates Johfrej
Calle de
Jesus 2A
Addictive Hot Chocolate and the pitcher holds
two cups for the price of one.
Coffee:
$Café Cathedral
Canal 88
$$Café Organico de Chiapas
Sollano 11
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$$Café Buen Dias
Callejon del Pueblito #3-A
Impossible to pick just one. Café Cathedral
does the textbook blends. Café Organico de Chiapas uses the best coffee. Café
Buen Dias gives you the best design.
All of them a great AM wake up call.
Cooking Classes: Michael Coons The Inside
Route Tour Company.
Casa de Cocinas – San Antonio
Casa de Cocinas – San Antonio
This chef offers hands-on classes and tastings
in case you want to just sit back and eat. Inspiring food and first-rate company.
Craft Beer: The Beer Company
Ancha de San Antonio 17
So much about The Beer Company, their home-brew
Dos Aves and Mark Taylor, the supreme brewmaster, that I loved as a novice.
Look for their special Christmas brew and tell me what I missed.
Dessert: Burnt Caramel Ice Cream
with Marshmallow Sauce and Salted Spanish Peanuts
The
Restaurant, Sollano 16
I’ve tried them all. To die for flavors and a
super big helping equals I could eat this for breakfast…like every day.
Other really good desserts as well.
Dish: 1st: Cemitas 2nd:
Mixiotes
I know they don’t make them here but I am
still dreaming about Cemitas. Second choice: Mixiotes
Doughnuts: La Buen Vida
Hernández Macías 72
What do they use to make these doughnuts so
delicious? Bigger and better than any I’ve had in the states.
Drinks: Tie- Atole and Mezcal
One for breakfast and the other…well, you can
sip Mezcal at breakfast too if you like. Both will warm you up.
Event Information: San Miguel Events
A lot of sources here but San Miguel Events gives
the most comprehensive review of what’s going on this week…and I always want to
know.
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Farmers Market: Saturday Organic
Market
Corner of Ancha de San Antonio and Cardo on
the grounds of Rosewood
I’ve met so many new people when I come here
for breakfast that I also call this the social event of the week. Get here early
as the best produce goes quickly.
Flautas: El Tucan
Hernando Macias #56
Where can you get a plate of delicious
flautas like this for 25 pesos? What Guy calls a dive…but the best dive in San
Miguel.
Food Festival: Sabores San Miguel
Parque Juarez
Parque Juarez
Can’t wait to see what they come up with for 2014
because the show this year was first-class.
French Fries: Moxi at Hotel Matilda
Aldama 53
Truffled and covered in parmesan cheese. Close your eyes
because this is what heaven tastes like.
Gringa Pigout: McDonalds
Plaza La Luciérnaga - Libramiento Manuel
Zavala # 165
Sometimes I just crave American and this is
just about as American as it gets. This is one place however I never eat at in
the states.
Grocery Store: Bonanza
Mesones
43-A
My go -to place when I need some exotic
ingredient.
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Holiday: Day of the Dead
From
the exquisite altars to decorating the graves to partying all night, it’s one
celebration I’m going to get to do with my brother and sister this year.
Ice Cream: Thrifty
Celaya
#3-A
Lots of discussion on Ice Cream but this
brand offers the highest butterfat content and butterfat matters. Just have to
do a few laps around Juarez Park before you indulge.
Icon: BVM
I grew up
catholic and can safely say that I’ve reconnected. She is everywhere.
Indian: Bhaji
Cuadrante 34
Not Devon Street in Chicago but San Miguel
good.
Italian: TBD
Lots of pizza, pasta and parmesan to sample.
Stay tuned and make recommendations.
Local Artist: Anado McLauchlin
Cieneguita
Visit the fantasyland at Casa De Las Ranas
and find out why Anado is the most resourceful artist in San Miguel.
Local Jeweler: Luna Morn
Artisan Market at Balderas and Colegio
Luna Morn has so
many original Virgin de Guadalupe pieces… all at terrific prices.
Margarita: Café Rama
Calle Nueva 7
I tried to find another Margarita I like
better but this is still my favorite…despite the 90 peso price tag.
Market: La Pulga Flea Market
Salon Los Pinos, Real Salida a Querétaro #145
Creative food vendors, great treasure hunting
and super bargains. The vendors here take great market to another level.
Martini Bar: Martinez Bar
El Meson
Hotel, Mesones 80
You’ll be confused when you see the menu.
Don’t care about the glass they are served in because all of them deliver a
kick and a half.
Meat: La Lonja
Mesones #33
The shop is immaculate and they have good
quality meats. That’s reason enough for me.
Mexican Handicrafts: Yaruke
Hernandez Macias 93
Yolanda Varela is one of the nicest shop
owners in San Miguel. The quality and price of her treasures are worth a look… and
a purchase.
I always find the unusual here like this Day of the Dead gift.
Mural Artist: Chet Kempczynski
I
watched his work in progress all summer and the colors of San Miguel speak to
me every morning.
Museum: Mask Museum
Casa de la Cuesta - Cuesta de San Jose #32,
Colonia Azteca
Impressive
collection of ceremonial masks. If you call, they give you a personal tour. One
of the most attention-grabbing places in San Miguel.
Nighlife: Hacienda de Guadalupe
Hidalgo #4
Reserve Table 34. We had a great time here
every Thursday night dancing to the Cuban sound. Ask of the 2 for 1.
Pastry Chef:
$$Paco Cardenas Baez, Petit Four
Bakery
Mesones 99
$Ma. Guadalupe Lopez, Reposterio
Pegaso
Corregidora 6
To die for chocolate indulgences at Petit
Four and good quality pastry from the chef whose son religiously licks her
spoon every Saturday morning.
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People Watching: The outdoor seating
at Ten Ten Pie
Cuna de
Allende and Cuadrante
So many wonderful people watching moments at
this corner I quit counting. I’ve seen just about everything from this table…
just not my prince.
Place to Explore: The Campo
There’s a lot of land to explore
in the campo…most a very short distance from San Miguel. Check out the San Miguel Hiking Club to see it all.
Photographer: Jo Sanders, Javier
Barras and Barry Weiss
Academia de
Fotographia, Mesones 57 Interior
#B
From their gallery meet-ups every Thursday to
field trips around Mexico, Jo and Javier deliver a long-lasting educational
experience.
San Miguel photographer Barry Weiss will show
you what chasing your dreams and pursuing a passion is all about.
Pizza: TBD
Haven’t quite nailed this down yet. Chicago
pizza is hard to do a one-up on.
Produce: Vegetable Guy from Celaya
Salida a
Celaya # 51 in front of El Maple
He’s not there every day but when he is he’s
got exquisite produce at a great price. Last trip I got a huge bag of beautiful
baby tomatoes for 10 pesos.
Queso Fundito: La Posadita
13 Cuna de Allende
Rick Bayless’s go-to Mexican in San Miguel.
Mine too!
Quiche: Isabelle Ortega
Corner of Ancha de San Antonio and Cardo on
the grounds of Rosewood
Isabelle’s pies are authentically French
and C'est
Delicieux!
Ribs: The Restaurant
Sollano 16
Since I didn’t have a BBQ this summer, the
Restaurant helped me curb my cravings by providing the best rib stack drowned
in Teriyaki sauce for just 100 pesos.
Restaurant: The Restaurant
Sollano 16
No matter how many times you debate it, Chef
Donnie Masterton delivers. When I want a great meal, this is where I always
land. They are consistent and rarely miss the mark.
Rooftop: Tie:
$$$ Luna Rooftop at the Rosewood
Nemesio Diez 11
$$ La Azotea
Umaran 6
I love rooftops and these are two of the best.
Weather perfect moments that serve small plates and healthy size drinks…not to
mention the views.
Rugs: Margarito
Jimenez M.
Sterling Dickinson #15, San Antonio
These rugs are so beautiful and thick you’ll
sink into them…and the prices will surprise you. You can custom order. His loom
is in his shop which makes it an interesting trip.
Seafood – TBD
Being this far from the coast I’m skeptical. Open
to some additional recommendations but so far a no-go for me.
Service: Muro
Loreto 10B
Not only do they have great food, but the
service here is the unsurpassed and that’s why guests have voted this place
number one on Trip Advisor.
Shopping - Women:
$Chaskis
Calle Juárez #15 across from San Francisco
Church
$$Sofia Collection
Jesus #5
$$ Black and White Botique
Margarito
Ledezma #12 – Colonia Guadalupe
$$$Diva
Hernandez Macias #72
From low end to high…these are the top women’s
clothing shops to browse and buy. All four have impressive selections.
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Shopping: Calle Loreto
Plenty of little Mexican handicraft shops
on this street to explore. In many cases, prices are really hard to beat.
Sombreros: Mercado Ignacio
Ramirez
I’ve
gotten into hats since I came to San Miguel. Do I need another one? Don’t even
have to think about that question.
Steak –TBD
So many places recommended to me but none of
them have captured the enormous flavor of the just- off- the- grill steak. I’m
from Chicago so I’m kind of picky.
Taco: La Azotea’s Jicama Taco
Umaran 6
Delicious, atypical and hands down the best
at 45 pesos a pop.
Tequila: Too many great brands to
pick a favorite
I’m a tequila girl from way back and after so
many tastings, it’s hard to say which tequila is my favorite. I like them all.
Photo by Cupcakes and Crablegs Tequila Expert Cesar Mascorro Perez
Wine Store: La Europa
Canal 13
Best prices in San Miguel. Friends have
turned me on to XA Vinos DOMECQ Blanc de Blancs (White) and the L.A Cetto Petit
Shiraz (Red). Both are under 90 pesos a bottle and delicious.
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