So what do I know about the food in Mexico? I’m thinking NADA - this from the girl who didn’t eat her first Tijuana Taco until just last week. It changed my entire perception of what a taco should be.
Tijuana is a culinary hotspot, where tacos don’t just rule the menu—they wear the crown. After 60 years of eating in Mexico, I’m still being introduced to so many I never knew existed. I’ve actually spent little time in Tijuana except for drinking really bad tequila in my early twenties, so when my friend, Lizette Angel, the owner of Cenaduría La Terraza at Lolita brought her hometown taco to her SMA restaurant, I was there. <>
It should be noted that last year, I survived a self-imposed taco marathon in Mexico City: 30 days,sometimes four taco stops a day. I thought I had worked my way through the entire taco curriculum of Mexico but it turned out I hadn’t even discovered one of its brightest stars. <>
The Carne Asada is first marinated in a secret sauce. I have absolutely no idea what’s in it, but if it’s ever classified as a national treasure, I wouldn’t argue. I can’t think of a single thing that compares to the exceptional flavor of this beef. The surprising after taste reminded me that I actually skipped Tijuana on my taco tour last year for no good reason. Now I understand why Tijuanenses are convinced their tacos reign supreme. Even better than Mexico City, I quietly questioned, as though I had just lit the fuse under one of Mexico’s oldest culinary debates. We know one thing for sure: Lizette Angel has found her niche with two delightful foods that totally caught our taste buds off guard:The Taco de Carne Asada is a Charcoal-grilled steak served on handmade corn tortillas with simmered beans, avocado, cilantro, and onion. If you can still see the steak, you probably haven’t added enough toppings. Load it up; that’s what makes it authentically Tijuana. The Torta de Carne Asada is a Charcoal-grilled steak served on toasted ciabatta with mayonnaise, lightly pickled tomato and onion, and avocado purée. Bring extra napkins and a good excuse for ordering a second one, because one will not be enough.<>
Lizette was born and raised in Tijuana and lived there for 32 years. When she was just a kid, her father would take the family out at night for street tacos. Their favorite destination was Las Ahumaderas, the legendary row of taco stands near the Plaza de Toros de Tijuana, also known as the Bullring by the Sea, a famous oceanfront stadium in Tijuana where some of the city’s first carne asada tacos became famous. “Before you even arrived there, you knew you were getting close because the smoky aroma of charcoal drifted through the neighborhood, making your mouth water before you took your first bite, she said” This style of taco can be found throughout Tijuana, often elevated with a variety of outstanding salsas; some of which Lizette serves with her Tijuana offerings at Lolita. “The city’s most iconic stand today is Tacos El Frank, recognized by the Michelin Guide” Lizette said.
“The torta tells a different Tijuana story, Lizette said. It was inspired by Las Tortas del Wash, a legendary sandwich stand beside a car wash called Wash Móvil. Every morning the charcoal grill was fired up, and by midday they had usually sold out. For anyone from Tijuana living far away from home, these tacos and tortas aren’t just good meals but memories; the flavors people miss the most, carrying them back to family traditions in a city that’s always known how to cook over charcoal.”
At Lolita, the torta is prepared on Pedro Escamilla Maza of Buonforno’s ciabatta, which is a totally new take on a torta. The ciabatta is spread with mayonnaise and toasted directly over the charcoal, allowing the bread to absorb the smoky flavor of the fire. It’s no wonder the flavor got such high marks on the very first bite. <>
There’s an old saying that less is more. I’ve learned that the simpler the taco, the more talented the taquero has to be. Simplicity is definitely the secret here and a truly great taco isn’t the one you remember while you’re eating it - it’s the one you’re still thinking about tomorrow and the day after that.<>
No question we’ll all be back before the week is over: Chef Michael Coon, along with Pepe Martinez and Jay Jones, chronic visitors from San Diego who also crave the flavors of a Tijuana Taco as often as they crave the magic of San Miguel. Fortunately, both cravings can now be satisfied at the same table here in San Miguel. <>
Lolita a la Parrilla! Lizette is looking forward to you trying all their new charcoal-grilled dishes and best yet, the menu is priced right: Carne Asada torta $195 pesos; 2 carne asada tacos $195 pesos; Guacamole $190 pesos, con chicharrón $230 pesos.
How's that for another version of affordable SMA?<>
Cenaduría La Terraza at Lolita
Salida a Celaya 52
San Miguel de Allende
8:00 AM - 8:00 PM except Sunday closes at 6:00 PM
