Pasteur...A French Vietnamese Classic

I love Vietnamese food. In fact it’s my favorite cuisine and Pasteur (5525 N Broadway) has skillfully recreated some of the authentic Vietnamese classics.

Interestingly, they do not do fusion. Instead they happen to have some classic French dishes on the menu too so you can mix your meal like I did.

With fish sauce, soy paste, fresh herbs and vegetables, Vietnamese is one of the healthiest cuisines in the world. The meats and vegetables are briefly cooked and when you throw in a bit of lemongrass, mint, coriander and Thai basil, you’ve got the most aromatic cuisine around. I also love the colorful, spicy and flavorful condiments such as the Nuoc Mam.

Dishes such as phở, bún riêu, bánh cuốn are classic in the Vietnamese kitchen as well as central Vietnam’s bún bò Huế and bánh xèo.

Central Vietnam cooks up some of the spiciest food in the country so I need to find more recipes from this region as I love spice.

Outside influences?

Vietnamese food has a powerful vegetarian tradition influenced by Buddhist ideals. Thus all the veggies floating in my soup today.

The French introduced baguettes which were stuffed with Vietnamese meat and pickled vegetables to become the banh mi, the most profitable French-Vietnamese culinary merger ever and a popular street food in Vietnam.

India’s inspiration lead to the adoption of curry in Vietnamese cuisine and that is one dish that I have yet to wrap my arms around but I am trying.

The service at Pasteur is typically French where they take time to introduce each course and you take the time to appreciate each and every bite.

I had Vegetarian egg rolls served with lettuce, pickled vegetables and Nuoc Mam. followed by Tamarind Shimp soup. The soup was delicious, filled with a ton of fresh vegetables and the pineapple gave it a full and rich flavor. In fact, I think that’s the first time I’ve had pineapple as an ingredient in my soup.

My main course was Confit Duck Legs with cauliflower puree, and a Grand Marnier and orange reduction. The duck was perfectly cooked and to my surprise, the side - the cauliflower -was my favorite dish of the meal.

So who is the French in this interesting equation?

Eric Aubriot was born in Paris, has been twice nominated for the James Beard Rising Star award and I should have guessed is a product of Carlos in Highland Park.

Come to think of it, just about every great French chef has Carlos on his resume somewhere.

Bon Appetit!

Honey Nut Cheerio Infused Rum

My absolute favorite drink is a Mai Tai.

Blended correctly (no store bought mix) with fresh ingredients, it is a delicious favorite of just about everyone I make them for.

This is not just a summer drink. I make them up year round.

Speaking of Mai Tai’s… my new batch of Honey Nut Cheerio Infused Rum make great Mini Mai Tai’s and I always like to try new recipes.

1 ½ oz Honey Nut Cheerio infused rum 
1/2 oz creme de almond
1/2 oz triple sec
sweet and sour mix
pineapple juice

Any way you mix this one up, one sip and you'll be ready to pack your bags and go on a cruise.

Remember the original Trader Vic’s recipes (and they are still the best) have no juice in them and TV swears by no juice.

I’ve tried for years now to decide which one I like the best. You tell me.

Guess I’ll have to try a few more and let you know but don’t anticipate an answer any time soon. I'm on Mai Tai time.

Bon Appetit!

1944 Original Formula

2 ounces of 17-year old J. Wray & Nephew Rum over shaved ice.
Add juice from one fresh lime.
1/2 ounce Holland DeKuyper Orange Curacao.
1/4 ounce Trader Vic's Rock Candy Syrup.
1/2 ounce French Garier Orgeat Syrup
Shake vigorously.
Add a sprig of fresh mint

1997 "Old Way" Mai Tai Formula

1 ounce Fine Jamaican Rum (15 or 8 year old)

1 ounce Martinique Rum (St. James)
1/2 ounce Orange Curacao
1/2 ounce Orgeat Syrup
Juice from one fresh lime (about 3/4 ounce)
Mix and serve as in the Original Formula

My New Addiction?

World market's Limoncillino. 
 

The unique little glass is from Art Effect at 934 West Armitage. You’ll find so many things here that you don’t find any place else in Chicago.

I had to hold back after purchasing three adorable glasses including this tiny wine glass which is a perfect start for a healthy New Year.

Bon Appetit!

Creating A Signature Dish

The secret of many successful cooks is not that they are experts at everything. It’s that they have learned to do one or two things really well. They have a signature dish.

The best way to create one is trial and error. I know because most of my signature dishes were errors in the beginning…one after another. Oft times I was ready to give it up but then I had another idea to substitute an ingredient or cooking method. With time, my efforts were rewarded but it did take a lot of testing and experimentation to get there.

Remember, cooking is science…which reminds me that I really need to spring for a copy of Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking. It’s down to $468.37 from $625.00 on Amazon. I know. Somehow it’s hard to part with that much cash.

As I continue to think about it you continue to cook.

First, find a recipe that you love, begin to experiment with it until you get it perfect. Yes perfect. Make it over and over again until you can do it in your sleep. You know the old saying: Practice makes perfect? Like anything it does.

Don’t forget to ask for feedback from everyone you cook it for because they feed you your best ideas on how to improve it.

Also make sure that you keep the ingredients on hand so if you get an inspiration in the middle of the night, you have everything you need to start cooking it at 3 AM.

Breakfast anyone?

Bon Appetit!

Marc Burger

Tucked into a sunny corner on the 7^th floor of Macy’s food court is Marc Burger. The Marc is Marcus Samuelsson, and Marc Burger is his farm to table, fresh ingredient burger joint.

I ordered the Marc Burger with the fried egg and the steak sauce and it was good but not sure it was worth the $12 price tag. Next time I will order his award winning BBQ Burger that was being devoured at the table next door.

Doesn’t that always happen? You look over and wish you had ordered what the guy next door is eating.

Great Side kick: The flavored ketchup.

French fries were interestingly seasoned as was the chocolate shake... they made theirs with custard instead of ice cream.

I was certain when the waitress handed me a frequent dining card, I looked like I would be coming back.

Her first clue: Not a thing left on my plate…or the plate next door.

Bon Appetit!

Making A Perfect Bloody Mary

tomato juice - homemade lemon or lime juice
horseradish
Worcestershire and Tabasco
black pepper
celery salt
celery
lemon wedge

How did my friend the food scientist describe these ingredients that are basic to a bloody mary? “They have a central flavor volatile, a flavor non-volatile for a definite taste and an aroma that fades out for a perfect ending.”

Enough about science because most of my friends describe this combination as essential to  a perfect Bloody Mary.

You can make them visually interesting by garnishing with just about anything including pickled brussels sprouts, turnips, green beans, radishes, pickles, olives or caper berries.

I’ve even heard of a green bloody made with tomatillos, lime, cilantro, pineapple and tequila and another with pureed yellow heirloom tomatoes and tomato-infused vodka. Whatever way you mix it, put on your signature touch and people will remember.

Here are some things to remember:

Use Only The Best Ingredients

Fresh cut lemons and limes, beautiful, plump fresh tomatoes, shaved fresh horseradish. Honestly, everything needs to be fresh because the freshest ingredients produce the strongest bouquet and taste.

Make Tiny Drinks

The blend of ingredients is very unbalanced chemically and starts to taste different within a half hour after it is made. Make tiny drinks to get the best flavor

Make A Fresh Mix

If I did one thing to improve the quality if a bloody mary, it would be a fresh mix. Best time to do this is during framers market when tomatoes are at their prime.

Use homemade infused vodka

The robust, spicy flavor of a Bloody Mary overpowers the flavor of the vodka, so don't use a premium vodka but a homemade infused vodka.

I’ve tried everything from lemon to tomato infused vodka but I like this pepper infused which really gives the bloody a kick.

Pepper Vodka

1 serrano chile, stemmed, seeded, and quartered lengthwise
1 jalapeno chile, stemmed, seeded, and quartered lengthwise
1 red habanero chilie, stemmed, seeded, and quartered lengthwise
One 750-ml bottle good-quality vodka

Place the chiles in a large glass container, add the vodka, and cap.

Let stand at room temperature for 48 hours, shaking once or twice a day.

Infuse for a few days and taste daily until it is perfect. Don’t allow it to infuse longer than 2 weeks, or the vodka will have a bitter flavor.

Strain the infused vodka. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Bon Appetit!

Fried Green Tomatoes

I love fried green tomatoes especially on Sunday morning when neighbors drop over because they know I’m frying them up. I paired them today with poached eggs and day old Brioche.

You’ll love this recipe with the flour and cornmeal mix. Really gives the crust a delicious crunch.

Bon Appetit!

Fried Green Tomatoes

1 large egg, beaten

½ cup buttermilk
½ cup self-rising cornmeal mix
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon pepper
½ cup all-purpose flour
3 medium-size, firm green tomatoes, cut into 1/3-inch-thick slices (about 1 1/4 lb.)
Vegetable oil

Whisk together egg and buttermilk. Combine cornmeal mix, salt, pepper, and 1/4 cup flour in a shallow dish. Dredge tomato slices in remaining 1/4 cup flour; dip in egg mixture, and dredge in cornmeal mixture.

Pour oil to a depth of 1/2 inch in a large cast-iron skillet; heat to 375° over medium-high heat. Drop tomatoes, in batches, into hot oil, and cook 2 minutes on each side or until golden. Drain on paper towels. Sprinkle hot tomatoes with salt to taste.

Skirt Steak...Revisted

How many people have told you that a skirt steak needs marinating to be tender? I did not marinate this steak which is against every rule in my food preparation memory. I was really hesitant to use this recipe but it came out absolutely perfect and was so enjoyable.

The recipe calls for cooking 2 minutes per side. I probably cooked it 4 minutes on each side as this skirt was a little thicker than most.

I like the Chimichurri sauce – a tasteful addition with the olive oil which is what I usually marinate it in.

What I really liked about this recipe is that the true flavor of the meat came out . Wow – is this what skirt steak tastes like? I simply rubbed the meat down with some sea salt and fresh ground pepper before putting it on a very hot grill.

Bon Appetit!

Skirt Steak With Chimichurri Sauce

2 cups chopped parsley

2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
6 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons minced garlic
2 teaspoons crushed red pepper
Salt and freshly ground pepper
4 pounds skirt steak

Light a grill. In a bowl, mix the parsley, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and crushed red pepper; season with salt and pepper.

Season the skirt steak with salt and pepper and grill over a hot fire until the meat is charred on the outside and rare within, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a carving board and let rest for 5 minutes. Thinly slice the steak across the grain.

Serve right away, passing the chimichurri sauce at the table.

BopNGrill's Korean Dinner

“The Consulate General of the Republic of Korea in Chicago and Chef William Song cordially invite you to a Korean Cuisine tasting event featuring classic Korean street foods as well some never-before-tasted fusion dishes created especially for this event.   
 

All we ask in return are your honest opinions and for you to enjoy the food and company.”

I get a lot of invitations to eat out. One of my favorite invites is for Korean food so when I got this invitation and found I was booked, I sent my young friend Andrew who loves to cook and eat Korean food. He cooks it often when he is not at his mom’s house devouring authentic Filipino.

Here are Andrew’s animated notes from the night…

Susan from Cupcakes and Crablegs was generous enough to pass on her tickets to bopNgrill's tasting event.

Traditionally, I am not one for fusion food, as it tends to mute the flavors of either cuisine.  However, I came to really appreciate Chef Will's seamless integration of traditional Korean elements into classic American food. 

Burgers, fries, risotto, and cocktails were all given a very refreshing Korean flair; traditional Korean dishes were also treated to some unexpected American flavors as well.

Upon entering bopNgrill's new restaurant location, Kristin was there to greet me and direct me to the cocktail table. Score! There were 2 kinds to choose from, a traditional rice wine, and a cocktail mixed with a pomegranate blend and vinegar.

We sat down to three different dipping sauces, gojujang, saamjang, and a sesame soy mix. 

The first dish we were brought was a traditional duck rice cake, wrapped in bacon and interspersed with fish cake in bamboo skewers…they were fresh out of the kitchen; the crispy salty bacon played well with the soft textures of the cakes.

Next, we had a preparation of bulgogi, a garlic, soy marinated beef, sliced thinly. Traditionally you would use a sweet element like pear juice in the marinade, but this was stuffed inside horizontally cut eggroll wrappers and slathered with Velveeta. Wow.

After the bulgogi, we had a hefty crab cake. The exterior was nice and flaky, and had a drizzle of kimchi tartar on top.  This was a fine example of how a slight Korean touch really gave a traditionally American dish an unexpected Asian element.

Guess what, finished this one as well.

We had a few moments to contemplate how full we were getting, before we were brought Styrofoam clamshells with toothpicks protruding from them. I wonder what could be inside?

Aah yes, Chef Wills signature kimchi burger and fries. A perfectly done slider, with a kimchi topping and cheese. 

This blows your standard texmex bar and grill faire out of the ocean. A salvo of kimchi fries, also greased with cheese ensured we would get 3x our recommended calorie intake for the day but I didn’t care. This was a feast.

As a departure from the dishes we enjoyed, we were treated to juk ( rice porridge) but prepared as a risotto. Kimchi and an orchid flower sat atop. 

This was a very refreshing presentation of the porridge. The texture was amazing.

At this point I questioned the strength of my stomach. I sat down to a presentation of greens and homemade kimchi and wondered what this was all about?

I snacked on some mild jalapeno slices and suddenly, a huge slab of pork shoulder was placed in front of us.  The size suggested the pigs that graciously donated themselves for our high-living were upwards of 275lbs.

They were cooked slow and low, using a dry rub of salt pepper and brown sugar. Roasted heads of garlic were at the perimeter of the presentation.  Will said the shoulder was uncovered the last few moments to build an appreciable crust. 

Whatever, enough with the scientific banter, LETS EAT!

Chinese New Year's: Before The Parade

Sourcing Global Ingredients: McCormick’s 2012 Flavor Pairings

When the 2012 McCormick’s Flavor Pairings came out, I knew that I was going to be on the hunt for ingredients (one of my favorite things to do) because McCormick created it’s very first global forecast. 
 

Get your passport out and pack your bags because this forecast will take you on a genuine flavor journey.

A worldwide group of food professionals, including McCormick For Chef’s Executive Chef Kevan Vetter, joined forces to predict what global food trends will influence your food choices for years to come.

We’ll have to track these back but so far Kevan’s crystal ball has been ever so accurate, especially on things like Chipotle and Cocktail-Inspired Meals.

I must admit that some of the ingredients were not easy to find – even in Chicago- but there are numerous internet markets now where you can purchase just about anything. You will however not have half the fun that I did looking for some of the items like Korean Pepper Paste and Red Tea.

It was an outing in the snow and cold to find Korean Pepper Paste only to find it later that same day in my own back yard (Fresh Market – Lake Forest). But the trip to Argyle renewed some of my old connections with the best Asian markets in the city so the trek was well worth fighting the elements to find it.

I love sourcing ingredients because it’s always an adventure. More often than not, I finish the day with a mixed bag of new and interesting friends and an education that I could not have possibly learned in a book or the classroom.

When I looked at the list this year, the combinations are surprising. Who would ever pair red pepper and grapefruit but when I tried it, I loved the exciting turn of flavor.

These pairings were well worth the wait and here are the groupings for 2012.

Cumin with Sofrito

Authentic Hispanic Foundational Flavors

Did you know that Cumin is the second most popular spice in the world after black pepper? Even that surprised me.

Sofrito? Sofrito is a combination of ingredients which have been cut in very small pieces and slowly sauteed in cooking oil or bacon grease for 30 minutes.

People enjoy green sofrito but I prefer mine tomato based. What I really love about Sofrito is that it is made with only the freshest ingredients. Mainly onions, garlic, and green bell peppers… similar combinations of vegetables are known as the holy trinity in Creole cooking, refogado in Portuguese, soffritto in Italian, suppengrün (soup greens) in Germany and włoszczyzna in Poland.

No matter what you call it, it is the source of all flavor for many dishes and cumin adds an interesting mix to the pot.

Korean Pepper Paste with Sesame, Asian Pear and Garlic

BBQ With A Global Twist

Korean Pepper Paste?

Gochujang : a flavorful and pungent fermented Korean flavoring made from red chili, rice, fermented soybeans and salt.

Exploring this flavor combination is going to be fascinating particularly when it comes to firing up the BBQ.

Stay tuned for a lot of wonderful recipes from this match. One of my favorites.

Dill with Mint, Melon and Cucumber

The Ultimate Refresher

I’ve never been a huge fan of dill but balancing it with mint, melon and cucumber, well… this combination becomes the ultimate refresher for sure.

Even a small pile of melon and cucumber topped with these two spices was a clean approach to the start of any meal.

The possibilities are endless and don’t think this is just a summer union. A lot more markets are bringing in these celebrated ingredients… even in the middle of winter.

Meyers Lemon with Lemon Thyme, Limoncello and Lemon Peel

The Ultimate Lemon

Pucker up because all of you who love lemon well… this is your pairing.

I never thought about bringing in so many lemon flavors at once but I am now an aficionado of all things lemon.

ING’s restaurant inspired me to try the honey nut cheerios infused rum with these ingredients so look for the result on my blog in the next few weeks.

Eggplant With Honey and Harissa

Worldly Veggie With Sweet Heat

I didn’t have a clue what Harissa was before these pairings were published.

Since Mourad Lahlou is one of my favorite Moroccan chefs it is fascinating to see what he does with Harissa. Beef cheeks with Carrot Jam and a Harissa emulsion. Dungeness crab roasted in Meyer Lemon Harissa Butter. Harissa is now ever-present on Moroccan tables, almost like ketchup.

Stay tuned because I really loved the well-balanced pairing of Harissa and Honey.

Squash With Red Curry and Pancetta

Versatile Veggie With A Touch Of Thai

Mention Pancetta and I get excited. I use to think that bacon made everything taste better until I tried Pancetta.

This combination of squash (which I have never particularly loved) and Red Curry (which has also not been one of my favorites) has made me a believer in the power of Pancetta.

Ginger and Coconut

Warm Spice Joins Tropical Favorite

No surprise that the flavors I loved when I lived in Hawaii made the list.

I am such a fan of ginger in fact, consumed as a delicacy, medicine and spice that I grate it on just about everything…including sorbet.

Vanilla With Butter

Pure Essentials For Real Goodness

OK – so now we get down to the basics. Butter and Vanilla.

Butter is the source of everything delicious. Sorry, I believe that Julia was right… you just can’t find a substitute for butter no matter how hard you try.

Vanilla: One of Mc’Cormick’s core ingredients from day one. Who sells more vanilla than McCormick?

Together these two classics are the foundation of a lot of memorable recipes.

Doesn’t it always go back to the basics?

Red Tea With Cinnamon and Plum

Better-for-You Beverage Meets Fruit And Spice

It took me forever to find red tea. Only logical that instead of looking at the grocery, I would find it at Argo Tea, who sold it to me by the ounce.

Did you know that red tea is really black tea, made from the completely oxidized bud leaves of Camellia sinensis?

Better ask the tea specialist at Argo because there are so many varieties out there now you need an expert to keep up with an ever changing marketplace.

Have to admit that the combination of the red tea with the Cinnamon (Saigon of course) and Plum had me dreaming up what I could do next with one of the most interesting groupings on the list.

I also love the winter plums I found in the market…beautiful, deep, dark red and so delicious.

Grapefruit With Red Pepper

A New Take On Lemon Pepper

Ok – so this was easy but Red Pepper and Grapefruit?

I didn’t think I would like the idea but once I took a bite, it was so easy to jump into these flavors.

This pairing will produce a lot of inspiring combinations including a non-stop assortment of salads.

Sweet Soy With Tamarind and Black Pepper

Steak Sauce With An Asian Flavor

These are my ingredients. From steak sauce to marinates and used in a variety of cuisines, Tamarind is also great for medicinal purposes and I would be one to favor a little black pepper to do the trick.

Like celery, onion and green pepper is to New Orleans cooking, these three are the holy trinity of BBQ.

Blueberry With Cardamom and Corn Masa

From Everyday to Extraordinary

OK – so I existed on Corn Masa for years when I lived in Mexico.

Corn Masa, which is a staple ingredient in Latin American foods such as corn tortillas and tamales, is also a essential ingredient in the new American kitchen.

Tell me that Corn Masa Pancakes with Blueberries and Cardamom isn’t a breakfast that gets you thinking about what else to do with these ingredients?

Bon Appetit and look for recipes with these great pairings in the months ahead.

ING: The Culinary Physics of Honey Nut Cheerios

ING (imagining new gastronomy), the brainchild of Chef Homaro Cantu, unites Asian comfort with the genius of a “to the right” molecular gastronomy. No matter what you call it, the focus is presentation. The results: Alchemy… pure and simple. 
 

The 2006 Iron Chef winner, Cantu makes use of both liquid nitrogen and lasers to construct his dishes. What amazed me the most was that his printed food strip -edible paper- helps chemotherapy patients taste again.

My father was an inventor so it was no revelation that Cantu holds six patents with 16 or more pending.

What do I love about inventors? They are the ultimate risk takers.

On a quick tour of the kitchen, I was amazed at how small it was. One of the chefs joked that he had to document -on his resume- that he was skinny enough to cook there. That surprised me too. Not an “over fed” chef in the bunch. It was either the recently placed pool table to the south of the kitchen for exercise or a recurrent dose  of liquid nitrogen. 

The 6 course menu was launched on an oragami cube. My first clue that something unusual was about to happen. Separating the cube was almost as complex as the dinner. You had to do both slowly and methodically in order for the magic to break free.

So, let’s get back to the Culinary Physics of Honey Nut Cheerios?

Yes, this General Mills cereal is not just for breakfast anymore. The combination of the rum, honey, lemon and frangelico was stunning. In fact, every wine, beer and drink selection was so skillfully paired it was an essential part of the entire food experience.

So what is the secret of the rum? Mix a cup of Honey Nut Cheerios with 12 ounces of rum. Infuse overnight. Strain. Simple as that.

My favorite food? A cheese ball with triple cream, fruit cake cracker (a fruit cake with Gran Marnier and dehydrated) in a mulled wine reduction.

Salud to the chef who made a mind-boggling chain of sweet potatoes and then smothered it in vanilla parsnip, balsamic, truffle and hazelnut.

My least favorite dish: The Turducken was like a slice of deli meat but the crispy fried brussel sprouts…they were amazing.

The wines – the German Rebenhof, Urziger Wurzgarten, Riesling Kabinett Mosel 2009, the Picket Fence Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2009 and the Italian Colterenzio Gewurtztraminer, alto-Adige 2010 were magnificent as was a surprising Anderson Valley Brewing Company Winter Solstice ale that was paired with a Baozi venison, caramelized onions, carrot and cherry.

We also experienced several rounds of Cantu’s famous miracle berries -- a West African fruit that trips up your taste buds by blocking bitter and sour tastes. When you eat one, it makes everything sour taste sweet and for me, who loves sweet, this was the ultimate encounter.

I don’t often describe service as flawless but ING’s was. All of the waiters were well-informed and no matter how many questions I threw out at them, there wasn’t one who could not deliver an immediate answer. Impressive! The service component is as essential to the complete experience as the food and drink so how lucky we were to be having the best of all three. And the price point? $75 a head was a bargain for the unbelievable quality and quantity of food.

If I had my choice of Chicago restaurants for the overall experience, ING’s would be it.

Bon Appetit and check out the Valentine’s Day special.

Now, if only I could find a valentine.

Prairie Joe's

At 1921 Central Street in Evanston, this unassuming café, which has been around for years (and renamed) is not about the food (fairly average – not a great breakfast but not a bad one either) and all about the embellishments.

From the funky art, the thrift store finds, and a real mixed bag of attic treasures—this place grew to be a 50’s diner with the skill of owner, artist and former antique camera collector Prairie Joe.

Go for a look and a cup of coffee. It’s indisputably a joint that’s always full of locals trying to catch up on the politics of the neighborhood.

Bon Appetit!

A Passion for Puffy Tacos

Puffy Tacos are a specialty on San Antonio’s menus.

Another San Antonio invention, like the breakfast taco, they are a permanent part of timeless Tex-Mex cuisine.

Owner of San Antonio restaurant’s La Hacienda and Los Barrios, Diana Barrios Trevino cooked them at the White House back in 2010. Here is Diana’s original recipe for the puffy shells:

Puffy Taco Shell Recipe

Makes 12-15 tacos

3 cups corn masa mix

1 ½ teaspoons salt
2 ¼ cups warm water
Vegetable oil for frying

Combine the masa mix, salt and warm water in a large bowl and mix until a smooth dough forms. Pull off pieces of dough and roll them into balls about the size of Ping-Pong ball.

Cut a quart-size re-sealable plastic bag open down both sides, to form a rectangle.

Use the bag to line a tortilla press as you shape the tortillas, so they do not stick: Lay one side of the plastic over the bottom of the press, place a ball of dough in the center, and fold the other side of the plastic over the dough. Shut the top of the tortilla press firmly down on the dough to shape the tortilla.

Meanwhile, pour 2 inches of vegetable oil into large deep pot and heat to 250 degrees.

Drop a tortilla into the hot oil and, using a metal spatula; repeatedly douse the tortilla with the hot oil until it begins to puff up.

Flip it over and, using the spatula, make an indentation in the center of the tortilla to form a taco shape. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Repeat with the remaining tortillas.

Fill each taco with your favorite fillings.

This recipe is Saveur’s take on the puffy tacos that are served at Rolando’s Super Tacos in San Antonio. For over 24 years, this tiny place has cranked out some of the biggest and best Mexican bites. I ate there 16 years ago and the food continues to have a very enthusiastic following.

Changes: I didn’t mash the avocado but diced it instead. I also made a miniature version to serve as an appetizer rather than an entrée.

Bon Appetit!

¼ cup olive oil
2½ lb. bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
1 rib celery, finely chopped
1 small carrot, finely chopped
1 small red bell pepper, finely chopped
3 cups chicken stock
1 14-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes in juice, crushed by hand
2 avocados, pitted, peeled, and mashed
2 cloves garlic, minced

Juice of 1 lime

Canola oil, for frying
3 cups masa harina
1½ tbsp. unsalted butter, softened

Shredded iceberg lettuce, diced tomato, and shredded cheddar cheese, to garnish

Heat oil in an 8-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat. Season chicken with salt and pepper, and add to pan, skin side down; cook, turning once, until browned on both sides, about 8 minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate; set aside. Add garlic, onion, celery, carrot, and bell pepper; cook, stirring, until soft, about 20 minutes. Add stock and tomatoes, and return chicken to pan; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; cook until chicken is very tender, about 1½ hours. Remove chicken from sauce, and let cool; reserve sauce for another use. Discard skin and bones, and shred chicken; set aside. Meanwhile, combine avocados, garlic, lime juice, and salt and pepper in a bowl; chill guacamole until ready to use, covering to avoid browning.

Pour oil to a depth of 2″ in a 6-qt. Dutch oven and heat over medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer reads 375°. Stir together masa, butter, and 214 cups warm water in a bowl until dough forms; divide dough into 12 pieces and shape each piece into a ball. Using a tortilla press or rolling pin, flatten each ball into a 6½″ disk. Place 1 disk in oil. When it begins to puff, press the end of a metal spatula into the middle of the tortilla so that tortilla bends into a taco shape; hold spatula within tortilla until taco is golden brown and crisp, about 1½ minutes. Transfer taco to paper towels to drain; repeat with remaining tortillas. Divide chicken and guacamole among tacos; top with lettuce, tomato, and cheese.

Afterthought: With the leftover chicken, I made Eggs Benedict for breakfast the next morning. So good with the biscuits and a beautiful green heirloom tomato I was surprised to find at the Fresh market yesterday.